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SANITY 4 and 5.1
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  • @TraumManufaktur The screen grab looks nice. The light was tough for the skin color.

  • @peternap Raw, untreated, was probably Iso 800. Later, with less light, I get more noise & grain. Had to turn on AutoIso, but it holds up. Do you have tips for this one? Thinking GhrainKiller on Blue Channel, and a Gradient/Powermask crush of the bottom half of the picture. PS: The FD 85mm 1.8 gave pretty hefty CA wide open. Edit: Did a mask crush and blur in Powergrade inside FCP X. Does that sell the image?

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  • @Ralph_B When I tried to play the file back in camera it says Error.

    While I was shooting I noticed that when I panned in this scene I could see an insane amount of Aliasing on the camera's lcd screen. Looks like something got messed up and don't know what? I am using a Lexar Professional fast card so I don't know?

    But Yes the problem was like this while recording. I am going to use another SDHC card as I have a shoot today and don;t have time to test Send a Blessing my way........ I will be back this evening

  • It looks like it's coming apart in the computer to me too.

  • @FilmingArt

    Are you 100% sure this breaking up is present on the original MTS file? This is the first thing to check. Do you still have the file on the SD card? If so, try playing it back in the camera.

  • @Ralph_B

    I have a serious problem, for the first time I have seen this video footage breaking up in the scene. This was using the Panasonic 12-35mm lens around f/5.6 iso 160 with a high shutter speed of 320 I believe

    Please Help!!!!

  • @TraumManufaktur That is a really interesting Screen Grab. Did you do any noise reduction?

  • @FilmingArt

    Sanity does not alter the film modes/color profiles in any way. It's an extremely accurate rendering of what the camera is putting out. So, just play with the different profiles and settings until you find something you like.

  • @FilmingArt I shoot nearly everything in standard -2 but with Sanity I turn the saturation up a tick or two.

  • Shot in almost no light today, two purple spots. Thank you @Ralph_B. Donated a few bucks. Canon FD 50 1.4 SSC stepped down to 2.0, Smooth

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  • @Ralph_B

    I am using Sanity 5 hack + Smooth profile and noticed the blacks are crushed just a little more than normal. Would this be the Hack or the color profile?

    I'm just really looking for a normal neutral profile which I can spice up a but in my editing software. I really do not like to shoot super flat or saturated


  • @Ralph_B

    thx, the rokkor 58mm 1.4 steped down to f 11 the anamorphic rectimascop up front i put on 30 m... real distance to the boats was about 15 m ... setting: dynamic +2,0,-1+2

  • @tomson8877

    Very nice. Which lens did you use to shoot the shots of the cargo boats? It's really sharp.

  • Sanity 5 test with rokkor 58 f1.4, vivitar 70 210 f2.8 4.0 and rectimascop 48/2

  • @Daniel_R It is hard to know what is going wrong in these images because it looks like everything is going wrong with them. These images are very underexposed which some people think is the worst thing you can do when recording GH2 footage. Your snapshots are showing posterisation, interlace artifacts and pretty coarse grain in the low luma range of the image.

    The problem for me with making any judgements about patches, modes or settings based on your images is that the problem might stem from the player you are taking snapshots with. If you are using VLC for example it might be that the deinterlacing settings in VLC are causing the artifacts in your PNG files. VLC might not be deinterlacing your footage properly before you take the snapshot. It is hard to say which is why I am trying to think of way to analyse footage more robustly.

    All I know is that if these images truly represent the footage it would be very hard to bring those shadows up in post without it looking really bad. Next time you shoot in the dark you could try a much higher ISO and expose to the right - clipping a little bit of the sky might be worth it.

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  • @paulo Voigtlander 25mm f.95, Voigtlander 58mm f1.4. Standard -2, -2, -1, -2

  • OK Ralph and thepalalias! You help me so much! I think now I'm ready to set my gh2 and keep my target! And also hack it with Sanity 5 and work! I wish all you the best, Paulo Leão - from Brazil.

  • @Paulo Brilliance (in post-production software) is normally a modified saturation control. The manual for the Panasonic FZ-150 (as one example) states that it controls saturation and brightness. In other words, you would get similar control by modifying the saturation, exposure and contrast together - it is not a one parameter function. Saturation is the biggest part of it, though.

    You have to choose what you want the most in terms of what you are shooting for. When a colorist friend shot some DSC color charts with the different picture profiles, Standard and Vibrant required the least adjustment to get back to the original colors. So if you want more accurate colors without a lot of post, those are good to start with. If you want to saturate your colors a lot without doing post, use Vibrant. If you want more dynamic range, use Standard instead.

    Try shooting the same clip with different saturation settings (noting which ones you used) and seeing what you like best.

    The differences in the way the different settings handle color is typically not as dramatic as adjust a "brilliance" control in either post software or on camera, so I would not worry too much about that side of it. I have no strong feelings one way or the other about Sanity as it relates to color. I will mention that it has an easier time with blue than CM Night (which is a much more specialized setting).

  • MattRobertson7, please wich lenses and settings are you using? Very good. Thanks.

  • Ralph, I'm shure it will works very well. I will use your settings. Any tip for increase brilliance, too? You are helpping me a lot. Thanks again. Next week I'll post some videos before and after Sanity 5.

  • Shot this with sanity the other day! No complaints.

  • Paulo, try these settings for enhanced colors. NATURE for mildly enhanced, and VIBRANT for strongly enhanced.

    NATURE Contrast -2, Sharpness -2 (or 0), Saturation +2, Noise Reduction -2

    VIBRANT Contrast -2, Sharpness -2 (or 0), Saturation 0, Noise Reduction -2

  • OK, thepalalias. I am happy I'll try Sanity 5. But untill I not test it, say please if I can get more brilliance images adjusting the GH2 settings (because there we only have 'contrast', and not 'brilliance' to set...). My old camera panasonic had this control and it was so easy. And at the least: in your opinion, how sanity 5 works to capture the colors of nature as blues, reds, etc and not only greens, browns and yellows? Thank you very much!

  • @paulo I use both the GH1 and GH2 and I disagree. I prefer the colors on the GH2, but to each their own.

    Sanity 5 should serve you well - I shot a commercial with it earlier this year. There are settings that can exceed the detail, but the return on investment for the bitrate in SH mode is quite good.

    Here are comparisons of an I-frame in both Sanity 5 and the stock Firmware 1.1 (except unlocked ISO with hack), shot at ISO 12,800. Then a comparison of the same with a P-frame.

    Other than being high ISO and a bit underexposed, the seen is rather undemanding for a long GOP setting - not a lot of detail and a static shot, etc.

    The images are PNGs so there are no additional compression artifacts.

    EDIT: Just read your additional question. This has to do with the combination of the way you shoot (lighting, exposure, etc.) and the way you grade (no matter whether you Magic Bullet or Colorista or Resolve or something else) much more than to do with the camera, at least at this level.

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  • Sorry, nether I have a gh1. I just feel this watching videos on vimeo and youtube. I would like more light, more brilliance in my shots with gh2. Any settings sugestion? You are experient with these cameras and I'm a little cinegraphist. Thanks a lot and congratulations to your work!