@thepalalias see images above

@rajamalik Youre going to have to experiment a bit more with shutter to help improve situation if anything - can't fault other things like ISO (though try divisibles of 200 - eg - 200, 400, 800, 1600 to see if it helps improve things).

However, you sound alarmed about moire as though 'moon' Trial 5 is responsible. NOT SO. That moire pattern for that scene probably happens on EVERY single setting there is for a GH2. The GH2 is NOT devoid of moire. Nor is the GH3. Moire is more often pertaining to the sensor. For a busy scene like that perhaps change the shirt/shift the angle until moire is less apparent.

In your situation, where the scene is in bright daylight I would also be prepared to experiment with filters first and foremost.

@driftwood @rajamalik I haven't tested with Moon 5 with the 14-140mm but I will try it with the 20mm later on. However, I will say that what Nick's said so far is consistent with my experience - I have not yet seen a situation in which any of Nick's intra settings caused moire issues. I will specifically target that area in my next round of testing but I would be very surprised if there were any new issues with the most recent settings.

On the other hand, the Panasonic electronic lenses are often much more prone to moire than non-electronic manual focus ones. The simplest solution is typically to swap lenses.

Here is a list of options that can help at the time of shooting regarding moire.

1) Moire is typically connected not only to the content of the scene, but also to contrast and sharpness. Electronic lenses are even more susceptible because additional processing is performed on the scene in camera before the image is encoded to video.

2) Whether you are shooting with an electronic lens or one without electronic connection to the camera, be aware that the less sharp/contrasty the edges coming into the camera are, the less likely you are to have a moire problem. By switching to a less sharp aperture (typically the very shallowest or deepest DOF options on the lens) you can usually reduce the problem, even without filters on hand.

3) There are many filters available that can reduce contrast. I find that the Tiffen series can be helpful for this (they offer Ultra Contrast, Low Contrast, Black ProMist, etc.) My favorite for the purpose is Black ProMist and they offer several strengths (1,3,5 etc.) to control the level of the effect (although I normally use the Warm Black ProMist 1 but that will change color vs. your other footage while the other will not). If this works, then you can keep using the same lens and aperture. My very strong advice is to get filters larger than the lens thread and use a step-down adapter. This drastically reduces any issues with vignetting. I normally use 77mm filters with a step-down ring.

4) Changing the contents of the scene will obviously allow you to fix things before they ever get into the camera. See if you can reduce or eliminate high-contrast geometric patterns.

Hopefully between these four options there will be at least one that can help your shoot. I am afraid I do not know any way to fix it in post if the effect is dramatic. If it's subtle, blurring can help.

Update: If you want to get a sense for the overall sharpness of the Panasonic LUMIX G VARIO HD 14-140mm F4.0-5.8 ASPH. MEGA O.I.S. at different apertures, here are some links that quickly show it in stills. As you can see the sharpness reduces more due to diffraction at narrow apertures than it does due to any lens design issues at wide open apertures.

14mm http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/panasonic_lumix_g_vario_14_140mm_f4_58_asph_mega_ois_review/sharpness_1/ 70mm http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/panasonic_lumix_g_vario_14_140mm_f4_58_asph_mega_ois_review/sharpness_2/ 140mm http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/panasonic_lumix_g_vario_14_140mm_f4_58_asph_mega_ois_review/sharpness_3/

This camera works best with manual lenses.This is my opinion.

@rajamalik

Meanwhile i'm pretty shure that you're your own problem. It really sucks!

@rajamalik, You pointed the camera at a intricate brick like floor and some guy with crazy ass patterns all over every inch of his clothing. It's only common sense man.

@uninexus what errors do you get? And is Moon causing those or are other factors at play? I am using older Driftwood patches and have no such problems (Sedna, IntraVenus).

*** NEW **** Mix 'n' Grade GH2 with your GH3

Here's Driftwood Cluster X 'Slipstream 3' - this is the all new mix of Cluster X 'moon' settings (plus Spizz/Nebula/DREWnet style GOPs for other REC modes) for the GH2 - PATCHED with the Panasonic's GH3 matrix so you can grade much closer between cameras.

Inside the zip you will see install instructions.

@uninexus @driftwood And when I don't use Clipwrap? I prefer to ingest in Final Cut Pro X. Is that possible with Moon or will it result in errors?

@sohus The reason I use clipwrap is to ingest into Final Cut Pro X without errors. Here is the thread that describes the issues people are having with timecode: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/113321 As you well know Final Cut Pro does not ingest the .mts files directly. It will import them when presented with an entire AVCHD folder structure on camera or card or if you have copied the folders to your local storage. Clipwrap allows you to re-wrap the .mts files without transcoding and have them archived and available for easy ingestion into FCPX.

@driftwood: cheers for your reply! I will try it out, so far moon trial 3 is still my fav though! Thank you very much!

I don't want to sound rude but Hey, we are working on Cluster X series on this tread and why on earth you people keep posting videos with old settings. BTW testing Slipstream 3, looks like a good combination. need more time to test.