Driftwood Quantum X Settings, Series 1: v3b Rocket - v4b Orion - v5 β Pictoris

ShoMo

@mozes , how do you mean trickmode/failsafe? Thanks!

Just tried to reinstall the Orion, same thing, got even down to 18.000 kb/s on ISO 800 with moving objects... something is really wrong =/.. Any help is really appreciated!

MichelleLane

@stanleymanly2 great examples! What did you use for the color grading?

mozes

@Slomo .. failsafe? (trickmode kickt in?)

JDN

ORION in ETC mode. Thanks NICK!

Back to the everglades....

ShoMo

We're testing out v4 Orion. 25p HBR works as it should, and so did the 720 50p the first couple of times. Tried to record some more 720p on the same card, but the footage has an averege bitrate of 19.252 kb/s... The Orion should be CBR (it worked the first time giving us an averege bitrate of 52.000 kb/s but it has suddenly dropped!

Any ideas what is going on?

stanlymanly2

hey guys. In case you guys were wondering what some of the shots in my videos originally looked like before grading, heres a short reel i made only with the gh2 footage I have. The first shots are with the Orion patch, the later bits are from a earlier video using Aquamotion 2. Just use the video to see how far you can push the colors. I was able to push the Orion footage very very far with Color. So without further delay:

driftwood

@GH2_fan Its on hold until further notice. We need to discover a few things more and that includes looking deeper into the code of the firmware... new developments happen all the time with VK's incredible work.

GH2_fan

@driftwood, may I ask, whatever happened to Quantum X AVCHD-I 100/50 ???

jamesgh2

@driftwood,

Quantum X v5c 'ß Pictoris' CBR 3/1/12 12:40PM (sete) on Sandisk 32GB 30MB/sec Early test

No hangs and so far rock solid performance on SH 720 at high shutter 1/1000, HBR, 24H and 24L. Will test some more over the weekend.

I do see some banding in white walls but that could also be the same on all the other hacks. I'll torture the camera and see what I can find.

Thank you for your hard work!

grendelX

Driftwood Quantum X (v4 Orion) CBR

Tested on SanDisk Extreme Pro 8 gb, 16 gb & 64 gb. Spanned on all but files not viewable after span. Still frames below shot with PanaLeica 25mm & Voigtlander 40mm at ISO 160. Film modes cinema, nostalgic, smooth and smooth bw with sharpness adjustments at -2, 0 & +2. Focus point flashing road work sign.

Thought it would be cool to see comparison between digital lens (PanaLeica) and one designed for film. PanaLeica was shot with continuous focus while Voigtlander was manual. PanaLeica very sharp lens. Hope to test more film lens soon.

I'm new to testing so let me know if I've missed any details..

jhero

@Kholi In FCP, go to your Sequence Settings, in the 'QuickTime Video Settings' little box click Advanced, in the Compressor box change Gamma Correction to 'none', Ok

Let me know!

Chhatrapal

Orion v4b

Card Sandisk 32 GB 30MB/s

Canon FD 50mm 1.4 @2.8

ISO 160

FIlm mode Smooth -2*4

24H-2.24 mins, played back in the camera

24H-Real world around 3.54 mins, one clip played back in the camera another didn't

24L- spanned 8 mins- two clips on the card

24L-Ex+80%- stopped automatically around 7 mins- moderate panning around 6 mins

HBR/25p-Hanged

720p60-SH spanned-two clips- 7 mins

720p60-SH-Extele-two clips-7mins

First time 60p spanned on my Sandisk 32 GB 30MB/s

60i-FSH- 1min- card writing eror

60i-FH-2.20min-Card writing error

Reckless

I am still waiting for my sandisk card to return so at the moment I can't do any real thorough testing but here is a screen shot from some sky banding test footage I did. Driftwood Hybrid Matrix loaded into Quantum X V4 Orion, Smooth -2,0,0,-2, transcoded with 5DtoRGB Pro-res 422(HQ) no flattening, no color correction. Looks pretty damn clear, if you look really hard there is perhaps some light signs of banding but it looks smooth in motion.

*Update, with color correction the banding becomes more visible unfortunately. I also forgot to mention this is in EXTele so that probably adds too it.

rockroadpix

@Bwhitz - Yep, I totally second the "vintage" glass suggestion. Both of my Nikkors (50, 105mm) are pre dig. Love the look of them.

Buuut, let's stay on topic... I plan on shooting an actual person on Monday. Can't wait to see the results of Pictoris v5 (D, perhaps Nicholas?) :D

kholi

Shoot got pushed AND I accidentally ordered the wrong lens. No 20/1.8 to play with this weekend. So sad. xD

First World Problems

Cinema +2 -2 0 -2 Canon 28/1.8@1.8 and then Sigma 28/1.8@1.8+Diff+ND (Wish I had the Sigma 20/1.8 right now!) Orion V4 ISO 640 (might've been 800) and 200 (for the chain) Can't stand how much contrast FCP export adds. Difference is drastic (see JPG version for reference)

Guess I'll has to find something else to shoot this weekend.

bullet2

What causes the shift in view when I hit record? It looks like the picture darkens. I assumed I could get a wysiwyg display. I also notice a slight shift to green sometimes. Both situations are more notable when the scene is a dark one.

Alex

did some extreme in-camera cross process style white balance. This was not only for the look but also to see how the greens are cleaning up noise for a ISO 3200 recording.

Orion v4b was used. The cleanest HQ patch setting to date. Thanks Mr. Driftwood!

cinemon

@driftwood one fast question, the -2 sharpness in quantum 9b is like what sharpness in orion? 0 or +2? thx again ;)

RRRR

@driftwood Ok! Cheers! No need to worry then.. :) I'll just grab some backup settings for the sake of it. Orion worked really well last night on a shoot. BW profile, high iso. No problems whatsoever!

driftwood

@RRRR Its inherent to the GH2. Even the stock settings show red banding. We're doing our damndest to try and sort this but without picture profile recoding we're left only with the matrix to adapt...

proaudio4

@JPB1138 Well spoken. There definately is a fine line betweem having good detailed contrast over the crushed video look.

JPB1138

@Oedipax "You're basically trying to ride the line between not enough contrast to look good but not too much that it starts looking overly punchy."

I find this to be the key to the film look. Bring in flat as you can without losing any quality, and then only adding contrast til something in the image hits that '0' black line. Really lets you dig into shadows but keep something black in the image, so that it isnt a wash of gray.

Oedipax

@cinemon, try opening up your image in an NLE or Photoshop and turning on the scopes. Check out how the luma values are distributed along the curve, and pay attention to color balance/skintones and overall saturation levels. I find doing this with images I like gives me some insight at the grading level of what's being done.

As far as the camera, I would -2 everything and shoot with old manual primes using Orion at 24H (the gold standard in my opinion). Then transcode with 5DtoRGB for maximum latitude in the shadows + more flatness. You're basically trying to ride the line between not enough contrast to look good but not too much that it starts looking overly punchy.

I find myself going towards this look quite often as well. I'm quite tired of the overly-graded sledgehammer look that a lot of videos have been using the past several years.

proaudio4

True, I forgot about the 25mm 1.4.

Good suggestions @bwhitz

bwhitz

Yea, the 20mm 1.7 is probably the nicest looking panny lens. Still quite contrasty though. Try bumping up the blacks a bit, then lower the mid-tones again. I find this really helps smooth out the image... especially skin tones. Also, older vintage lenses from the pre-digital era (Nikkor, Canon FD) seem to have a nice lower contrast to them that really helps with the GH2 or any DSLR. I just found some old german pentax mount glass and it looks really awesome... much better at rendering flatter blacks.

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