@peternap Raw, untreated, was probably Iso 800. Later, with less light, I get more noise & grain. Had to turn on AutoIso, but it holds up. Do you have tips for this one? Thinking GhrainKiller on Blue Channel, and a Gradient/Powermask crush of the bottom half of the picture. PS: The FD 85mm 1.8 gave pretty hefty CA wide open. Edit: Did a mask crush and blur in Powergrade inside FCP X. Does that sell the image?

It looks like it's coming apart in the computer to me too.

@Ralph_B

I have a serious problem, for the first time I have seen this video footage breaking up in the scene. This was using the Panasonic 12-35mm lens around f/5.6 iso 160 with a high shutter speed of 320 I believe

Please Help!!!!

@FilmingArt

Sanity does not alter the film modes/color profiles in any way. It's an extremely accurate rendering of what the camera is putting out. So, just play with the different profiles and settings until you find something you like.

Shot in almost no light today, two purple spots. Thank you @Ralph_B. Donated a few bucks. Canon FD 50 1.4 SSC stepped down to 2.0, Smooth

@Ralph_B

thx, the rokkor 58mm 1.4 steped down to f 11 the anamorphic rectimascop up front i put on 30 m... real distance to the boats was about 15 m ... setting: dynamic +2,0,-1+2

Sanity 5 test with rokkor 58 f1.4, vivitar 70 210 f2.8 4.0 and rectimascop 48/2

@paulo Voigtlander 25mm f.95, Voigtlander 58mm f1.4. Standard -2, -2, -1, -2

@Paulo Brilliance (in post-production software) is normally a modified saturation control. The manual for the Panasonic FZ-150 (as one example) states that it controls saturation and brightness. In other words, you would get similar control by modifying the saturation, exposure and contrast together - it is not a one parameter function. Saturation is the biggest part of it, though.

You have to choose what you want the most in terms of what you are shooting for. When a colorist friend shot some DSC color charts with the different picture profiles, Standard and Vibrant required the least adjustment to get back to the original colors. So if you want more accurate colors without a lot of post, those are good to start with. If you want to saturate your colors a lot without doing post, use Vibrant. If you want more dynamic range, use Standard instead.

Try shooting the same clip with different saturation settings (noting which ones you used) and seeing what you like best.

The differences in the way the different settings handle color is typically not as dramatic as adjust a "brilliance" control in either post software or on camera, so I would not worry too much about that side of it. I have no strong feelings one way or the other about Sanity as it relates to color. I will mention that it has an easier time with blue than CM Night (which is a much more specialized setting).

Ralph, I'm shure it will works very well. I will use your settings. Any tip for increase brilliance, too? You are helpping me a lot. Thanks again. Next week I'll post some videos before and after Sanity 5.

Paulo, try these settings for enhanced colors. NATURE for mildly enhanced, and VIBRANT for strongly enhanced.

NATURE Contrast -2, Sharpness -2 (or 0), Saturation +2, Noise Reduction -2

VIBRANT Contrast -2, Sharpness -2 (or 0), Saturation 0, Noise Reduction -2

@paulo I use both the GH1 and GH2 and I disagree. I prefer the colors on the GH2, but to each their own.

Sanity 5 should serve you well - I shot a commercial with it earlier this year. There are settings that can exceed the detail, but the return on investment for the bitrate in SH mode is quite good.

Here are comparisons of an I-frame in both Sanity 5 and the stock Firmware 1.1 (except unlocked ISO with hack), shot at ISO 12,800. Then a comparison of the same with a P-frame.

Other than being high ISO and a bit underexposed, the seen is rather undemanding for a long GOP setting - not a lot of detail and a static shot, etc.

The images are PNGs so there are no additional compression artifacts.

EDIT: Just read your additional question. This has to do with the combination of the way you shoot (lighting, exposure, etc.) and the way you grade (no matter whether you Magic Bullet or Colorista or Resolve or something else) much more than to do with the camera, at least at this level.