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Cheap 27" 2560x1440 monitors based on S-IPS panels
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  • @qwerty123

    d-sub means vga connector.

    All you really need is DVI :-)

    As for other thing, it is better to ask sellers.

  • Also, what in the world does "d-sub" mean for some of these Shimian monitors?

  • @DrDave (and others?) apart from the inbuilt speakers what is the difference between:

    1. the Shimian monitor Vitaliy has linked to at the start of this thread
    2. Catleap Q270 SE

    I also noticed a Catleap Q270 SEi ... I guess the "i" means that there is a lower standard for dead pixels, which means the lower cost?

    Also, how does one tell if a Catleap (or any other monitor) is "glass" version that you (@DrDave) reported being happy you didn't get?

  • Have had zero issues on my Catleap, by "waking from sleeping" is one of those things controlled by the computer. Sound like a USB issue, whether the USB connection is powered down when sleeping.

  • Has anyone had a problem with these (acheiva shimian) waking up from computer sleeping with a snowy screen? desktop display is there, but whole screen is snowy. only after computer sleeps then wakes, and is corrected by unplugging minidisplay connection. I am using with a macbook pro (2009) via (usb) powered minidisplay port to dual link DVI adapter...

  • @Vitaliy_Kiselev Yeah, I'm talking to the seller. They are dragging their heals.

    @DrDave Good advice, I will pick some up to have around in the future.

    Update: The seller compensated me $50 for my trouble.

  • How about just ask seller for replacement. I mean specific board that makes noise?

  • For those DIYers who don't want to buy electrical grade silicon, you can use GE II in a pinch. It has much less acid, and the acid is gone after a day or so. I would not plop it on my mics, but for everything else it is a reasonable substitute. Many epoxy types are used in high temp industrial work, so it isn't a bad choice at all, just not flexible. Don't use ones that have a lot of metal in them. I use silicon to dampen the shells of microphones, and on anything that buzzes.

  • @DrDave Yeah, I was skeptical, but I had some epoxy plastic bonder in the house and said F it. Electrical grade silicon was not as accessible :-P

    @tonalt Hot glue should probably work fine. I can't say for sure.

    Just be careful if you open it up. The Crossover has some thin cables running between the chasis and panel that could easily be damaged.

  • I guess hot glue will also do the trick.

  • I would not have used epoxy, but hey, if it works don't mess with it!

  • @DrDave Thanks for the tip. I found some more information here:

    http://www.overclock.net/t/1228062/achieva-shimian-monitor-club/20#post_16787973

    This method has mostly eliminated the noise. I have to really concentrate to hear it. Globbing epoxy on those points isn't pretty, but it helped.

  • There have been some reports of noise, AFAIK it has not been determined whether that is a brand, board or batch issue. After sifting through the reviews, I did go for the Catleap with no speakers specifically to have a better chance of a quiet monitor. Mine is silent. However, a high pitched noise is usually fixable, and some electrical grade silicon (no acid) on the coils or whatever is making the noise (probe with a rubber eraser)--if you can locate the source can reduce or eliminate it.

  • All is not well with my Crossover 27Q. It makes a high pitch noise when the screen is white. I made a recording for the eBay seller:

    Hopefully, we can work something out...

  • Yes comrade, like all good Hackintoshers I keep a cheap DVI LCD and PS2 keyboard under the desk for BIOS/OC dicking. Small price to pay for 17,000 Geekbench for under a grand.

  • @Shaveblog

    It is ok behaviour, as this monitors do not have LSI to support text and intermediate modes.
    They are made to work in native resolution.

  • i7-3770K/ATI 5870/Apple 27"/10.8.1 Hackintosher here and I can confirm that nothing shows up on my screen till OS X boots, and even then it looks like parboiled ass till I sleep then wake. If I need to diddle BIOS I must attach another DVI-ready monitor to the 5870's 2nd DVI connection.

  • There is a definite issue with these panels and 'some' GFX cards. ATI 5xxx doesn't show POST on boot, but works fine otherwise. I know, because I have one. Essentially, it's the GFX card manufacturers fault, and I'm lead to believe most cards 'released' (not produced) within the last year should have no problem with it.

  • so i have been looking at those and seen good and bad stuff

    What bad exactly? Using single link DVI cable for monitor requiring other one? :-)

    and no visual talks yet, no popper insight on color/calibrating/response time, ect

    I think that guys talked about it. Nothing very fancy here, ruitine stuff.

    Response time in kind of our of question in last years.

    Otherwise you can find gamers talking shit out of this monitors, for hundreds of pages and thousands of posts. You know, they are fun guys, you have to have too much spare time to play games in the first place.

  • so i have been looking at those and seen good and bad stuff,

    come on all these pro in here whit excellent cameras, and no visual talks yet, no popper insight on color/calibrating/response time, ect

    get on it guys we other nerds need some more info, and could be nice whit a visual experience too from forum members.

  • the bootscreen showing up is a separate issue, the panel has scaling only for special resolutions, or, if out of luck, no scaling at all so it only shows apps running at native res. so no BIOS for you.^^ My QNIX can show 640x480, 1280x720 and 2560x1440

  • My Yamakasi Catleap's working fine on my GT640 (running in a 2008 MacPro / Mountain Lion), except I don't see the boot screen, just my desktop once the computer's powered up. Display sleep works fine. I've installed the latest CUDA driver, and I think the primary display driver part is handled by the OS.

    I'd be curious if there's an extra step I'm leaving out to get the boot screen part working, but it's not really a big deal.

    Love the Catleap; zero dead pixels although I didn't order anything special (perfect-pixel, etc).

  • Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong?

    Change DVI cable, this is first suggestion :-)

  • I just got a qnix from Korea and have tried a gt210 gt440 and a gt640. All with dual link.

    I can see the boot screen and windows load screen but the monitor turns off about the time that windows should be starting up. If I plug in other regular hd monitors after start up, they are immediately recognized and work.

    Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong?

  • @fatpig Do you mean a broadcast monitor? Those serve a different function and are not the same.

    The Korean monitors are on par with the Apple Cinema displays that are used in many pro studios. With proper calibration the Apple Cinema and Korean monitors should be nearly identical because they use the same display panels.