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Panasonic GH1 - Film Mode Settings
  • 114 Replies sorted by
  • Thanks, stonebat, I did it already few days ago saving it as Custom 3, the same result. Ok, I will try as Custom 1 although I don't think this has matter...
    For those who still take cineflat image as a crappy look, just look at this:
    http://eugenia.queru.com/2011/06/05/terminus-by-solomon-chase/
    "Canon 5D MkII, and the Technicolor CineStyle picture style; which allowed for an amazing look. The Technicolor CineStyle picture style has even replaced my own ExtraFlat style, as it’s… even flatter and with more dynamic range in the shadows."
  • @producer Set all settings you need and save it as Customs setting 1. Usually Customs mode persists all my settings including film mode settings. At least it worked for me in GH1. No I don't have G2.

    Believe it or not, I like some of the comments in this thread. We all can agree to disagree, but this is good thread to keep and digest.
  • That's what I mean partially:

    So, is it about theory of shooting or something else I'm talking many times about?!?
  • @producer
    please don't take all this personally, but trust me when I say this, you'll be a happier man when you start worrying less about settings and superflat curves and more on other aspects of image-making. If you really really are so interested in superflat and want to worry, first grab some real books on color correction, forget about cheesy plugins, learn about individual controls, understand that one of the main jobs of a colorist is to spread an image, within legal levels, from 0 to 100 IRE because that's what looks best for the magority of images. Having a superflat image of a scene( that in real life contains both hot highlights and shadows) whose entire IRE is in the middle, and looking at a Luma Waveform graph reaches from let's say 20 to 80 will probably be of no use in that state. Also, unless you know very, and I mean very carefully what u are doing, for the love of God do NOT underexpose your image by 2-3 stops just to get flat. especially with 8-bit avchd camers! that's crazy, and even more so with known banding issues. If you do so, good luck lifting the shadows.
  • @Vitaliy: For contrast settings, I already posted about that:
    johnnym wrote: "All settings in film mode (nature or nostalgic) at -2 (except maybe NR, because i have a GH1 :) Then shooting underexposed, monitoring the histogram, and converting the AVCHD files with 5D2RGB.":
    Then I replied: Yes, I always use this way of settings, and adjusting the exposure 2-3 lines down gives very close result of cine flat image. BUT: when pressing the buttons for taking picture or video, the image immediately changes to its default contrast. All other settings of WB, ISO, Nostalgic mode, etc. stay unchaged, but why the contrast changes back to its default value during shooting?!? I tried in P, A, S - absolutely the same situation, even with other manual lens. And after the recording is stopped, the contrast goes back to the custom settings I've done before starting to shoot. Any ideas about how to keep the custom contrast level? Another user here mentioned about the same weird situation before my post. Maybe something in the camera settings?
  • @producer
    Again, read that people told you. I am 100% agree with them.
    As for contrast settings - I do not know that you mean.
  • Vitaliy, do you really think that I'm the one who makes it personal?!? Those useful things I read and experience since long time ago. Anyway, I strongly count on you about extending picture parameters (incl. cine flat) someday. This will definitely increase the capability of G/GF/GH.
    If MrAnthony thinks that the flat image gives crappy look, then let him answer: does he think that if the last season of "House" was shot with G/GF/GH with their standard limited image settings instead with Canon 5D Mark II the picture would be the same? Yes two different sensors and not only that, of course. But the entire season was shot with super flat image settings of the camera for further post processing. That's the only simple thing I request for my G2.
    Vitaliy, sorry to ask again: do you have any idea about the back to the default contrast during shooting? Once the shooting stops, the contrast again goes to the custom value.
  • @producer
    Stay on topic and do not make it personal, ok?
    People said good and useful things, you just need to hear them :-)
  • MrAnthony, what's wrong with you?!?!? Don't want to turn this topic into aggressive arguings by your side, but the fact that you compare crews and equipment with me and this modest camera model, speaks by itself. What magic settings, what replacing of brain?!? Which generation are you? Yes, I decided about Canon, but at the last moment I changed my mind, unfortunately. Another fact that you're so stubborn in denying something that more than half of the shooting community all around the world appreciates mostly, speaks by itself again. Your aggressive words make me curious to see something made by you and then to compare it with the "crappy look" (OMG!!!). Do you think you would be able to shoot with HVX, A1 or XDCAM? I doubt, because they all produce the "crappy look" that you hate so much, and I know your reason... ;)
  • >>I believe you've seen many documentaries, serials and motion pictures with shooting against the light, but the result is simply very different, I guarantee.

    Yes, because those people actually know what they're doing, actually understand their equipment, understand proper lighting, etc. Please read my replies again, very carefully. You are asking for settings to replace your brain. Everything you want to accomplish can be done, but YOU will have to do it. There are no magic settings. If you truly believe another camera is better, perhaps you should get it, get the patch that gives you that crappy look, and move along. I suspect your problem isn't the camera.
  • stonebat, that's what I actually asked: "Anyway, I still can't find the reason why G2 returns the contrast to its default. Once its custom set up, is ok. Then during shooting, the default contrast returns. And when the shooting is stopped, the custom contrast settings appear again. Hmm, really weird!!! "
  • @producer People don't like... ambiguous questions that have no answer. You are just spinning wheel. I had asked about film look & feel a year ago. Maybe no answer is the true answer. I don't care about film look anymore. Nobody knows :)
  • MrAnthony, this is not a movie production, this was just a walk with my family and shooting some moments. So you had to get the logic that no any reflectors or accessories would be used. Actually, I haven't taken any class of photography, but I perfectly know about avoiding shooting against the sun, bright background, etc. I've never said the camera is the problem is such a moments, but even in the successful episodes (which you've obviously missed) you can see the artificial contrast of these cameras. Whatever you do, you can't avoid it, even in post. If you try to reduce the contrast or blacks in post, then the picture becomes poor and weak, you know. And all this is generally because of the lack of superflat cine settings in the camera. I believe you've seen many documentaries, serials and motion pictures with shooting against the light, but the result is simply very different, I guarantee.
    Meanwhile, I took 550D from a friend just for some tests with new Technicolor CineStyle patch applied. Oh, your imaginary is just poor to get what huge the difference is when using this mode equivalent to the budget camcorders.
    Anyway, I still can't find the reason why G2 returns the contrast to its default. Once its custom set up, is ok. Then during shooting, the default contrast returns. And when the shooting is stopped, the custom contrast settings appear again. Hmm, really weird!!!
  • Dude, it might be easier if you understood about lighting. Essentially you're shooting against a bright background with your subjects' faces in shadow. Unless you properly light your scenes, say with a reflector, it won't matter what camera you use or what settings it's on. I couldn't even finish your video, because I was so disgusted with the lack of proper lighting. I suggest that you actually take a class on basic photography and that you pay attention to understanding lighting and balancing exposure between the natural background light and the light used to enhance the image. In this case, the problem isn't the camera.
  • Meanwhile, I made a short movie with my G2 and terrible post processing to achieve some kind of look. It could be much easier if CINE FLAT settings were possible.




    And again, as Rambo wrote, still can't get why the camera returns its contrast to default when taking picture or video. Please, buddies, try this and let us know if your cameras act the same wrong way.
  • Not sure if I understood the meaning of AFAIK and RTFM.
    All my settings IE, AE, etc. are OFF.
  • Producer, AFAIK the change in monitor brightness is just the camera switching it's view internally and it doesn't affect the exposure that is recorded by the sensor. Are you in Creative Movie Mode (top dial) and using Exposure mode M (in Menu) and is iexposure off?
  • Yes, but I really can't get why after adjusting the parameters, then when taking picture or video the camera returns its exposure from "-III" to "0". My G2 also has those custom 3 slots, so you think this is the key?!? I will try now.
  • It's not a problem, just a work flow to achieve a desired look from a particular camera. Personally i try and shoot close to what i want the final product to look like, as i shoot lots of footage regular, and it reduces editing time.

    Custom settings are savable in the custom menu, there are 3 slots available. It's in the GH1 manual.
  • So, Rambo, you experience the same problem. Any ideas how to keep the custom image settings?
  • @Ramboo

    You can also try to use technique described here
    http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/10/sharing-your-hd-videos-on-this-forum.
    if you need to share MTS files with few people fast (without Vimeo).
  • I also use smooth - everything for both kit and FD lenses but occasionally will return contrast to default for the FD lenses.

    This was Smooth - all with Canon FD 50mm f1.4 shot at f4.0 with Max Lat 100Mbps patch.

    Straight from the camera, no cc or transcoding. The original mts can be downloaded from Vimeo. This is a nice combination of lens and patch. Watch it full Screen at vimeo in 1080p HD

  • @johnnym "All settings in film mode (nature or nostalgic) at -2 (except maybe NR, because i have a GH1 :) Then shooting underexposed, monitoring the histogram, and converting the AVCHD files with 5D2RGB.":
    Yes, I always use this way of settings, and adjusting the exposure 2-3 lines down gives very close result of cine flat image. BUT: when pressing the button taking for picture or video, the image immediately changes to center exposure and becomes brighter. All other settings of WB, ISO, Nostalgic mode, etc. stay unchaged, but why the exposure changes back to center value?!? I tried in P, A, S - absolutely the same situation, even with other manual lens. Any ideas about how to keep the level of exposure as wished? Maybe something in the camera settings?
  • Well... I sorta understand what you want, but you complain too much. Just let it go.