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Driftwood Quantum X Settings, Series 1: v3b Rocket - v4b Orion - v5 β Pictoris
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  • @cinemon "whitch patch should i use to archieve this look? And what color correction was maybe done?"

    Any patch really. But for the absolute "filmiest" look... use low-GOP or all-I. Then it's about the lenses... Use Nikon or Canon glass... really anything besides the panasonic stuff (sorry, but I think the contrast/color is really bad on them)... :( Then lower the mid-tones... they come in really hot on any profile.

    I grade for this look all the time. I'm actually putting together a grading tutorial soon... I promise. ;) Just been busy...

    BTW, I've been shooting allot of 60fps stuff with Orion on Sandisk 45mb/s cards and I've yet to encounter a dropped frame or lockup. Plus, the quality is the best 720p footage I've seen yet! Pretty much looks like 1080p when doing close/medium shots. Amazing!!!

    Got "stopped recording" all the time in 24fps 1080p mode with the 30mb/s cards though. So yea... don't use anything lower than 45mb/s.

    Samples soon...

  • But I can have 2 24P settings right? Is there a setting I could use with the PNY 16gb 20mbs cards?

  • I'm curious about the red channel banding issues that some seem to report - does that concern pictoris, orion or both? And is it an issue at all ISOs? I don't recall similar issues from earlier versions.. but I might be wrong.

    Cheers for any clarification on this.

  • @bwhitz thx for your words ;) i have the 14-140 and the 20mm pancake from panasonic. is this sort of glass nothing for filmlook?

  • @cinemon - The 14-140 doesn't necessarily lean towards a filmic look (looks a little more video also due to speed), tho the 20mm will render nice images. IMO. It all depends upon the conditions...

  • True, the 20mm 1.7 is probably the exception for "the" look. I've seen and shot some amazing looking shots with this lens.

  • The Panny 25mm Leica f1.4 is also a great lens. The Panny Zooms are slow and overly processed. But I like the Leica SUmmilux and I dont own the 20mm but vids looks nice.

    Zeiss ZFs are fabulous and Tokina 11-16mm is also a great wide lens at f2.8.

  • Yea, the 20mm 1.7 is probably the nicest looking panny lens. Still quite contrasty though. Try bumping up the blacks a bit, then lower the mid-tones again. I find this really helps smooth out the image... especially skin tones. Also, older vintage lenses from the pre-digital era (Nikkor, Canon FD) seem to have a nice lower contrast to them that really helps with the GH2 or any DSLR. I just found some old german pentax mount glass and it looks really awesome... much better at rendering flatter blacks.

  • True, I forgot about the 25mm 1.4.

    Good suggestions @bwhitz

  • @cinemon, try opening up your image in an NLE or Photoshop and turning on the scopes. Check out how the luma values are distributed along the curve, and pay attention to color balance/skintones and overall saturation levels. I find doing this with images I like gives me some insight at the grading level of what's being done.

    As far as the camera, I would -2 everything and shoot with old manual primes using Orion at 24H (the gold standard in my opinion). Then transcode with 5DtoRGB for maximum latitude in the shadows + more flatness. You're basically trying to ride the line between not enough contrast to look good but not too much that it starts looking overly punchy.

    I find myself going towards this look quite often as well. I'm quite tired of the overly-graded sledgehammer look that a lot of videos have been using the past several years.

  • @Oedipax "You're basically trying to ride the line between not enough contrast to look good but not too much that it starts looking overly punchy."

    I find this to be the key to the film look. Bring in flat as you can without losing any quality, and then only adding contrast til something in the image hits that '0' black line. Really lets you dig into shadows but keep something black in the image, so that it isnt a wash of gray.

  • @JPB1138 Well spoken. There definately is a fine line betweem having good detailed contrast over the crushed video look.

  • @RRRR Its inherent to the GH2. Even the stock settings show red banding. We're doing our damndest to try and sort this but without picture profile recoding we're left only with the matrix to adapt...

  • @driftwood Ok! Cheers! No need to worry then.. :) I'll just grab some backup settings for the sake of it. Orion worked really well last night on a shoot. BW profile, high iso. No problems whatsoever!

  • @driftwood one fast question, the -2 sharpness in quantum 9b is like what sharpness in orion? 0 or +2? thx again ;)

  • did some extreme in-camera cross process style white balance. This was not only for the look but also to see how the greens are cleaning up noise for a ISO 3200 recording.

    Orion v4b was used. The cleanest HQ patch setting to date. Thanks Mr. Driftwood!

  • What causes the shift in view when I hit record? It looks like the picture darkens. I assumed I could get a wysiwyg display. I also notice a slight shift to green sometimes. Both situations are more notable when the scene is a dark one.

  • Shoot got pushed AND I accidentally ordered the wrong lens. No 20/1.8 to play with this weekend. So sad. xD

    First World Problems

    Cinema +2 -2 0 -2 Canon 28/1.8@1.8 and then Sigma 28/1.8@1.8+Diff+ND (Wish I had the Sigma 20/1.8 right now!) Orion V4 ISO 640 (might've been 800) and 200 (for the chain) Can't stand how much contrast FCP export adds. Difference is drastic (see JPG version for reference)

    Guess I'll has to find something else to shoot this weekend.

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  • @Bwhitz - Yep, I totally second the "vintage" glass suggestion. Both of my Nikkors (50, 105mm) are pre dig. Love the look of them.

    Buuut, let's stay on topic... I plan on shooting an actual person on Monday. Can't wait to see the results of Pictoris v5 (D, perhaps Nicholas?) :D

  • I am still waiting for my sandisk card to return so at the moment I can't do any real thorough testing but here is a screen shot from some sky banding test footage I did. Driftwood Hybrid Matrix loaded into Quantum X V4 Orion, Smooth -2,0,0,-2, transcoded with 5DtoRGB Pro-res 422(HQ) no flattening, no color correction. Looks pretty damn clear, if you look really hard there is perhaps some light signs of banding but it looks smooth in motion.

    *Update, with color correction the banding becomes more visible unfortunately. I also forgot to mention this is in EXTele so that probably adds too it.

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  • Orion v4b

    Card Sandisk 32 GB 30MB/s

    Canon FD 50mm 1.4 @2.8

    ISO 160

    FIlm mode Smooth -2*4

    24H-2.24 mins, played back in the camera

    24H-Real world around 3.54 mins, one clip played back in the camera another didn't

    24L- spanned 8 mins- two clips on the card

    24L-Ex+80%- stopped automatically around 7 mins- moderate panning around 6 mins


    720p60-SH spanned-two clips- 7 mins

    720p60-SH-Extele-two clips-7mins

    First time 60p spanned on my Sandisk 32 GB 30MB/s

    60i-FSH- 1min- card writing eror

    60i-FH-2.20min-Card writing error

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  • @Kholi In FCP, go to your Sequence Settings, in the 'QuickTime Video Settings' little box click Advanced, in the Compressor box change Gamma Correction to 'none', Ok

    Let me know!

  • Driftwood Quantum X (v4 Orion) CBR

    Tested on SanDisk Extreme Pro 8 gb, 16 gb & 64 gb. Spanned on all but files not viewable after span. Still frames below shot with PanaLeica 25mm & Voigtlander 40mm at ISO 160. Film modes cinema, nostalgic, smooth and smooth bw with sharpness adjustments at -2, 0 & +2. Focus point flashing road work sign.

    Thought it would be cool to see comparison between digital lens (PanaLeica) and one designed for film. PanaLeica was shot with continuous focus while Voigtlander was manual. PanaLeica very sharp lens. Hope to test more film lens soon.

    I'm new to testing so let me know if I've missed any details..

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  • @driftwood,

    Quantum X v5c 'ß Pictoris' CBR 3/1/12 12:40PM (sete) on Sandisk 32GB 30MB/sec Early test

    No hangs and so far rock solid performance on SH 720 at high shutter 1/1000, HBR, 24H and 24L. Will test some more over the weekend.

    I do see some banding in white walls but that could also be the same on all the other hacks. I'll torture the camera and see what I can find.

    Thank you for your hard work!

  • @driftwood, may I ask, whatever happened to Quantum X AVCHD-I 100/50 ???

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