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  • Good news for old STEADICAM JR owners (or for those who would like to buy it second hand)! I was able to stabilize my old Steadicam Junior (JR) by means of removing the monitor, removing all batteries AND weights. I placed the GH2 with its standard lens in the aft position and worked out the top heavy control by unscrewing the head almost completely. It was tricky but I guarantee it works marvellously.

  • Does anyone have experience with the sachtler artemis handheld?

  • @aktivfilm

    Willkommen onboard!

    When you say standard lens, are you referring to either the 14-42mm or 14-140mm kit lens?

  • You are right, as usual. I meant the 14-42mm., Kount.

  • Hi,

    I might be going for the Glidecam HD 1000. I've read many commands and reports saying it works great on the GH2. What do you think, is that the best choice?

    I am going to shoot with the Noktor 12 mm 1,6 (360kg) and the 14-140 mm kit lense. Whats your experience?

    Looking forward to your feedback. Alex

  • Same as aktivfilm, i use my Steadicam JR with my GH1 or GH2. One little weight on top of the camera, and everything is very smooth. I use it with the 17mm olympus or the 14mm pana-cake. The whole system is so light you can hold this for quite a long time

    900 x 1073 - 236K
  • I use a blackbird with 7d. I found a fair amount of penduluming and poor dynamic balance (would tilt if panned). I'vetried moving the weights so that they're along the lens axis. Sometimes it's great,some times terrible. Seems very sensitive to balancing. I'm thinking of trying the hd2000 (with the knowledge I'll need to add weight if I get the gh2). Just wondering if anyone has tried the blackbird and the hd2000 /1000'and your tights if y have. (the wderlan cf looks interesting too,but haven't seen a single demo that doesn't pendulum everywhere)

    Lol love autocorrect should read your thoughts if you have...

  • i would think the stedy cam would work 20 times better with this camera since its less rolling shutter

  • Just wondering if anyone has hooked up a 7" monitor to the bottom of one of these? Looking at the HD2000 and wondering if that was possible. I would think that would already rule out the smaller units, such as the HD1000.

  • I used a Merlin without a vest it was very hard to get it in balance and it was way to light its much easier to work with a heavier rig expetially when you get wind outside.

    So my setup now is a Glidecam X10 with a 4000Pro and a 7 inch monitor at the bottom and a lot of extra wight.

    I really prefer the Glidecam over the Merlin its build like a Tank . With the Merlin I was always afraid that I may destroy something.

    The monitor is also a must have I think. Because you are looking down you don’t fall so fast ;) and its way easier to estimate how shaky the camera is because at the bottom is more movement.

    To mount the monitor I had to drill a few holes in my Glidecam is possible but it is a pain in the ass to get a HDMI cable in the pipe of the 4000Pro. (I had to weld 2 HDMI cables together)

    So from my side a heavy rig is the key and you have to use it regularly to get training with it .

    A small rig and not much time to use it is will never get you some good results.

  • @lebowski1998 "It looks like we need a shootout to decide which steadicam is the best."

    Note that "wandering around the garden" shots are largely useless for comparative testing of stabiliser rigs and operator ability.

    The most meaningful test of a stabiliser+operator (for most indie movie users) is the ability to maintain a walking shot preceding an actor with a mild zoom setting (e.g. 25mm on GH2). Pay attention to the fine points of correct headroom, ability to smoothly start/stop, negotiate basic obstacles like rough ground or a step up/down, and a clean lock-off.

    FOR THE PURPOSES OF THIS FORUM: I suggest a simple "60 second stabiliser test shot" that many people could replicate and submit for comparison: i.e. >>> actor starts sitting in a stationary car >>> gets out of car >>> answers mobile phone >>> starts walking towards camera >>> camera maintains 20+ seconds of perfect framing preceding actor as he/she talks ... includes actor walking up or down a gutter/short steps/simple obstacle >>> shot pauses in 5-sec lock-off >>> camera then circles 360 around actor >>> shot lock-off >>> actor steps out of frame.

    There would be browny points for inclusion of tilting up/down at various points on the shot, and working with longer lens settings. This will sort the wheat from the chaff.

    The methodology for a more detailed steadicam/stabiliser "shootout" would need to be based on the standard set of about ten Steadicam Operator's "precision training drills" with cross-hair targets ... involving pan, tilt, changing body positions, acceleration/de-acelleration in all axes, obstacles and lock-offs.

    The standard training drills for Steadicam operators are demonstrated very well at:

    The drills are also written up in detail in the Steadicam Operators Handbook by Jerry Holway & Laurie Hayball (Focal Press, 2009) p 57 approx $50 . This book is an essential resource for anyone taking steadicam seriously. (2nd edition due out soon).

    For DIY stabiliser buffs, there is also a massive wealth of DIY plans, info and tips for modifuing commercial rigs (hand held and mechanical) at the new location of:

    Happy to share further thoughts on the stabilisation grail ...

  • Does anyone know what kind of stabilization unit that is above that Donnie88 posted? Here's the link again:

    I'd love to find something very similar to it.

  • And to throw my two cents in here... I've tried the Steadicam Merlin and a Glidecam 2000 and had fits with them both. I was using a 5D with a 28-70 zoom and couldn't get the damn things to balance very well. They would inevitably always sway a bit side to side. It seemed like they needed more weight on top and weren't really designed for smaller DSLR rigs (it seems others have chimed in above with that same feedback).

    I was really trying to accomplish side to side movements (akin to dolly movement) but those units seemed best when moving forward rather than side to side. They always tilted slightly to the left or right along with my movement.

  • Just forget it and hire this guy...

    "Russian Ark" - An entire feature film shot in one continuous 96 minute take... on a steadicam!

    In One Breath - The Making of Russian Ark


    Production Notes

  • Ahh.. Russian Ark, such a great film and a miraculous technical achievement!

  • Ahh... Russian Ark ... the Russians invented montage, and then they invented a way to abolish it altogether ;D

  • So I'm not sure if there was much of a conclusion on this? I'm looking at either the Glidecam 2000 HD or the 1000 HD, thinking the 2000 would bullet proof the future if I get a bigger camera. SO maybe a 2000 with 2 extra weight plates on top?

    What do people think? do these work well with a bit of practice. I feel i'll be fine with it, as I can get pretty smooth shots just attaching a go pro to a hiking pole and walking artfully.

  • @ricker in my opinion HD1000 is the right tool for GH2. For HD2000 GH2 is too light. Consider that for a bigger camera you need to be in a very good physical shape and you might get quick to a point where an arm or a vest could become necessary if you want to work more than some minutes. I would recommend to start with the HD1000 and think again when you have your bigger camera. From my experience there is no future proof buying in electronical gadgets. I buy only for my current purpose.

  • Well I just went out and bought the CMR blackbird today. It can go from under 1 pound to 8 pounds in camera weight, so i'll be sure to post up how it goes this weekend as I test it.

  • I just purchased Glidecam HD2000. It works perfectly with GH2 and SLR Magic 12mm. I have two weights total on the bottom and camera+lens on the top. Highly recommend it. I will post some footage soon.

  • @djhessler @Jspatz @bahman @jakef @pc_bel I hope to hear everybody thoughts/ suggestions how you are controlling the camera focus / buttons when it is in a DSLR cage, or on a steadycam? Is it true that (when the camera is caged or on a glidecam) you are also using all settings/ focus as fixed (and can not be changed during shooting) or am I missing something?

    ------- extra explanation------------ Many people buy /develop/ combine cages and rigs (for the GH2). Many things I have are too large for my 'low profile' documentary work. Therefore I made this 'rig' out of several other parts. (not finished yet). I use it to mount light, microphone etc and to get my hands further away from the GH2 so there is less shaking during handheld/ walking. The camera is a bit behind the rig (on the strip) for better balance, and I can access the battery, buttons/ focus easily etc. I can mount it on the tripod

    But when I am holding the two handles I am of course not able to focus (and adjust anything). This is the same with any steadycam / glidecam . Hope to hear from you how you deal with this

    1134 x 850 - 750K
  • Does anyone have any experience on this vest setup?

    I'm leaning towards the glidecam smooth shooter + HD 1000/2000 combo, but I'm looking for a cheaper alternative. Seeing if there are any other options to a steadicam vest type setup.

  • @inhousegoods Odd, it looks sorta like a Glidecam. The carbon fiber stuff has had a tendency to bend and splinter. Not sure what part is CF but the price is ok. Also, I've read the double arm setup is better than the single but I've never tried either.

  • @inhousegoods

    It is not a good thing, you an contact me I'll give you details concerning Wondlan solutions with good vest.