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GH2 Banding
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  • Reality is: If Digital was around for Charlie Chaplin... what would he have done?
    Besides: this topic is about 'banding'... any more insight into this issue...? @Vitaliy_Kiselev ? Do you have any more info? Considering your advanced 'journey to the centre of the Earth' with MJPEG & AVCHD?
  • For learning, you cannot beat the instant feedback of digital. People learn by making connections between cause and effect (or as Vitaliy noted, trial and error). What I've found is that once people have started to gain some mastery, then they have a sufficient skillset to appreciate things like film and taking your time to make deliberate images.

    For dkitsov, you had a sufficient level of mastery so that going to real film and taking your time made sense. But for a novice, digital and its instant feedback is much more useful in the early stages. Afterwards, IMHO, it's up to the student to decide whether to move forward by shooting film, continuing with digital, or some other choice.

    For the festivals you cite, the issue is one of simple laziness. Film is too expensive to allow someone to be lazy. Digital is cheap enough to let people be sloppy and lazy. It shows in the work. It doesn't imply that film is better; it implies that some people are just lazy.

    I'm with Vitaliy on the "filmic look." It's not about the medium; it's about the quality of the effort that creates the look.
  • I found 35mm a bit frustrating in my younger days, as by the time I got my slides back I couldn't remember what had gone wrong (or right). Later I did some B&W developing and printing, but never anything really satisfying just because of the time it all took.

    Where I agree with dkitsov is that limitations can be great. Using Hi8 or SVHS was an education, and I haven't forgotten that certain things can be made to look really good on those formats (for example, subtle reflections on glossy surfaces, and careful use of lighting to control the image) and that's something I've kept with me. I had a colleague who taught video and he got me to just do some simple experiments and then stories. For example, I had to go and shoot "circles" as a subject, and that can create some amazing stuff (I remember a simple landscape which revealed a circle when I moved the camera, as the glass I was shooting through had a circular distortion which was only evident when you moved). Or "making a cup of tea" (the latter I set to music, and put a mirror in the sink so I could get a "kettle's eye view" as the water poured down into it). Playing around with these silly ideas, using what were then quite expensive cameras (but still Hi8) was a real education.

    It would have been amazing to have a GH2 all those years ago, but I wonder what I would have missed out on discovering for myself? Or maybe I'd have discovered different things. But a brilliant camera won't make you brilliant any more than a brilliant instrument will make you a virtuoso - in the end, surely it all comes down to having good ideas and working really hard at them.
  • Life is too short. Move on... fast and faster!!!
  • 5DMkII? If only...
  • >I for once enjoy "filmic" images and don't enjoy "video-y" style of images.

    In fact I don't give a fuck about "filmic" images.
    As for using film camera - you suffered and want others to go same weird way. It is common for people.
    "Why this motherfucker got 5DMkII and is learning such fast? Fuck him, give him $10 secondhand Canon with cheapest 50mm and let him fly."
    I think that it could only work if you control source of food :-)
  • No, it actually is not an abstract idea. And yes, it does work in reality. For starters it worked for me. After years of being an early adopter of digital photography I started to notice an increasing prevalence of mylnitsa-style (mylnitsa being a Russian term for a cheap consumer Kodak or alike camera) images I would produce. I guess it came from the fact that the recording media being abundant I did't have to think quite as hard about how and what I am shooting. So I made a decision to go back to the roots, partially to remove myself from the immediacy that digital allows and partially to explore a different temperament of approach to the image creation. And I think it helped.
    The other reason that I believe it is still a good advice for the community college students is that shooting with cheap manual 35mm camera is almost the only affordable way to experience a large "sensor" style of images and all the perks that they have for many of the students. That is of course to be discussed - what looks good to whom. I for once enjoy "filmic" images and don't enjoy "video-y" style of images.
  • I still think that it is screwed POV.
    Giving them such cameras and slowing any progress you really do not get anything in return.
    What prevents you to have classes about shooting with primes in manual modes?
    I don't get it.
    I think that for you it is some form of abstract idea. Common for many guys who know how to shoot.
    It do not work in reality.
  • That is exactly the point: it happens slower. It does slow one down and prevents one from having a bunch of jerky nervous reactions and instincts. When there are not a thousand buttons to push one has nothing in the way of actually thinking before doing.
    With digital they all just put it in a green mode and shoot away without understanding why things happen certain way.
    With a zoom lens they just become lazy in the way they frame their shots. When one has nothing but a 50mm lens one has to "zoom" with their feet in a process discovering angles they wouldn't otherwise.
    With auto-focus they ignore a creative device of shifting one attention to something subtly, and then again the green mode would put camera into f/11 so everything is sharp. Good for ENG, not so good for film-making and telling stories.
    I do love digital it does make things easy and fast, it's just when I watch student film festivals I can tell which ones of them had a traditional b&w or film background and make beautifully looking images with a $300 cam-coder provided by AV desk at college and which ones of them are "Jimmy wants to be a film-maker" (ie. sucks in math and everything else) and produce "local news at five" looking stuff with a $30K RED kit.
    There are of course exceptions.
  • >Go buy a cheap 35mm camera with a 50mm lens and take an introduction B&W photography at the community college.

    I do not agree with you. As I see no point of advising novices 35mm film cameras.
    Learning something is always result of trial and error. In digital it simply happens faster.
  • Anytime one of the young kids on any production I am involved with ask me about what can they do to become a better filmmaker I say "Go buy a cheap 35mm camera with a 50mm lens and take an introduction B&W photography at the community college"
  • Sure, i think we need something like that. We can still learn from old school photography. I will think about good subject to start.
  • @xsa

    What do you think about making topic for 4x5 and other medium and large format film cameras?
    It is interesting to see real difference and talk about it.
  • I am using film, i love it.there is no digital camera can shoot 4x5 inch.that is why i still find diffecult to like digital imaging.
    It is also amazing new generation never going to use analog system. They will born with digital and grow up with it.future visual esthetic will shape around it.
  • donf,
    This situation is not true with film. It is actually the opposite but for completely different reasons. For all intents and purposes, with film it is impossible to change the dynamic range of the emulsion - you have to use a different sensitivity film to do so. (changing the development time of the film (push/pull) doesn't count).
    The lower film sensitivity the lower it's dynamic range, the higher the film sensitivity the higher it's dynamic range. Although for certain reasons (ie photographic emulsion non-linear response to light) the effect of ISO on the dynamic range is not very pronounced.
  • Put cement in their food! :-)
  • Is that situation true of film as well? As you go higher ISO does the exposure lattitude narrow and noise increases? I guess it doesn't really matter since no one uses film anymore. Just curious. I never played with varying ISO films to understand the tradeoffs.

    How are you going to get the kittens to walk in slow motion. :)
    don
  • Good test.
    I would however caution people, who do not realize that this discussion is somewhat academic, against shooting at higher than needed for good exposure ISO rating. As we are dealing with a fixed sensor that has only one real ISO rating and whatever ISO numbers you set in camera change the gain of the sensor - the dynamic range of captured image is being reduced.
  • @Mark_the_Harp

    thanks for the test.
  • Just did a bit of experimenting to test how the sensor noise might act as "dither" to affect banding. Here are two shots and I've deliberately not used all the dynamic range available (the histogram was going up to about halfway, giving levels of approximately 0-155). I wanted to see if I could deliberately generate banding and see if high ISO (hence more noise) would smooth it out.

    The first photo is a still from a sequence shot 50i at 160 ISO.
    The second photo is a still from a sequence shot 50i at 2500 ISO, with the lens stopped down to bring the histogram back to within a similar range.

    To see it, you will need to click on the images to enlarge (you have to be logged in to do that). It's not a totally scientific test, but I can see banding in the 160 ISO image on the wall to the right of the harp, but at 2500, the system noise seems to smooth out the steps in the image.

    By the way I also tested at 24p and had similar results. It seems to confirm that manufacturers rely on at least some system noise to add dither, and if the system noise is low (for example, low-noise sensor) then you see the "stepping" associated with transitions from one level to another. It's especially visible if you don't use all of the available dynamic range when shooting - in other words, you don't get the camera histogram as wide as possible. Hence, to avoid it, just try to use the full range available when shooting.

    I'll stop being boring now. Later on I'm hoping to post some steadicam footage of my kittens climbing the stairs in slow motion, set to music. Just kidding!
    160 50i.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 288K
    2500 50i.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 347K
  • Thanks for that link. Really useful. While I've intuitively tried to do this anyway when shooting, the explanation makes huge sense to me. Relating it to audio, it's like recording at a high enough level that you hit max without distorting anything (and you can get away with the odd bit of clipping on transients). So you use all the bits you can. It's probably an exact equivalent.

    A big plus is that the GH2 clips in a pretty good way, so there's no excuse not to keep that histogram going all the way up to the right hand side.

    Since we can't increase the sample size, the only other way the banding could be improved would be to have more dithering. Basically you need 1 bit's worth of noise prior to being encoded into 8 bits per channel, which then effectively removes the banding but at the expense of image noise. We do the equivalent with digital audio, but in audio we have at least 16 bits to play with so we're not sacrificing significant S/N ratio.

    Here's some stuff about video dither: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dither#Digital_photography_and_image_processing

    With audio, some cheaper systems don't add dither because the self-noise in the system is enough to act as dither prior to A-D conversion, so if there's a video equivalent, maybe the fact we're noticing banding in these cameras is down to both the low (8-bit) sample sizes and also the low sensor noise / lack of dither. I'm only speculating - audio I know about, but not video! Anyone know?
  • that being said some things are OK to blow out: specular highlights, parts of a cloud, etc
  • Exposing to the right is not a euphemism for anything. It is a name of a technique that allows one to employ the maximum dynamic range of a linear sensor. While the technique came from the digital photography world it is especially important for digital SLR video as we have only 256 step of gray to work with as opposed to possible 4096 steps possible with some still cameras.
    There is a good write up on the exposing to the right on the luminous landscape. http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml
  • Any good sample video links for banding and green hue problems? And is "exposing to the right" a euphemism for slight underexposure?
  • Hey - my 2 cents: when the 5d2 first came out I scoured videos online to see if it was worth buying, and it was then that I first noticed banding in DSLRs as it was obvious in quite a few 5d2 videos I saw. I've seen banding in my GH2 in one shot. So I guess they're similar.

    Edit: 2 shots. Both of them were areas of plain, light (not white) wall.