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Cheap Powerful Godox SL60W LED Fresnel below $199
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  • It has mach lower CRI - confirmed by reseller I dont remember now exactly but below 90 CRI. And is most like made by Godox as well

  • This above is very subjective video showing few things which were already known and did not saying other known as well which does not glorifying sl60 as mach. This days such a competition should be done with current model mark II. But the worst however is the "maker" which is repeating himself instead of kindly thank you to people for feedbacks. Its really difficult to find you-tubers which care even to pretend to be objective with opinions and statements. Ive never care so far what people do and what they watch buts its time for me to be official mature troll and hater! :) Dislikes will be my fevered tool now.

    Vitaliy please make dislike option here :) or call it "I hate it" even :) with same nice graphic of course

  • Ok, thanks for the feedback!

  • You can white balance out a 6500k bulb, yes, unless you're trying to mix it with other "daylight" bulbs which are more in the 5400-5800k range.

    And yes, as Firworks said, the colors do look blue/cold in that video. Also, the skin tones don't look great.

  • It does look blue (cold), but that's not the real problem. You can white balance out a 6500K bulb. You can't white balance out bad color rendition. It might not matter for your specific use case but it matters to a lot of videographers and really better color rendition means the lights are more enjoyable to work under even without video involved.

  • If you say so, I'm no expert on color. I just finished a video for work using a couple of the corn lights, does it look blue to you?

  • It's a daylight bulb, 6500k

    Most "daylight" bulbs should be 5600k. 6500k is going to be a bit blue.

  • If I were you and needed 60W of LED for shooting video I would go with this corn light:

    Quality of light is extremely important in cinematography, and low/mid end LED lights are barely acceptable as it is. I'd dare not go even lower.

  • @bottles101

    Looks bad.

    Diodes are on separate pieces that seem to lack any thermal compound between them and main case.

    I also won't count on this small holes and convection.

  • @Vitaliy_Kiselev I would not be surprised if it is not perfect, after all it cost less than 30 bucks. Still, it's a lot of light for very little money and makes no noise. That's practically all I need.

    It's a daylight bulb, 6500k, no idea the CRI or that sort of thing but that's not a big deal for my use. I only need perfect colors when taking pictures, not video. And I have the SL-150 for the pictures.

    I removed the screws on the top to take a pic down inside, see the pic below. Each row of LEDs is mounted directly into aluminum, with the aluminum plates having holes in them so air can flow through the entire bulb housing.

    This is only partially disassembled as the driver turns out to be in the base, which appears to be glued together and not accessible. Maybe it could be gotten into with a pry tool but I was not about to do that on a bulb I have had only a few days.

    I took this shot with the other two of these same bulbs providing the lighting. image

  • I use a similar 40W bulb in one of my softboxes after the giant CFL lost most of its output from age / use. The colors look a bit off with it though. I'd like to see the real measurements on one too. I might buy one for the PV labs testing just for curiosity sake.

  • @bottles101

    It is quite bad suggestion looking at design.

    I also do not know that "full spectrum" means here. If you like, you can send it to our lab and I show you results.

    Such lamp does not have good driver, puts extreme thermal stress on diodes that will degrade fast as well as will reduce brightness.

    Can you show one disassembled?

  • If I were you and needed 60W of LED for shooting video I would go with this corn light:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBQTTV2/

    It is almost ten times cheaper and there is no fan on it at all, just a giant heatsink built right into the light for passive cooling. It screws into any regular lamp socket, has same power usage, full spectrum and so on. I just got one few days ago and liked it so much I got a couple more to use on lamps in the studio. Wish I would have known I could do this sooner, would have saved a lot of money.

    That's not to say you can not work around possible noise issues on the Godox lights. Maybe your camera even has noise reduction capability built into it, my G85 does and it works decently combined with modding the light and turning down the gain on the mic. But it's not exactly ideal, and may not make sense to pay a premium for something that will end up being a hassle to use.

  • Right, so SL200w / SL100w are bad, but the SL60w is great? (wellllll... fingers crossed about the fan noise? Seems it can be hit or miss? Or at least, it needs to be modded)

  • Probably color cast was on the SL200w version. I have 2 units of SL60w and no one have the problem. One of my units is almost perfect low noise. (Snowfan) The other one is really noisy. (Progressive fan) So probably i'll order another snowfan chinesse fan and i get 2 stock sl60w after all.

    Snowfan YY9225M12B http://www.09635.com/trade/3621254.aspx

    Thanks to @bottles101 and @scotchtape for your help!!

  • @IronFilm

    It is old video and it is about different lights.

  • Have others noticed this problem? Between this tint and the fan noise, it is kinda off putting.

  • So the 92mm pure wings 2 fan can prevent overheating while significantly reducing noise. Probably a 92mm noctua as well as long as it has enough RPM. The pure wings 2 needed to be mounted in a slightly awkward way (reversed and fitted in a diamond configuration rather than square like original) but it does fully cover the heatsink area and the overall modded setup is now actually usable when shooting video (assuming you are not pointing a shotgun mic right at it). Given that it is much more powerful than the 80mm noctua ULN it is not silent, but probably as good as can be had given the cooling requirements for 150W on a single module like this.

    It does still throw the error but interestingly on the SL150 it does not cause any flicker or any other issue. Maybe whatever lighting issue stemming from throwing the error is limited to the SL60 only?

    I took the original little noctua ULN fan and mounted it on the underside of the exterior of the fan so it blows upward. Given the entire assembly is metal it adds a bit more airflow, not really necessary but it is basically silent even compared to the pure wings 2 so figured might as well. This is affixed with small zipties right into the metal slats on the external housing.

    Did talk with my technician at work who said error was based on RPM with that third wire acting like a tachometer, tested this theory by buying a fan that was as close to the original RPM I could find. I forget the specifics but the original was like 2700 RPM and the test fan was 2600 (very few fans out there that are at this power level apparently). Anyway, it still threw the error even with RPM within 100rpm of stock, only difference was the test fan is WAY louder than original. So I guess stock fan is maybe not so bad considering how much air it is pushing around, a lot better than the only comparable fan I could find on Ebay with same speed anyway.

    Pretty much done for mods on this as I am satisfied with the end result, though I may swap the pure wings for a 92mm NF-A9 FLX to see if it will work with the low noise adapter.