@Smiley Sorry, I'm out of this game. No more testing or comparison videos. Enjoy your GH2 and good luck. This community here is great and the work being done here is fantastic. I think there are a few great patches here that make the GH2 look fantastic. I can't get past my gripes with the motion issues. Just my opinion.
Judder is much less of an issue with driftwoods IntraPure ini settings while shooting at 1080p 24fps. More importantly the dynamic range is much higher (especially in darker tones), muddiness and banding is eliminated (practically) and every frame looks like an uncompressed PNG file.
@viktors If you are worried about 24p motion already then I would stay away. If you're going to shoot 60p or 60i then you're fine. I don't have an answer for the motion issues with the gh2 in 24p mode. I spent a lot of time looking into it but then just decided to let it go. I don't care what causes it or if other people see it or not. The gh2 is not for me. Sucks because I really like Panasonic. I did pick up a couple of nex5n cameras and they look fine to me. I actually like them a lot and I have no issue with 24p mode. We shot a few scenes the other day
you are 100 % right . i think you have to use the 24p mode very careful. its Not for a quick holiiday Video. you have to think First about what you will shoot and what settings you have to Choose for this scene to get a good result .
edit : today i want to hack my gh2 to the gop 1 driftwood settings. i was really impressed of some low light shots that were Made with this settings
Smiley: I think that is an optical issue, more than an issue with the camera. Hence the ND filter helps. I guess you used a wide lens? (I've had the same issue with a 20mm fd in certain lighting conditions for stills) Mixed artificial light and natural light can be really hard to control (shooting indoors during the day) - daylight is much stronger than the artificial light, although the artificial light often sets the tone of the scene.. (both in terms of exposure and white balance). The result can be that daylight bleeds through the image.
yeah white "glowing" Objekts are creating this strobe Effekt for me ( no slow s speed 1/50). reducing the light with a nd Filter helps here more than just killing the sharpness of the image.
@viktors what settings are you looking at? I just shot about a half terabyte of footage with kae's extreme 3gop settings and the results are fantastic. Now with driftwood's new I frame settings and it is even better. I'd suggest you are looking at the footage in a different way than how you approach watching a film -- when you scrutinize anything you inevitably notice things that you don't like. When you watch a film, you are into the narrative, the beauty of the compositions and setting, etc, and you stop paying attention to those things. This may not be the right analogy, but for me, it is similar to handheld glidecam work -- a little sway is inevitable without a vest and heavy rig, I never notice it when I'm following a person because the attention is on the person, but as soon as I shoot a pov I immediately notice shifting horizons or horizontal lines.
But from my experience, the problem with candence/strobing comes down to not having good sticks, a good fluid head, a proper sense of how fast or slow to pan/tilt, a proper sense of limits of exposure with the camera.
If you're a hobbiest and not interested in producing docs, shorts or features with film look, but don't want to break the bank, I'd suggest investigating the sony dslrs. They don't support 24p, but it sounds like you don't like it anyway, so why convince yourself to buy a camera you don't want?
Also, as mentioned above, no one should even shoot moving video without an ND filter screwed on or dropped in. If your a serious enthusiast, shell out for a black frost and see why almost every big budget film is shot with one of those bad boys dropped in.
I think you are talking about a different issue, Smiley? (slow shutter speed indoors? - certain lighting also produces glow, which can make it seem worse). Obviously good lighting conditions will help to produce a better shot. But the lens / how it is used comes heavily into the equation of what results one will get.
Anyhow, I've noticed that sharpness seems to play an important role for stuttering footage. Ive gotten some of the smoothest gh2 footage from an anamorphic adapter attached to the kit lens with stabilization. The adapter makes the image pretty soft, and the footage was remarkably stable and smooth handheld even in telecrop mode. Maybe telecrop mode helps aswell, somehow - I don't know.
Also, my 50mm lens wide open (f1.4) produces very smooth handheld moving video, whereas it produced impossible handheld footage on . I used to think it was too soft on my GH1 (and preferred canon's 35mm scc f2, but on the GH2 it is golden for video.
If there is a way to dampen GH2's sharpening in the firmware (beyond -2), that should help a lot. (basically I'm agreeing with what others have been saying before me) :)
Ive now read nearly everything about this strobe issue of the GH2. My experience is that the solution is light. Ive done some Paintball footage at 24p last week and compared it to footage of my room. I followed a (very fast) player with the cam and there was a smooth motion blur in each frame. But the footage of my room was total trash. Brighter parts inside the room have ghosts for about 4-6 frames (for example my monitor was there twice one solid and one transparent). Same for the door and other things that are white or similar. The result was a flickering of the whole scene. For the Paintball player i used my 14-42 as well as my 50mm canon FD lens. No differences for the strobe effect in my opinion (The Canon lens makes a much softer image). I think good lightning is the key here (Variable FD Filter helps a lot with this issue).
You have to understand that just because a file doesn't visibly glitch doesn't mean it isn't corrupted - the transfer errors could have landed in a way that isn't visible on playback, or cause only a minor glitch (eg. just a few pixels the wrong colour). If the MD5 hashes don't match you have a serious problem in your system.
@peterosinski well that still sounds backwards, but regardless, the fact that you are getting different MD5 checksums at all highlights a problem with the file copying process. if files are copied correctly the MD5 checksums will not change.
Follow _gl's advice for troubleshooting your USB transfer.
Hi! I'm new here and I don't have GH2 yet - stutter/judder/strobe issues are what stops me from buying it. I'm shooting photo as a hobby, but I know nothing about video.
I spent several evenings reading forums, downloading video originals, etc., and basically most 1080p24 videos with lots of motion shot with photo cameras with video function look really bad to me, even when compared to 1080p24 "real" films. BluRay films also look bad ("robotic" motion, especially in rotating logos in the beginning), but not as much. DVDs seem to have a lot smoother motion. Still trying to find answers to that problem, what I've found so far:
1) MacBook Air display isn't good for video. If you take Sample Video 3 MTS file from this page: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonicDMCGH2/page15.asp , pause it, and start dragging on the screen, thin tree branches start to flicker. It's like tree disappears and reappears.
2) MPlayerX produces uneven motion on complex scenes. QuickTime doesn't. I used MPlayerX because it can open MTS files directly.
3) To watch MTS in QuickTime, you have to re-wrap it. Free utility (Media Converter) introduces really weird artifacts, which can be only seen when watching frame by frame. ClipWrap (commercial) doesn't have this problem.
4) Adjusting monitors/TV to 48/72Hz refresh rate is *really* hard. So far I haven't managed any monitors to switch to 72Hz, but will make another try with my TV (+XBMC/Linux) tonight. Could be one of the reasons...
5) The nicest (in terms of motion/detail compromise) video I've seen so far from GH2 was 1080i60 - but it has weird doubling effect on fast-moving subjects (I have deinterlacing turned on).
6) One guy mentioned on Vimeo that in ETC mode motion is smoother. If that's true, that hints that something might be wrong with the camera/sensor itself.
So, no solution so far, therefore I have a few questions:
- is there a way to make 1080p24 usable in GH2? - is it something that has to do with CMOS, or perhaps number of sensor readouts? Is it a codec problem? Do much more expensive digital cameras have this problem when recording at 24fps? How do they solve that? - can the problem be eliminated in post in reasonable time? - is 1080i60 recommended on hacked GH2? - is 720p60 recommended on hacked GH2? - are there still stability problems recording at 80%/no sound on GH2? - is there a significant delay after frame exposition is done but before next frame is starting to be recorded? If not, isn't 1/25 close to ideal shutter speed for 1080p24?
I've read many comments that the problem is because of high contrast/sharpness, but personally I think that can't be true, because panning should just blur objects.
@Dalefpf - I'm with you, I really don't understand people who are saying that everything is fine!
file on SD card read from camera with gh2 usb plugged in MATCHED AGAINST file copied from sd card using Camera as reader = matched, GLITCHES IN FOOTAGE
file on sd card read from camera with gh2 usb plugged in MATCHED AGAINST working file I got by using my mothers computer = unmatched, NO GLITCHES
Can you explain that again in more detail, including which machine you ran the checksum on and where the file was at the time. If I'm understanding you correctly that's the opposite of what I'd expect!
i did the checksums. the files that dont match are the ones that are glitch free, while the files with glitches are the ones that match the checksum on the SD card
In that case run the MD5 checksum generator on a file on your machine and your moms. It generates a fingerprint of the file. If there are any differences at all in the copying process the two files will have different checksums/fingerprints.
Can you run this MD5 checksum generator against the file on your mums and your PC. http://www.winmd5.com/ If they are the same this will rule out file transfer issues.
I haven't yet been able to think of a cause that covers all your symptoms. The Linux VM will have different codecs to the windows machines obviously. And graphics card issues - I would expect the PPro render mechanism, the VM interface and Windows Media Player to be exercising different code paths/techniques.
However, try disabling CUDA in PPro and see if that makes a difference.