@Rambo
With the GH2, the Leicasonic has both auto-exposure and auto-focus in AFS mode. On the GH1, auto-focus doesn't work, but it does support manual focus-assist and auto-exposure. Exposure Lock works as well.

@No_SuRReNDeR
Unfortunately, there's only one other type of Panasonic Four Thirds lens with OIS - the 45mm f2.8 prime, which doesn't offer much that the Leicasonic 14-50mm already covers.

@stonebat

$1000 for the Leicasonic?! More typically $500-$600 used on Amazon. But it's true that the GH2 is dog-slow at auto-focusing legacy Four-Thirds lenses. Try the 14-50mm on your friend's L1 again if you want to see how it was intended to work... and no, I don't expect Panasonic to design anything but compact consumer lenses in the near future.

@LPowell Believe in "X". The new 12-35 and 35-100 match FOV from 24-70 and 70-100 on full-frame sensor. Canon, Nikon, Sony have their pro lenses at the focal lengths and constant f2.8. I don't think Panasonic is dumb enough to make theirs at consumer grade. I expect the new lenses will give the best OIS performance. Power OIS is a step forward from Mega OIS. We've been waiting for such lenses since the launch of GH1. More 3rd party m43 lenses are coming next year. No OIS. No AF. Fine. Just make'em cheap. More metals please.

Back to the topic. OIS is great for mitigating "micro" shakes. But it drains the battery faster. A rig can mitigate "macro" shakes and carry a geeky battery. Software Image Stabilization (SIS) is the last resort.

Regarding the best software, it's also good to determine the learning curve. There are some great stabilizers out there but getting proficient at the plug-in is most of the battle. For my last film, which had some really tough shots due to a Letus adapter on an HV20, I found iStabilize the easiest interface to use and pretty good results. I tried to use Shake, but the parameters of the movement made me have to split up the shots and analyze sections. iStabilize does that well, and it's cheap.

Shoot a bit wider than you need, use shutter as short as possible to reduce real motion blur as far as possible. Denoise, then stabilize with the tool of your choice, add reelsmart motion blur 0.4-0.6 to fill the gaps in between the frames. Be careful with afx warp stabilizer... it may add a very distracting "flirring"...

yes an OIS adapter would be perfect, kinda like a half OIS lens and then you add the rest yourself :)

Colour me stupid, but regardless of the OIS mechanism, wouldn't this increase the flange distance? So it could only work if the adapter already had space to work in (i.e. It's a non native lens that's being adapted and the added space was required anyway)

Better to have the OIS in the body, no?

@LPowell

Based on you comments about the Leica 14-50 I went and tested and can't see much OIS effect nor can I see it on the 14-140. I remember it being very pronounced on other systems. When a loose tilt knob allowed the VG10 to tilt down suddenly, the image in the viewfinder did not catch up for about a second. I have the switch on and the lcd echoes that OIS mode 1 is active, but the video looks about the same with or without it. Can anyone suggest a test or think of what I might be doing wrong?

Someone knows the rolling shutter rate for GH2 HBR 1080 25p ? I need it on deshaker.

When I have to, I use the offerings within Boris FX. I have in no way mastered it.
That said on occasions I have gotten the best result with multiple passes ... often a rotational fix with cropping turned off, followed by horizontal and vertical ... sometimes 1 pass for each.

That is I stabilise 3 times, rather than allowing the software to do all three at once.
It might be worth a try.

http://www.nchsoftware.com/videopad/ The free version works fine as a front end for, I think, de-shaker. Group select your clips, right-mouse over them and stabilize. You can also customize setting.

DaVinci Resolve has a great stabiliser and it's free.