I shoot with the GH3 for weddings, and we have never denoised a shot yet.

Dont go over ISO 1600 or use Auto ISO ever for video. The camera will ramp up to 6400 almost everytime in lowlight in AUTO mode.

For very low light, film AVCHD 25p and you can dial shutter speed down to 1/30 if there is not much motion. Otherwise stick with AVCHD 50P and 1/50 shutter looks just fine.

We also shoot +1 on Noise Reduction on Natural profile.

I shoot with everything in -5 except the saturation I put it in -3 to get some colour instead of grey, but for sure never put saturation over -2, I dont think I am the only one who says that. I am curious for a "cheap" lense that I am not sure if its going to work. I am talking about tamron adaptall and adaptall 2 mount. If I understand correctly these series of tamron can be used with any slr with the relevant adapter that as I see in ebay these adapters are not as expensive as adapters from one brand of slr to another, and I found on b&h tamron adaptall 28-105 f/2.8 at about 500$ and adapter for micro4/3 in ebay between 25-40$. I am not gonna have auto focus at all but I wouldn't be able anyway to have auto focus under low light, as I test the gh3 I discovered that autofocus works only in perfect lighting conditions. If light is good auto focus is better from most of other slrs, probably the best. But in low light :( So does anyone know if the adaptall tamron is going to work with the appropriate adapter(Sorry for my english if I have mistakes and for the big post, I trying to fix noise problem as most of gh3 users)

Hi There. Great forum with great info btw. Very happy I found it !

I'm pretty dumb when it comes to video and this is really the first time I'm trying it, but have been into photography for many years. I picked up a GH3 & 12-35 last week and have been shooting in MOV 1920x1080 50p 50Mbps. I have been shooting in Creative Video Mode (Aperture Priority) however I see many people shooting in Manual mode or Shutter priority with a fixed shutter speed.

Can someone explain why they do this? What advantage is there at having a fixed shutter speed? There seems to be some relationship between the frame rate and the shutter speed.

Should I be leaving my shutter at double my frame rate ... i.e. 1/100 sec?

I should probably start shooting in Manual instead of Aperture mode as well I guess. I don't really want to shoot in Shutter Priority as I like to be in control of the aperture. I bought a variable ND filter last week as well because here in Hong Kong the sun is so bright it would make it impossible to use any open apertures otherwise. Cheers.

Thanks, Maddog15 for the reply and information. Very nice videos !

I will try shooting with 1/100 SS this weekend and be in Manual mode as opposed to Aperture mode. I think most else regarding exposure is the same as photography, but they differ in so far as shutter speed choice goes.

I really like street photography so want to do this with video as well. Things move pretty quickly on the street so while shooting in Manual mode is no issue, getting the variable ND filter adjusted quickly for a nice exposure if wanting to use a wide aperture will be challenging :)

I had read enough before I went out shooting last weekend to have the settings quite flat (-4, -3, -2, -5), but I may try even flatter next time (-5, -5, -3, -5).

Downloaded the Adobe Premiere trial and done a few tutorials from the website. The program seems very powerful.

Thanks again.

@Sph1nxster To be honest I don't even mess with iDynamic on my Gh3 after doing initial tests with iDynamic. I'm getting great results with flesh tones and tonal range in general. Plus I don't really like any camera doing its own post "magic" beyond capturing great quality video right out of the gate period. (Yes I realize i'ts "digital" videography so there's a certain amount of "magic" happening as soon as you press record.) I just prefer to shoot as raw as i can, then do what i need in post. Perhaps others have had success with iDynamic as I'm just one person with one opinion. Anyway that's my two cents. Hope it helps.

Guys ... another quick question.

Is there anything wrong with shooting in Shutter Priority in movie mode as opposed to Manual? I have the 14-42PZ and 45-175PZ lenses. Is there a huge degradation in image quality if these lenses are stopping down to f/11 & f/16 and etc? I see from reviews that there is in still quality, but how about for video?

I ask, because there are sometimes when I just want to film stuff happening on the street and it's very difficult to shoot in manual and adjust a variable nd filter to get the correct exposure as it's quite bright over here in Hong Kong.

@deang001 The thing you have to be careful about when shooting video on Shutter Priority is you're allowing, or rather forcing, the camera to make exposure corrections via the only perimeters left.... f-stop and ISO.

e.g. You're shooting in a darkly lit room with the shutter speed set at 50 and camera on Shutter priority. The camera will raise the ISO in an effort to get a proper exposure. When the ISO goes above say 16000 (and it will) you'll get terrible noise and therefore a terrible video. Shutter priority will work better outside with a lot of light. (Though you now have no control over depth of field as the f-stop will likely automatically go higher because it's so bright outside) On "S" the camera will quickly display what it is setting the ISO to when you half press the shutter release button on the front. Point it around the room and notice how the ISO on "S" mode will change drastically from area to area. The only benefit to shooting video in "S" mode is the camera will make the exposure adjustment when your say walking outside around the house and then into the darker garage area. This is assuming you're shooting outside where there's plenty of light everywhere. If the ISO only fluctuates between maybe 200 and 800 so you're safe. You can go as low as 30 on Shutter Speed while shooting 24fps. More burry movements but if you're not shooting anything fast you'll be fine. I try not to shoot video above ISO 800 and always shoot in Manual mode personally.

Here's a good reference for low light shooting...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL5AE50B51597773AC&feature=player_detailpage&v=AZ9aIB57-Nw

@deang001 That's a good question and difficult to answer as different lenses have different finicky personalities regarding diffraction. "By the book" the sweet spot is supposed to be f4 and up. (I think.) But my personal experience has taught me that because every lens has its own personality/quirks - I test each lens as soon as I buy it. I have an old but nice manual focus 50mm f2 Pentax prime lens. At f16 it out performs the Pany 14-142mm as far as full frame clarity and sharpness at the same f-stop. It's not supposed to (as the Pany lens is new, made for the m4/3 camera etc etc...) But the prime 50mm Pentax does. Go figure! Still learning a lot myself.

That's my two cents. Perhaps others will post a more educated opinion on the subject. I'd like to know more myself.

@yak Nice comparison. I fight that battle with skin tones too. Flat and chalky. Good description. To date the best remedy I've found isn't the camera but how well or dynamic my subject is lit. I have my fingers crossed VK and the crew will get a GH3 hack in progress with a higher bit rate than 72Mb/s. (My GH2 with Moon T5 at 153Mb/s added so much more information and wiggle room to play with in post) Sorry...kina got off topic for second.

@yak Dead on with this. thanks for sharing.

Is there any real info about the hack ?

I saw this video

in the 12-35mm 2.8 lens thread and really liked the look. On the vimeo page he says he was using Vivid dialed down. I have never tried that because it seems like ending up at neutral anyway but I think now I might run a test when I get some time and see what it does.

@maddog15 Would love to see your results. I'm not sold on shooting really flat with an 8bit codec. I'm so swamped with post work this month I won't get to play with picture tests till mid Sept.