did you see the last comment on the link that you provided? one guy said this "The TV picture is in black G6 soon as a video recording is started ... "

I want to shoot a feature film with the Lumix G6 with good old angenieux retrofocus and Cooke lenses. I'm a Gh2 user and I really love the camera but sometimes I need more details in shadows and there's where my good old friend lacks. Currently I'm also using allied vision camera's with the Kodak CCD sensor but the workflow is kinda dreadful and frustrating.

Can somebody here confirm if the G6 has more dynamic range over the GH2 and/or maybe the GH3? How much stops does the G6 have? I used the focus peaking on a test G6 in the store but it seems very shitty.

Should I stick with Lumix cameras or go with Magic Lantern hacked Canons?

@Aria

Thank you for your reply!

It seems like the workflow of the Canons is very similar to my current workflow with Allied Vision camera. But at least I can record proress with the Allied Vision camera but I don't feel like carry around a tablet computer with capture software, kinda goofy. If I'll buy the canon I need fast cards and a VAF for the shitty typical canon moire/aliasing nonsense. And the h.264 codec looks like 480p due to the line skipping..

Although the Canon 7D is future proof with the fast CF write speeds of 80mb/s and good buffer size . You know what should be very awesome, if the could make a firmware that could write uncompressed proress 444 instead of DNGs.

Hmm I'll stick with Lumix. The OMD's are also very tempting with the 5 axis stabilizer only the dreadful codec is a problem. Somebody needs to hack that one :)

@joeyq, how about considering getting an OMD-EM10 for moving shots of mostly faces and low detail scenes and then you could also have the G6 for the wide and highly detailed shots that you can lock the camera off. I think that combo could be really useful.

Just Bought the GX7.. Just wow I'm amazed.. Good replacement for the GH2! I tested G6 the imagery out of the camera is a actually the same as the GH2, only without the green fetisj and more dynamic range. The GH2 is way sharper. So I bought the GX7 I would highly recommend this camera to GH2 users!

I'm going to buy a secondhand OMD- EM5.

@joeyq Just be aware of that the E-M5 has worse video quality than the E-M1 (praised at Voldemort's site).

I hope that G6 drops in price now that the new GH4 flagship is in preorder. Like all the wannabe filmmakers I look at the GH4, but obviously I'm aware that I haven't any logical (read: money, clients, knowledge) reason to buy it. I've found, on the GH4 thread, some "direct-from-camera" video files and saw how much you can squeeze them in post. There is a place where someone has uploaded some G6 "direct-from-camera" files to see how they behave in my well-below-perfection workflow?

:-)

@bluefonia: thanks for the video,I'm downloading it to see how it behaves under my less-than-perfect wannabe hands, but can you put on wetransfer or somewhere else a bit of the original file? I want to see how much I can squeeze it into my workflow, as I've done with the GH4 files that someone provided on another thread. Thanks again

trafficarte@ Sorry, - as this was just a quick test i have trashed the original footage.

I just bought a Black Magic Pocket as A-camera instead of an OMD-EM10 as B-camera, the GX7 and the BMPC is a hell of a combo! I'm still not sure which one is better from out of the box in terms of workflow. RAW is slightly overrated and a pain to work witt, but the proress 10bit codec is just a sent from heaven. But I think the PANA codec holds pretty good!!!! Even though it's just 24mb/s!

Im soon going to do a little comparison..

Here is a piece i'm working on using a G6 with a RJ speed booster (notice the blue dot?) and samyang VDSLR lenses and a Takumar smc 50mm. I plan to get the samyang 35mm asap to replace the Tak because I have intense gold color shift :/ Having worked with CAnon raw footage I can say the G6 image is very pleasing and the camera is very easy to use. The main issue for me is that the camera seems very sensible to inccorect shutter times, even 1/125 for 24fps in a low motion scene gives unpleasant results :/ something to keep in mind!

oh wow .......

In video mode simply go to the menu and set 'manual' exposure. You get manual f-stop, shutter and iso by default with auto white balance. There is a way to toggle on the screen between shutter and f-stop, on the zoom lever or the thumb wheel, but I haven't sorted out exactly how it works. I bounce around until I get the f-stop on the zoom lever and the shutter on the thumb wheel. I also have ISO programed to fn4 to the thumb wheel.

Seems to work pretty quickly for getting shots in the heat of the moment.

Here's one of the moon setting this morning with a 600mm in regular 2x crop and ETC at 4.8x crop.

I only had about 30 seconds to get this one set up. Getting to know your buttons really helps when it counts :)

Cheers, Pete