@olli66 Bringing a piece of paper...that will "work". And it's better than guessing when choosing one of the 4 custom WB's and popping a reading. Really need to use a true WB card. That said, In a pinch I'll grab multiple pieces of paper when I forget my WB card. Stacked together so they become a flat opaque white. One piece of paper could color your WB reading because it's translucent. So...that's a pain in the ***. Use a WB card. ;)
@Vesku A couple critical things about using a WB card is the position from camera and environment you take the reading in. For an interview of a person: Have them hold the card in front of their face, angled or positioned to reflect or represent the color of the room where they are located. Auto WB works... UNLESS the color of your shot changes. I was happy with auto WB too. I learned the hard way relying on auto WB. EG: I was shooting a warm room (tungsten lighting from table lamps). I panned to another person who sat close to a window. (Cool Blue light outside) Boom... the auto WB "automatically" shifted from a cool (around 3400K) to (about 5400K) compensating for the color change on camera and ruined the shot. When running and gunning, outside, night time city shots, I set it manually. At least I'm in the ballpark and can then correct in post.
I must try white card strategy again. I have used it sometimes but the results have been too neutral to me. Auto WB has not been a problem for me if I move with camera. It very seldom changes so much that it is trouble for me. I understand that in film making any exposure or WB change is not good during a clip or clips. It will be bad to cut differently colored clips. For my casual shooting auto WB works fine.
As I posted some weeks ago, about wb, please test it and tell me because I think it is the best way and I prefer it from auto or a white paper. Set the wb custom with saturation in +5, and some contrast too, lets say +2. Only to set the wb, then shoot in any settings you like. Please try it and compare it with auto and with white paper, I need your opinion cause I find it the perfect way and I am the only one :P
I have had my GH3 for 3 days now, May I just ask for some basic information for first time video recording please..After reading various forums and lots of contradictory information I am a little unsure about just starting out with the camera. My aim at this stage is to just record decent looking video (I am not worried about colour correction at this point, I just want to know some basics before I press record)
all I have is the M zuiko digital 12mm f.20 lens.
My two main questions are: 1) Shutter speed - Should this be double the frame rate ? 2) iso for outdoor in daylight (I dont like the auto) 3) Focus setting - I video in large outdoor spaces and want as much as possible in focus. 4) metering - where do is start.
All I want is to do is start videoing, so I am asking for a basic setting to get me going. I have never used a DSLR for video before.
If anyone could give me a starting point for a first time user to progress with, then I would be eternally grateful. I am happy if any reply is just a series of bullet points for basic settings.
Thanks in advance.
1.) The rule for video is double the shutter speed per your frame rate. If you're shooting at 24p then SS = 50. For 60p SS = 125.
2.) ISO should be as low as possible to avoid noise. I never shoot video above 1600 ISO. Way too much noise.
3.) The higher the f-stop on your lens the deeper or greater you Depth of Field. Depth of Field (DOF) is the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a scene that appear in focus.
4.) Your exposure meter should hover around "0" for a balanced exposure. Adjust f-stop and ISO (not above 1600) in tandem to dial the meter into the "0" zone.
For the time being you can set the camera on "P" mode and it'll automatically do the work for you. The problem with this is you've lost control over your camera. Most Pro's, Semi-Pro's and enthusiast shoot all Manual. If you're new to all this and it sounds quite daunting, take your time. You'll learn by practicing as we all have. The most important thing is to "shoot". Keep shooting - anything - everything. Look at the footage and try different ways. Test and repeat.
PM me if you have any other basic questions.
Have fun with your new camera!
Thank you very much, Maddog15. Thanks for taking the time to give me some advice.
@naughty_dog My Pleasure. If the only lens you have is the Oly M zuiko 12mm f2.0 - that's a killer wide angle lens. Wish I had it.
Check out what Drew from the DREWnetwork did with that lens. NO stabilizer - Hand held walking shots.
I am going to like -4 sharpness indoors or with high iso. I think that sharpness/noise ratio is better than with -5. Also with Pana telezooms -5 is maybe too soft at least in long end and may require too much post sharpening. Contrast setting also affects sharpening and with soft light -5 may bee too flat.
Hey everyone...
Been following this thread for a while but just joining today because I've recently purchased a GH3 and would love to contribute.
Just a question: does anyone know how the GH3 picture settings are applied, before or after encoding? In other words, if you turn Sharpening to -5, is the GH3 applying this adjustment straight off the lens before encoding, or after the video is already encoded. I've searched extensively for this kind of info, but failed to turn up anything useful so far. Any thoughts?
@Ron_I That is a really good question. This is only my personal opinion but I would think that Sharpening is a digital process before encoding in camera. Once the file is encoded I wouldn't think the camera then applies say a -4 to "sharpening filter" to that video file. Just my gut feeling, no facts to base that off of. I could completely be wrong. If you find the facts on this please share.
Congrats on your new GH3 and welcome.
Re: encoding, I believe that the various parameters are baked into the codec and applied as the files are being written. Just like photos, the camera captures RAW frames and then software changes it to JPEG or h.264. With video, you can bypass the encoding and directly capture what the camera sees via HDMI output.
just ordered my self a white balance sheet...exited to try that one out! so far I only brought white papers to a shoot...
I've ended up using the Expodisc ... the newer ones are both better and cheaper than the older ones. White paper is (from having tried it quite a number of times) a total crapshoot depending on what paper you use. The spectral reflectivity of paper varies far more dramatically than our eyes can see.
The whole thing about using a good WB tool is simply to get you as close to neutral as possible in capture so that your colors have more even hues and "depth" to work in post. I've tried the AWB on the GH3 and the D600 ... it gets you somewhere, but not nearly where you get to for post-work as if you've got a good WB to begin with. As far as "pros" go, when shooting say a night-scene in late afternoon ... they'll often start with a very clean WB and low sat (well, they almost always shoot low-sat) and then give the total "look" of being a night-scene in post.
You can modify the WB you set with the grid thing in the menu settings ... and I've found I both WB for "neutral" and then set that for preferences which means that oft I get to post on simple things and the color is useful one shot to the next as-is. I'm very picky, btw. And ... for more detailed projects, everything lines up and grades far easier than each shot varying by the cam's AWB ... mish-mash.
The "passport" WB tool is also an excellent one ... want to get that also.
Neil
It seems to me that GH3 isn't very much improved over GH2.. I have shot on ISO3200 in low light without any issues.. here is one clip shot on ISO3200 and to me it looks cery good with almost no noise..
Here is a small video without history composed of two parts. the first part contains images without color correction GH3 and the second part is exactly the same setup but with davinci resolve 10.1 and some of which read the Yak. The images were shot with a manual white balance.
@surfculture Looks good, but feels like you pulled the highlights/gain down too far. Are the whites not near 1024?
@maddog15 I just watched that DREWnetwork's video...really? is it possible to achieve those kind of shots without image stabilisation? so that guy tells us in his ugly language (I don't like the guy!) that lense-built-in-stabilisation is a bad thing? how about you guys? do you film with or without? shooting a long concert without image stabilisation and 35-100mm lense and full zoom? on another note I'd like to see that 24p tutorial that Drew guy is talking about but I can't find it, can someone point me to this direction?
@olli66 He does mention using Warp Stabilize in Premiere Pro CC to smooth out and tiny bumps - but yes - hand held. No stabilizer. That's because of the Oly 12mm lens.
@maddog15 and because of slow motion
@starios Yep, thanks I forgot that crucial point. Shooting at 60p and editing at 30 or 24 fps makes a lot of shots "look better."
And technically this isn't off topic. We've not spent much time discussing recoding frame rates and editing frame rates as a part of Best Video Settings. That said the above technique can be critical in slider shots that are executed by hand vs motorized.
But shooting at 60p also effectively halves your bitrate.
@wgtwo Is that true? I'd love to see the specs supporting it. Not doubting you... I'd like to learn. Here's some good food for thought. Panasonic advertises the camera as 60p @ 50Mbps. As with any camera that you shoot with a higher frame rate for the purpose of slowing the footage in post, at least at 60p recording your getting 50Mbps. Check out the vid here. I've posted it before but what I found impressive is 75% of it was mistakenly recorded on MP4 60p @ 28Mbps! (At some point, I wasn't watching what I was doing and in a hurry I accidentally set the camera to MP4 mode instead of MOV!) Soooo ... Since I edited the piece as a 29.97 sequence and slowed the footage by 50% I would have only 14Mbps if you're comment is true right? View the vid in 1080. Even with YouTube's terrible compression my eyes feel strongly that 14Mbps wouldn't have held up and graded as well as it did. ( For reference: All the footage outside during the ceremony was recorded as MP4 60p 28Mbps. Notice how well the skin tones rendered. Good color, good dynamic range, no hint of artifacts or blocking.)
I could be wrong... please someone correct me if so... but I believe 60p footage slowed 50% is still broadcast quality. (Broadcast quality should be 50 to 100Mbps I believe.)
We talked about bandwidth and fps relation some time ago and as I remember, gh3 has no difference shooting either in 30 or 60fps, other dslrs have. Maybe it has but I cannot see it
@maddog15 this wedding video of yours is A PIECE OF BEAUTY, music well chosen and nicely edited, you captured this wedding in all its beauty! I have seen many wedding videos and most I can't stand to watch because the editors make something like a "soap TV show" out of it, so, that was the praise for the editing now the LOOKS: I love it. Nice colors, beautiful skin tones. You are my reference now. Me and my girlfriend decided to never get married in a big fashion but if we would you'd be our man ;-) May I ask a couple of questions: Everybody is talking here about shooting at highest frame rate possible. I live in Germany and can only shoot in 50p. How much worse is it when doing slow motions or rendering to 29.97 for internation "productions" or in post deciding to go to 24p? Did you color correct a lot of the shots= Which lense did you use and what kid of rig for the shoot? And one thinkg from a question before I still don't understand. That Drew guy: OK, he uses Adobe Warb stabilizer (have to do my own shoot by just walking around and using a wide angle lense and then stabilize it in post to see how that goes) but he says lense stabilisation should always be turned off when shooting video? or is it just the case with the lense he used? as I said I shoot concerts with multiple cameras and on one we use the panasonic 35-100mm lense and this one in full zoom without stabilisation...I have my doubts if that shoot would turn out as we want it. So, enough questions. Hope some will find some answers. Thaks for your time. Downloading that wedding video now and watching it o my HDTV...(PS: any chance for uploading this video not on youtube but in higher quality?)
Always turn stabilization off if your camera is on a tripod etc. Otherwise, it's up to you.
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