Hey Maddog - thanks for the advice.

The only time I would want to use Shutter priority is when doing some street shooting outside where there is always plenty of light but not enough time to adjust a variable ND filter.

Because it's so bright over here, the camera will choose some pretty small apertures to get correct exposure. What I was asking is will apertures of around f/11, f16 and above see a degradation in image quality (sharpness) for video?

The lenses I have are the 14-42PZ and 45-175PZ. The DOF and lack of aperture control is no issue. Just worried about diffraction etc and if it's as relevant for video as it is for stills.

Cheers !

"deang001 I suggest even that maddog15 is right for the golden rool, I suggest shooting with ss at 50-60 cause all the dvds except blurays and youtube, vimeo dont go over 30fps and they do that by deleting frames so, if you are going to have 25 or 30 fps with ss 100-125 depends what you shoot, means jittering and believe me, frame blending dont blent nice to the eye this kind of frames except if frames have close distances to each other, like 50fps 50ss so blending in 25fps will create something like 25ss (of course blury) instead of ss 100 that will create a frame with 2 blury frames one here and one there :P"

Thank you for the advice, Starios.

deang001 I suggest even that maddog15 is right for the golden rool, I suggest shooting with ss at 50-60 cause all the dvds except blurays and youtube, vimeo dont go over 30fps and they do that by deleting frames so, if you are going to have 25 or 30 fps with ss 100-125 depends what you shoot, means jittering and believe me, frame blending dont blent nice to the eye this kind of frames except if frames have close distances to each other, like 50fps 50ss so blending in 25fps will create something like 25ss (of course blury) instead of ss 100 that will create a frame with 2 blury frames one here and one there :P

About iDynamic, I am not sure what it does but I dont like the effect of enlightening and darking my shots before I press record and keep the last brightness the camera thought would be right when I shoot, as I tested I may shoot twice the same frame and I am gonna have different brightness in two shots and I dont know what else may be different because the camera counted in the begining of my shot by itself the right settings :P

3rd In about two-three weeks I am going to have my brand new OLD tokina tv lens with the risk of not working :P Well, I took the risk to buy from ebay this lens and I will upload my tests immediately, everything is manual, it is c-mount,12.5-75mm, aperture is from f/1.2 to f/16 (fading in and out, without gaps for stops) that is going to be about f/2-22 because of the c-mount 1.5x teleconverter I also ordered and then to m4/3 adapter (285 euros all). If this works means that the solution of fast and also zoom lenses it there, in old lenses, except if you have thousands to spend.

Anybody else found major differences between running the GH3 in high I dynamic mode and standard I dynamic mode when using manual lenses? I'm finding the standard mode much more reliable for getting better skin tones.

@deang001 Check out the video links I posted just above on this page. Explains a lot for beginning DSLR shooters. Should answer many of your questions plus a few.

When shooting video - shutter speed set at double the frames per second is the "golden rule". You can bend this rule but my experience has shown you need to stay in this range. Eg: shooting 60 fps at 125 will yield the most natural movement and clarity. Shutter speed set too fast will give you very jittery, jumpy and strobe like video instead of smooth motion blur where appropriate. SS too slow will give you soft and blurry video even with the slightest movement via camera shake or subject movement.

Do a test with a (1) very high and (2) very low shutter speed. Both exposed properly via aperture. In both tests point the camera at your face held out at arms length. While standing and camera pointing at you at arms length, spin around 2 or 3 times slowly in place. (Don't get dizzy and drop the camera!) now look at the two tests.... You'll see what I mean.

All things said i think you'll eventually find that Manual shooting (including manual focus) gives you the most control when shooting video.

Hope this makes sense... I've not had my coffee this morning. Good luck!

@starios - I didn't see you mention what mode you were shooting in (i.e. MOV vs. AVCHD). It's been mentioned by many users here and elsewhere that the MOV mode produces a cleaner image. Also, that lens you're using is crap in low light. You need something faster. Hopefully with a constant aperture throughout the zoom range. Fast zooms cost money. So I'd recommend primes since their usually much better in low light and available in a wide variety of choices for all budgets. But this might not be good for your type of work. I've only ever shot two weddings in my life. So I'm no expert in that type of scenario. That's extremely tough work (shooting weddings). Total respect to all who earn a living doing it.

I'm sure there are other threads around. But I found this one pretty insightful:

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/859/video-friendly-lenses-for-lumix-dslrs/p1

@Dphotog

Simply put, In camera sharpening and contrast can kill your image. Remember you can always adjust contrast, sharpening, saturation and color grade in post. You can't get back information once it's lost or over pushed to an extreme in-camera.

It's a double edged sword. You can get what appears to be great contrast in-camera while shooting. But you can't do much when say your whites and/or blacks are crushed due to extreme in-camera settings for contrast. Shoot in the middle or soft contrast and you can always push contrast to your personal taste in post. There's still pixel information (dynamic range) there to work with since you've shot with contrast settings all the way down in-camera. Same goes for sharpening. You can get what appears to be a "sharper" image with in-camera settings while shooting. But over sharpened images in-camera also exaggerate and bring out aliasing and noise. Again once it's there it's a bitch to remove or correct.

Check out these vids from Fenchel & Janisch They"ll explain all your questions in detail with examples....

Hope this helps and good luck.

Using flat setting is about getting as much deatail as possible and have more options in post to create a look you like. Never had problems with noise using flat setting. Noise is probably from under exposing.

Hi, I am from poor greece and I bought (a friend photographer bought it for me and I shoot weddings to pay it back) the gh3 pal version with the ultra noisy 14-140. Unfortunately the only way for me to shoot in low light with this lense is by using neat video in premiere or whatever and wait 10-15 times the length of the video to export. I also can have a soft porno effect :) by shooting in 25p with 25ss full of motion blur but it's ok if do not have a lot of action in your shots. One thing is for sure, if iso is higher than 1600 the video is useless. My next purchase will be g-vario f1.7 because it's not so expensive and then I will start having focus issues but, make "art" with anything you have

sorry if this has been discussed already, but has anybody else noticed nasty orange skin tones? It may have been happening because the saturation was at -5?

@Henry yes those are screen grabs, I'm working on the grade in Resolve which is a pleasure to use

@feha Very nice. I like the music bed also. What color setting and sub-settings did you use? (Eg: standard -0 -0 -0 -0)

@flablo I appreciate the inspiration. The grabs are nice indeed. Perhaps I've been over zealous in my 2 1/2 week judgements. I'm looking forward to the 20mm and I bought an old manual 50mm f2.0 on eBay. Both should be here Wednesday.

One lens has my mouth watering as far as best possible settings or results... The Voigtländer Nokton 25mm f/0.95. Rightfully so, it's about $1000. I would assume the "science" of the camera is limited most by the poor light "physics" restriction that a particular lens places on that camera. To paraphrase Drew from DREWnet, "You don't buy lenses for you camera collection, you buy camera bodies for your lens collection."

Ill post a few grabs once I get the lenses.

Thanks for the reply.