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What are you guys using for audio recording with your DSLR?
  • 155 Replies sorted by
  • I'm not sure there is a big difference but I prefer the mics on the H2 of the zooms. Of course, it could just be sample variance.
  • @DouglasHorn, yep you may be right. The internal mics are much better on the h4n though, but it's a big chunk of hardware to shove 4inchs from someones gob just to get the best tone with the sponge windshield on. H1 almost looks like a hand mic with windshield. (handling noise touching the casing of h4n is huge improvement over H1)
  • @DrDave - I think spending as much of your budget as you can afford on mics is not a bad strategy. That Schoeps mic will last you a lifetime. I made the same decision that the DR-680 was the best bang for the buck and I've been very happy with it. If I need timecode for a project, I rent a 744T.

    @Rambo - I don't have the H4n but I'm not surprised they sound the same. I expect they both use the same preamp circuit.
  • I have had the H1 for some time, just bought the h4n. For simple mono/stereo reccording with lav or shotgun, there is no audiable difference in record quality. The extra features and Xlr inputs are hany though.
  • my 2 cents here- zoom h1 is unbeatable for on the road documentary stuff with a host :) incredible sound, and no headache whatsoever. pluraleyes - and youre set. :)
  • I think it is an interesting question at what point given a certain budget the money should go into mics instead of the recorder. So if you hook up a pair of Schoeps to a cheap recorder, does it outperform a pair of cheaper mics hooked up to a very expensive recorder. And for me, the answer is definitely. The Schoeps can be powered even by 12 volts with a CMC6 connected to a microtrack or whatever. Of course if your budget is unlimited, it is a different story. But for me the budget line in the sand is the DR-680. Anything more pricey you will get better results by upgrading the mics or upgrading to a Lexicon :)
  • Just picked up my Sound Devices Pre-D mixer (the new one that's only been out a few months) -- had been recording with just the Tascam dr-100 before. I gotta say, the difference is incredible. Had been thinking about upgrading to a better recorder (661, 702) but after some tests it became clear that the problem wasn't the recorder, it was the quality of the preamps, limiters and low cut filters, and the fact that its so much better to feed a line signal to a recorder than a mic signal. Erganomically, I love how I can mount it under my camera on my rig and be able to clearly monitor audio levels and video side by side (and adjust audio with a turn of a knob, which is not only easier, but doesn't risk handling noise. And it has a USB out, so I can use it as my mixer when I do scratch v/o as well.

    Anyway, probably sound like an ad, but if any of you were considering it, definitely go demo it with your existing recorder and be prepared to be amazed.
  • Future camera body should take digital audio input...
  • Use iPhone as an XLR field recorder w/ $30 app:

    http://nofilmschool.com/2011/11/iphone-48khz-audio-field-recorder-xlr-inputs/

    I think this would also make a good match with it:

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/822394-REG
  • Agreed. IMHO, the impact on quality audio is essentially in this order:

    1) Audio operation (setting proper levels, actually pushing 'record' etc.)
    2) Mic placement
    3) Mic quality/appropriateness to task
    4) Preamp quality, bit depth

    So that means a few things to me as a filmmaker who aims to get the best possible quality with limited resources. Spend the time to run your gear right, put the mics in the right place, and all the rest and you're really getting about 80% of your maximum quality for free.

    If you have some money to spend, acquire some nicer mics -- like quality lenses, they'll outlast the recorder you initially use them with. Then as you can, upgrade your recorder.

    I find that on the rare occasions that I go right into the GH2, I get totally useable audio because I stick a decent mic on the other and and place it properly. Same goes for the Zoom H1 that I occasionally use. (Main problem with both the camera and Zooms is the handling noise.) The DR-680 actually cost me less than a GH2 and I suspect I'll use it longer. Spending a little on audio gear can be one of your best investments in making your footage LOOK better, but just getting a little education and practice placing mics and setting levels is where the real bang-for-the-buck is: no real cost, huge quality improvement.
  • Has anyone used the ART preamp with a Tascam DR100 or similar portable recorder? Inquiring minds would love to hear. I love my DR100 but the levels tend to be a little low with my Oktava mics.
  • 96k emperors old clothes to be honest - only thing I have mixed for TV/DVD at 96k rate was Miley Cyrus 7.1 - believe me she didn't sound any better lol You mix 24 bit for Dolby E onto D5 (while the SR tapes are still scarce in the UK) and music does benefit i.e. orchestral stuff, but to be honest after you've squished it to meet the 24dB +-2 moany CALM act levels our American cousins are using now - you'll have bat ears to notice 48k 24 bit or 16 bit 44.1k A well recorded dialogue through a quiet mic in the right place not pissing off lighting, the DOP and the artist > any tech you throw at it. 24 bit 96k 8 channel Deva (or whatever) recordings still make me facepalm in the mix if the mics not actually anywhere near the artist, I used to lug a Nagra around - you lot got it easy ;p
  • You can´t disable it, but lower the amount that far that it will be ok for most uses.

    http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/1152
  • I just wish the hack would let you disable AGC...seriously what a damn pain in the ass that is. Why did the engineers think it was a good idea in the first place?
  • I was doing pro sound for a while and the Zoom h4n is just as capable as the sound devices 702. Of course the sound devices sounds better to me but no one is willing to pay for that better quality and the zoom is fine enough - what is more important is a high end mic (I use the sanken cs-3e) and lots of batteries. I am selling a used zoom (in original packaging) for $150 obo. It's only issue is the usb jack doesn't work but using the zoom as an audio interface works poorly anyway - and you can get a memory card ready for your pc for $5.

    I got to hear some movies I did with the Zoom actually play at Sundance 11 last year in a huge auditorium and the dialogue sounded great, and that was the combo I used. Really could not tell the difference at that point on dialogue. I don't bother with 96... waist of space.. 24 bit however is very helpful as it ads some headroom, so I record 24bit 48k and split the mono left channel to stereo mono with the menus. The on board mics are great for capturing ambient sound and sfx just get a good windscreen and set them to 120 not 90.



  • Anyone used a Beachtek DXA-SLR to feed directly into the GH2? It's got a AGC Disable feature, meaning it will generate a high tone at constant dB to fool the AGC. It can then be easily removed in post. Together with an external recorder, it is neat solution, I think, to have everything covered.
  • At the absolute no/lo budget end of things, I tested my rode videomic pro with a refurbed zoom H1 last night. Imported the wavs into our 5.1 surround mix room and our sound guy pronounced the files 'extremely clean'. It's plasticky and cheap, but I'd use it for interviews, no problem. Cost me 59gbp.
  • The problem is that fundamentally a greater sampling rate does not = greater quality. This is because of the fundamental way digital audio works.

    44k is 100% able to recreate ALL frequencies up to 22khz. So unless you want to communicate with Dolphins and Whales there is no point in recreating ultrasonic frequencies.

    @driftwood from what I have read/discovered oversampling in audio is a bit of a black art/issue. Many artists comment that with access to the 'best' equipment different sample rates can 'sound' different. So most of the time converting sample rates can detract from sonic quality.

    What people are doing now for better audio is getting higher quality converters. This is where the real quality is. Companies like Apoggee create devices that sound like a million dollars at 96 & 44. So then it depends on what you need to use it for. For slowing down- sure- use higher sample rates- but then again software is getting amazing!

    YMMV
  • @DouglasHorn The zoom stuff goes upto 96KHz, that's not to say I always use it, but Ive done the SAW, Notator, cubase, Logic route over the years myself and with recording live acts and bands it comes in useful now and again to have quality from where you can dither down from - especially, and probably the only real reason its useful for is; when it comes to using effects, sound processing and mastering.
    There's something about being able to master down to 48k/44k knowing everything has been assembled with oversampling. But your absolutely right, there's not much to tell when we listen between 44k, 48k and 96k.
  • @sanzadz - I'd recommend devoting as much budget as you can to acquiring good sound if you're making a feature. It'll save you in the long run (and maybe save your project). Maybe renting, borrowing, or hiring an operator with gear is a better route than buying. Remember mics, cables, mixers, etc. You really want a boom mic if your project is narrative.

    @driftwood - Something I learned fairly recently is that recording at 96KHz really only matters if you plan to slow down your audio. I used to think it improved audio like going to 24-bit but according to a seasoned post sound guy I was working with, it just fills up your cards twice as fast without any ultimate improvement in quality of 48KHz. FYI.

    @neveraholiday - I wonder if you could replace the HDD in a 744T with a SSD. Silent, low power consumption. I wonder if SoundDevices will come out with any new audio-only recorders. It seems like they may be going the AV recorder route.

    Not to sound crazy here, but for all the hassles that are involved with synching double-system sound, I think it's preferable on narrative projects. I'm in the middle of editing a rather large projects (ten episodes of a series) shot on GH2s and 5Ds (and a T3i), and one thing I've noticed is that on all these DSLRs is that sound is ahead of picture by 1-3 frames depending on the model. FCP7 doesn't have an easy way (that I know of) to slip audio by this amount. So synching audio is actually a better process than having to slip each cut of a track after locking picture.

    Has anyone else encountered this? Workarounds?
  • Our budget crew has got an H4n, but the handling noise with the on boards is shocking, and the preamps are quite noisy.

    I still quite like what it is, and its price, but we'll be taking steps to improve the inputs by sticking a Sound Devices MixPre-D in front of it. The Zoom then becomes just a signal recorder, and backup. This also gives us flexibility to record to GH2 simultaneously, or just on its own for run and gun.
  • I use the H4N with Rode NTG-2s and the Zoom R16 (its lightweight, and 8 tracks of recording at the same time with 96khz) with a set of matched pair of SE 1A overheads, plus a stack of shure's if I need them for live events. Also a G3 sennheiser wireless set. Love the Zoom stuff.
  • @mrbill
    my question is primarily about the quality of the tascam dr-07. I know in this thread a lot of people are talking about the dr100, but right now the dr-07mkII fits in to my price range. Thus I am just asking if it would be suffice, if anyone has any experience with it.
  • Even if you have a budget don't ADR lol
  • Without wishing to sound like a smart ass, your question is pretty much answered by the posts above. I would involve your sound recordist in the convesation, if you're lo-budget and presumably don't have much set aside for ADR.