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Panasonic GH1 - Film Mode Settings
  • 114 Replies sorted by
  • @producer
    Producer, I think it would do you a lot of good to read others' comments and my previous comments concerning color-correction, "film-look", camera settings etc. I'm sorry, but I can't accept that video you linked to be called "excellent work". If that is excellent work, then what would you call a really good short film that has good story, good acting, meaningful cinematography and color correction that compliments everything else? What would you call Baraka or the Tree of Life? So it would be more appropriate to call it "Another boring/half-decent test video with unmotivated and technically poor color-grading"
  • Hi - nice shots, but it's not really a video is it? Just another of those tedious, slightly slo-mo bits of test footage with some cheesy titles and random music stuck over the top.

    If someone wants to be a stills photographer, go and do that, stay away from video. I don't mean to offend anyone, but this is just lazy and I get really sick of seeing this "genre".
  • Sorry, it's not exactly about the topic and Panasonic, but I just couldn't resist to share this excellent work of a compatriot:
  • Nice, LPowell, thanks for saying how you did the lighting. Have you discovered the joys of Cinefoil? I think it's great stuff for creating impromptu barn doors or even lens hoods (thought of that last one when I dug my Optex anamorphic out yesterday and had a go with it - it does seem to flare in uncontrolled lighting).

    I love the velvety look of your shot!
  • There is no need to use 5d2rgb. Most of the newely released NLE deals with rgb without problem. Just set gamma properly and you will see everythintg in shadows and blown out whites. Every time when you convert video with 5d2rgb you just shrink rgb spectrum from 0-255 to 16-235. So you obviously loosing data. Try newest version of Adobe Premiere or Edius 6 or Sony Vegas above r9. In some NLE's in clip properties there is even option Super Black. (Sorry for my english. I hope you understand what am I talking about)
  • The G2 video actually benefitted from the Vimeo compression, which smoothed over the G2's gritty low-light noise. Both G2 and GH1 videos were shot in Smooth Film Mode (-2 Contrast & NR), wide-open at f1.8-2.0, 1/60 shutter, and ISO400. I used a Canon FD 28mm lens with an Optex anamorphic on the GH1, and a Konica Hexanon 40mm with an ISCO Widescreen 2000 anamorphic on the G2.

    The major effort, however, was lighting the room to look dark and sharp without crushing all the near-black details. The lights I custom built using a mixture of selected fluorescent bulbs and diffusers. Everything was carefully angled and deflected to eliminate glare and unintentional highlights. The actress was illuminated and directed with the intent of only partially revealing the details of her face and body in each frame. These outtakes have numerous flaws, but they do a good job of illustrating the look I was after.
  • I know G2 is weaker than GH, just that's what I had as a choice at that moment...
    LPowell, thank you for the comparison between GH1 and G2. Meanwhile, which lens did you use with both cameras? Also, do you remember all the exact settings you used for those two videos in every of the two cameras? I'm really interested in the settings of the modes, color profiles and changes, ISO, F-stop, Shutter, etc. G2 video looks kinda blurry, weird...
    Thanks!
  • Thanks lpowell.

    @Producer GH17 > G2. GH17 is missing the touchscreen, but I rarely use GH2's touchscreen.
  • +1 on exposure/lighting/reflectors
  • Love it!

    Makes sense what you say about the sensor / encoding. I love what my GH2 does - any fiddling around is much better done with exposure / lighting / reflectors (IMO).
  • CineStyle's logarithmic luminance curve is a good mathematical simulation of the way film responds to light. However, nothing can change the electrical behavior of the camera's CMOS image sensor, whose photocells respond in a strictly linear proportion to light. CineStyle's technique relies on the high-resolution 14-bit linear image sensor output to produce something like a 10-bit logarithmic curve. The GH2 has neither the 14-bit sensor resolution nor a way to reprogram the luminance curve before it's fed into the encoder.

    Fortunately for me, I'm delighted with what the GH1 produces straight out of the camera, regardless of whether it's anything close to an authentic "film look". Of course, my personal sense of aesthetics could probably be described as more "lurid" than "lyrical" (and yes her face is intentionally blurry):



    My advice to Producer is to ditch the G2 and upgrade to a GH1. The G2 just can't cut it in sketchy lighting. Here's that same take shot with a G2 from a different angle:

  • @fatpig: "I think MrAnthony thought, that the flat-look was to be kept in your movie as-is."

    No, that was the point I was making--Producer keeps begging for the "film-look" and citing the flat images as what he wants. It won't matter for him though, because no matter how flat you make the image, it can't make up for bad exposure and bad lighting. He doesn't seem to understand this and keeps thinking that a flat-look is a panacea, when it's not.

    What's funny to me is that film has different looks anyway, depending on the film stock as well as post-processing. It's easier to just understand that the GH1 produces its own look, which can be made more film-like (e.g. 24p settings, smooth film settings, etc.), but it will take some work to make it look like it was shot with 35mm film. Even with the examples he gave about how Canon can do this and that, Producer ignored tons of facts (like House has lighting specialists, people to do post-production, a big budget) in search of a magic hack to give a "film-look." I like how he talks about wanting to bring up details in blacks, but if its too dark (like from his bad lighting), you can't rescue it, so he blames the camera for not having a cinehack. You can't make chicken soup from chicken $h!t.

  • Actually the guy looks like Helicopter Ben!!
  • Watching that video makes things pretty clear. He's basically talking about a log curve applied in-camera that you decode in post. To quote from elsewhere on the Technicolor site:

    "Acquisition with Technicolor’s CineStyle will generate what appears to be a flat, de-saturated looking image. While this image may appear unappealing and undesirable, it is in fact an ideal starting point for post-production and color correction. To properly color correct and/or view footage shot with Technicolor CineStyle we recommend utilizing a S-curve shaped look-up table (LUT) in your editing or color correction application. You may download such a LUT using the links provided. If your editing or color correction application does not offer the ability to import and use LUTs, other controls like the ASC CDL, Lift/Gamma/Gain, or Offset/Power/Slope can be used to color correct the image."

    However, I assume this ability to record a log curve is not possible on GH2 so I'm personally happy to continue trying to maximise the dynamic range there currently is in the GH2 and keep to the least post-processing I can get away with. But that's me - my experience has been with much lesser technologies (BetaCam, DV and even hi-8 / SVHS), which force you to try to get good images out of correct lighting / exposure etc because any attempt at post-production was pretty pointless. One big strength of the GH2 and other cameras, is that you can do much more in post - but of course, you still have to shoot knowing the limitations of your camera, whatever it is. But I think many people have already said that!
  • stonebat, youre right surely, but i think we established that better dr and 10 bit is not going to come to gh2, so flat picture style is really all we have, right?

    vitaliy- is a flatter picture profile a possibility with hack?
  • This is kinda getting interesting... but what GH series really needs is better DR out of a sensor in the first place. Then 10-bit codec. Then such flat color profile.

    BTW the guy looks like the architect from Matrix.
  • A movie maker friend of mine told me once that you can't effectively work on colors in post with GHx or DSLRs, I presume the "problem" is to not have RAW format out of our cameras. He also told me that the point in shooting with post in mind was because shooting in professional productions is far more expensive than fixing in post. For cheap independent works, it looks a better idea to keep the files as they are, and re-do shooting if necessary.
  • I think MrAnthony thought, that the flat-look was to be kept in your movie as-is.

    edit: just tried 5dtorgb, and it does not seem to do any difference on GH2, but it could be my source material is too dark.
  • this video should really clear up the mess in this thread, he explains it all, and nothing to argue ;) vitaliy: is there a possibility of something like this in GH2?
  • Very interesting, especially that they had to work directly with Canon engineers to get access to the signal. I highly doubt Panasonic is going to ever help you out!

    @ Producer: Since you can't afford to even get another camera and you can't be bothered to learn exposure or lighting, I highly doubt you'd learn how to properly color process in post. I don't feel the need to show you jack, since you don't know your gear, don't know your software, and don't want to learn lighting. You're good at logos on your videos though.
  • Here is small video with recent interview about Technicolor
  • fatpig, who said something different? Another person who gets the right point. Of course, that's the general purpose of the flat image which to be processed in post especially for color grading, keeping much more details mostly in the darks/blacks - that's what I was trying to explain to some persons here who highly misunderstand it; and that's why all the budget camcorder have it integrated.
  • I think 5dtoRGB is stunning, as it reveals a ton of detail in the shadows, which i would have sworn, is not there in the first place. What I think is missed here- is that the FLAT look is not to be kept in the picture, but is a good starting point for color-correcting the footage, as it keeps more detail in the shadows aswell as in the light areas, for me flat would be superb- but to colorgrade it afterwards!
  • "And yes, I think it's a crappy look, that flat-look you keep pushing. One need only look at the marvelous film technicolor images, beautifully saturated and photographed, to see why that flat look isn't the only way to make something "film-like." Look at Gone with the Wind, the Wizard of Oz, and The Adventures of Robin Hood, for example. They do not have that flat look at all. "
    I was right in my conclusion about you. I don't break out into abuse about the way you like a look to be, why do you feel so nervous about my criteria which is highly appreciated long ago before me?!? Still curious to see something yours although I think I know what to expect.
  • @ Producer: Quit trolling. Try reading and listening for a change. Even in the link you cited, there's a whole section you ignored on the post-processing to get those images as well as the huge financial investment to get those images. Sheesh.

    And yes, I think it's a crappy look, that flat-look you keep pushing. One need only look at the marvelous film technicolor images, beautifully saturated and photographed, to see why that flat look isn't the only way to make something "film-like." Look at Gone with the Wind, the Wizard of Oz, and The Adventures of Robin Hood, for example. They do not have that flat look at all.

    Again: learn about lighting, metering, and how to use your equipment. I guarantee that those things will pay off more than any hack. If you take a good class in photography and lighting, you will be a better photographer.

    As for your rants citing "House" and other shows, remember that they have a ton of money and a ton of people using lots of expensive software to do all the post-processing they want. When those places achieve their final images straight out of the camera, then come here and cite them.

    Otherwise, please stop wasting everyone's time asking for some kind of magic hack to replace basic exposure and lighting skills. If you properly lit your subjects and exposed correctly (and properly selected the correct settings on your equipment, which you clearly don't know how to use), you would achieve the initial look you seek which you could post-process to your heart's desire. If, on the other hand, you insist on exposing incorrectly and refuse to properly light your subjects, then nothing will help.