I can record a video with sound in auto mode by turning a selection wheel to M S A or P. However when chose a select MovieM icon, there is no sound recorded. Any expert in here can guide me to proper setting? I've found what was wrong with my setting. Never mind.

Can anybody tell me why GH3 is doing so much strobo to me ?

shoted to .mov at 50p shutter 1/100 is there any secret settings in gh3 for smooth motion ? which shutter speed are u using for 50p ? 180° rule ? thank you

@cuteditor I dont know, it pretty much just like the way 24/25 fps footage does. Its not as smooth at 30 fps, but I dont see anything out of the ordinary.

I know about that problem with 60Hz monitors, and that isn't a issue here, because those flickering appears on camera screen during recording too, not only in playback on monitor. Also, I'm aware of problems when filming under flourescent light, but I was shoot under normal daylight conditions. Now I can't upload video to share with you, but I'll do it tomorrow. Thanks, anyway!

Maybe you can post a clip of the problem. Im not sure I understand what you mean by flickering. When you view 24p footage on monitors with 60Hz refresh rates, you will see what most people refer to as "judder", because you cannot evenly divide 60 by 24. Some frames are shown longer than others because of this, and that can make 24p footage look jerky.

Oh, I wonder if you are filming under flourescent lights? You will see flicker at certain shutter speeds especially under flourescent lighting.

@cuteditor It sounds like you may have sharpening up too high on your color profile. Try turning it down to -3, or even off! You can always sharpen in post, but if you will not be doing that, -3 or -2 tends to help stop some of the flickering from the in-cam sharpening, which isnt the best.

@JulienMisc ...

Yea, with this cam you need to get your highlight exposure nailed. Deal with the shadows as best you can later, and ... if one tries to get too cutesy by really going flat to attempt to get a wider dynamic range, yep ... noise and sometimes wonky colors.

But stay within those needs, and as mentioned in my other post, it does quite nice work and grades beautifully. I haven't tried FilmConvert ... did try some things in PrPro, found I didn't quite mentally "bond" with the color correction controls there, tried Speedgrade and went ... oh ... huh ... what the ???? ... oh ... now, yea .... and got lost in the program. For hours at a time. Out of sheer enjoyment of working the controls. Speedgrade's not particularly well documented in manuals and such ... so one needs to look around at say lynda-dot-com tutorials and all. But once you start picking up on how other folks work in it, and especially the CC workflow ... so fast betwixt PrPro->Sg->PrPro and all, it's great.

But ... try lifting shadows, um ... not so good. Shoot to protect the highlights & balance that against shadow needs/supplemental lighting, and it's all wonderful.

In order of course in the menu it's contrast, sharpness, saturation, & noise reduction. So ... here goeth some advice.

First, this is NOT a Log or RAW camera. When we first got 'em a couple years back, like everyone else, I immediately jumped on the ALL-I bandwagon and set all the above options to -5 to get the flattest possible image. NOT wise, as it turned out. Not at all. After many experiments personally, and participating here and reading/viewing what others tried and were finding ... and some of the posts were rather critical of Panny & the GH3 in particular ... "we" found it wise to back off a bit. Take the camera as it is for what it does do, which ... it does really pretty decently at.

Second, you can shoot this thing both for direct-delivery with a wide range of settings in-cam, including the artsy modes, and many do. Or you can shoot it for best post/grading workflow, as I do. I've never played much with any of the artsy stuff, i-whatevers and all, but many have, and have done cool things with them. So understand my settings are for a post-processing workflow that includes PremierePro & Speedgrade.

Third ... ALL-I hasn't been as nifty as we'd hoped. Most of us don't use it, really, as it can be noisier at times, especially with sort of blocky noise. I find AVCHD a bit of a pain, and as the MOV seems to work great, it's simpler to work with afterwards. Also some found more noise in AVCHD than the MOV.

I shoot in Natural with the below settings on realistically everything. I know where I am & what I'm getting. Some have other preferences, of course. I tried "Portrait" and that just seems to make the skin tones worse.

Camera settings:

NAIL EXPOSURE IN-CAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There is no way to over-emphasize the above. You do NOT have the dynamic range to recover anything unless you are shooting in say a very flat-lit studio settings. STRONGLY suggested you learn to use an incident light meter and know where your highlights will fall. Shadows can be set to black to get rid of noise, but ... banded or blown highlights are forever!

CUSTOM WHITE-BALANCE!

Again, you don't have the data down-stream to "re-set" your white-balance the way I've been used to with say the RAW still files off my Nikon D3. Get your WB as close to 'normal' in-cam during exposure, then modify it in grading later.

Contrast: -3

You can set it anywhere ... but lower doesn't get you anymore detail recorded, it just "raises" the visible shadows with their accompanying noise, and higher contrast settings can lose some data occasionally.

Sharpness: -3

Doesn't "hurt" my footage here, doesn't "help" it either ... best possible world in in-cam sharpening. First caveat, of course, "do no harm", right?

Saturation: -1

Yea, I was LOW sat for a while ... but the colors sometimes would be ... a bit unique, perhaps? ... in totally relying on sat gains in post. Also remember, contrast and saturation are the two main parts of image information, realistically ... raising contrast affects saturation and vice-versa. Dropping both way down seems to limit the total information recorded ... not the right technical way of saying it, but in effect "true". Widest range of detail capture seems to be done by going low on contrast, low/middling on saturation.

Noise Reduction: -4

Ok, not the best part of the Panny design ... so most people set it pretty low. YMMV, of course.

With the above settings, I can go into PrPro & edit, then over to Sg to grade, and it ... works. And grades rather well. Other than a LUT I've made using LUT Buddy (and a similar "Look" in Sg) to sort of get past the dang skin tone thingie Panny did to this camera. A secondary on skin tones to slightly increase contrast in magenta/reds in the mids, and change magenta hue slightly to red (less blue), seems to make the skin a bit more "real".

​Hello, I have read all the 32 pages and I'm full of technical details. Thank you first of all because you have helped me with various information. I have done also many tests with the custom settings as all of you. I have read and tested various and various combinations. I believe it's no use to upload my test videos.

I have lenses leica 25mm f1.4 and I have got this camera most for indoor videos, especially for low light rooms, that's why I bought this lenses. From what I have seen from GH3, I'm very impressed.

Some things that I have noted:

1) In low light and using tripod or moving the camera, I'm using AVCHD (1080p-50p (PAL)) as the frame rate it's more smooth and not choppy and it's a bit brighter and with less noise as it is in MOV. If the video is static I can use MOV.

2) In good light (e.g. outdoor) I believe MOV FHD 50p is the best but I have not done many tests and I'm not sure.

3) I'm using AFS/AFF focus because the others I think have awkward focus

4) ISO 1600 because the other ISOs are not so good

5) Menu, Video, Exposure - set to P. I tested with M and some shutter speed combinations e.g. 1.x/30 or 1.x/50 but more or less is the same with P. For instance 1.6/30 is brighter but choppy, 2.0/100 is darker with lot of noise, so I believe it's fine with P.

6) I had taken as granted the -5 sharpness because everyone in this forum was referring to and also some youtube guides. I had also used many -5 in the settings as a flat image but the thing is that when you have flat video, you have to rely so much afterwards in post production and filtering / plugins, etc. Why!?! Why don't you just take a normal video with normal settings, eg 0 0 0 0 and then you do whatever you want if it's necessary? So, the -5 sharpness didn't work for me but +5 worked (!)

7) So the portrait with combination ONLY +5 sharpness (0,+5,0,0) had very good image to me !! And I have put in Sony Vegas and I just add brightness & more contrast (one setting only) and voila. It was just fine. No other settings.

8) Just for the record (I don't know if I will use these again in the future) in standard custom, the -5 -5 -2 -5 had a good brightness and the -5 -5 0 -5 had good colors. I haven't seen a lot of differences between AVCHD and MP4. Same bit rate, same file size and the quality in the video is more or less the same.

Starios I'm near to Athens and maybe we could go out some day for a chat (se kammia kafeteria pou exei gemisei o kosmos..).

So....

Been using the GH3 for a while now - probably the best part of a year. I've tried a few different settings, but still haven't really found any that blow me away - with skintones always a bit of a problem. I can get some decent looks - especially when I'm lighting and it's not a doc approach - but I'm working 'round the look, rather than having the look work for me.

Here's the latest thing I've shot - it's a teaser for the feature I'm making in August. I'm only going to use the GH3 as a B-cam, and for some slow-mo on the shoot, with a BMPCC as the A-Cam. It's a shame, but it just doesn't give me enough flexibility in the look...

I loved my GH3 but the GH4 is a big step up. 4K downsampled to 1080 looks damn good. But, if you don't care for that.. the zebras, focus peaking and better OLED are really nice too.

No particular concept in this video, just trying to push as always gh3 in the extremes.

@Draksider

You can change video levels in your graphics card settings or maybe your player settings. If you want to see full range of GH3 mov video levels you must choose 16-235 in graphics card video color settings.

Windows media player has no color settings but many others has. I use Potplayer. I can change video levels whatever I want in Potplayer so I can make some kind of "grading" in real time. For example I has overexposed skiing videos which looks fine when I make color correction preset for them in Potplayer. In fact I has many color settings for different cameras and situations. All settings in Potplayer can be saved as presets including color corrections, sharpening, noise reduction and even zooming. It is funny to use smooth zooming during playback and see how sharp GH3 videos really are.

Potplayer is also handy because it shows videos seemingly without any black screen between files. It is like watching edited result.