I tested several myself but not the MaxLights as the CRI was below 90. The BlueMax meter around 5500. I didn't see a green spike, and when I used a custom balance with a grey card the light came out very good. The BlueMax was the only bulb I tested that I considered quiet enough to set 4-8 feet from a Schoeps or Sennheiser microphone. Removing a hum from four our five different bulbs is a tedious task. Most mics are not sensitive enough to really pick up that hum, but these are.

@lpowell, As a favor, please put one up to your ear and see if it is silent. If it is, I will buy some to test.
Let me know about the hum, I'm supercurious.

The 93+ CRI of the bluemax bulbs makes a difference. Colors sparkle and pop.
I see that the MaxLight has a CRI of just 84 unless I'm misreading it. But I'm always up for trying a new light, if it is silent.

As for the triphosphors, BlueMax claims to use a six color system. I don't know enough about CFLs to say whether that is better than a three color system or if it is just advertising, but the colors do pop.

The Ephotoinc stands are perfectly fine. They aren't as good as my Manfrottos, but I got two stands, two double bulb fixtures and two Weifeng umbrellas, plus four useless 45 watt cfls for very cheap. But that's OK, I have a portable, lightweight two stand system for quick setups to go with my heavier stuff. Sometimes cheap is OK.

You can see a comparison chart here that includes HomeDepot, etc., but it does not included the 5000K Maxlight, just the "warm" one which has the same CRI.
Sunwave also scores high.
http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/BlueMax_cfl_comparison.htm

@DrDave
In my opinion, these ultra-cheap fluorescent light stands should be labeled "disposable". The aluminum parts in the fixture sockets are so fragile that you can literally torque them to shreds simply by tightening the light bulb. It's not just the ones on eBay, every socket fixture I could find on Amazon is based on the same flimsy design. I resorted to installing short socket extenders into each fixture to handle the routine wear and tear of mounting the light bulbs before each session.

The white balance of the cheap fluorescents supplied with these fixtures is usually no better than that of cheap LED's. They typically have a huge green spike with some blue phosphor added to pull up the measured color temperature to 5500K or higher. The result is a very cold white light with a greenish-yellow tinge. High quality fluorescents use a tri-phosphor coating that keeps the green component under more consistent control. The difference between tri-phosphors and the cheaper halo phosphors is briefly explained here:

http://osumaterials.wordpress.com/2009/09/07/a-lesson-in-phosphors-and-some-cool-pictures/

I tested a half dozen brands of fluorescents before finding a type that produced healthy skin tones and did not turn mustard-colored fabrics green. To my eyes, 5500K is too cold for fluorescents; 5000K looks just warm enough. I also think the high-wattage spiral-tube fluorescents are too fragile for field work, especially considering the mercury hazard they contain. Some manufacturers seal the spiral-tube bulb inside a traditional cone-shaped floodlight bulb with a built-in reflector coating on the back. This double-bulb construction is far more robust than the naked spiral-tube lamps.

One of the best features of screw-base fluorescents is how easily and cheaply they can be replaced when they fail. The brand I settled on is not as large and high-wattage as others; it was instead the most well-balanced and sturdiest of the ones I tested:

http://www.greenelectricalsupply.com/23-watt-cfl-r40-flood-daylight-5000k.aspx

The outdoor version of this lamp has a larger and heavier outer bulb and costs 50% more, but is worth it for rugged environments:

http://www.greenelectricalsupply.com/23-watt-par38-flood-cfl-dl.aspx

If you want el cheapo instant light, ephotoinc has two stands, two shine through umbrellas, two double socket fixtures, and four 45 watt cfl for about $60-$70. That's like $6 per item, plus a case. Their stuff is solid but not tank like.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-BULBS-DOUBLE-HEAD-VIDEO-UMBRELLA-LIGHT-LIGHTING-SET-/360418642957?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53eaa00c0d
I actually prefer these to the softboxes, but I have some of each. You can swap out the bulbs for something special, like the blu max, but that's a whole setup with stands.

Fresnel turned into LED fresnel which turned into Fluorescents. I like it.

Actually the title is misleading. I was looking for a good lighting solution that wouldn't break my bank.

@Meierhans ok. I've noticed that many of my lamp sockets are rated for 100W or less. But I guess it shouldn't be a problem finding some that will be ok with 150W. Will keep looking :)

@Meierhans wow, that's cheap for the amount of light. Wonder how well they work for video. Also, what kind of lamp socket is apropriate for this kind of bulb? Any suggestions? :)

As lpowell says heat is an issue. I get decent results with Blue Max CFLs. They range up to 50 watts. The bulbs have a filler that is bound to the Mercury in case you break a bulb. They are quiet enough to mount near a microphone. The CRI on these is 93+, and I have to say it appears that the colors do look better. I don't like fluorescent light as a rule, but these are decent. My LED lights don't light up the room like these do. http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/23w_powercompact_65_prd1.htm

@stonebat - "If portability is not an issue..."

Clore Automotive JNC660 1700 Peak amp 12-Volt Jump Starter
http://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-JNC660-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2

Samlex SSW-350-12A Pure Sine Wave Inverter
http://www.amazon.com/Samlex-SSW-350-12A-Pure-Sine-Inverter/dp/B004OU2VRC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1323794879&sr=1-1

http://www.samlexamerica.com/customer_support/pdf/SlickSheets/SSW-350-12A_Samlex_Specifications.pdf

I am trying to get more info.
Wait a little :-)

These are not studio lights which is quite clear from the ENG name. And for reporter's needs Sola ENG has plenty of output. 3900 lux from 4ft in spot mode - that's a MASSIVE overkill for most interview situations. TV studios are typically lit at 1000 lux.
http://www.litepanels.com/language/pages/sola_eng.php

Ledzilla is surely not quite as powerful.

Litepanels has powerful studio models in Sola line as well. Quite expensive, though.

B&H has both for instance. Even a bit cheaper than I claimed.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/687491-REG/Litepanels_906_1002_SolaENG_3_LED_Fresnel.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/624594-REG/Dedolight_DLOBML_Ledzilla_Mini_LED_Daylight.html

There are two LED Fresnel models on the market: Litepanels Sola ENG and Dedolight LEDzilla. Both are around $600-700 and fully focusable. Sole ENG has more output to be a really versatile fill/portrait light. No battery socket and fan noise, though. LEDzilla's output is too weak in fill mode, so it's primarily a portable light-weighted portrait light with quite expensive accessories.

The question is: where are these Chinese copycats when they are needed badly?