Thanks @Vicharris I was waiting your comment.

I finished shooting the colored backlight flare tests. Results are amazing. Different behavior in each lens coating.

For the backlight I used a strong 1000w halogen hardlight (we call it sungun) with a dimmer to control the light power. (sorry for burning "non eco safe" / "non green" incandescent light, but they are the best looking light source)

I used 6 sheets of colored gels in front of the light: blue, green, yellow, red-orange, red, and pink of course! 42 usd in these sheets! I used two kind of red because sometimes the pure red get a magenta cast and a small orange tint in the red gel allows to avoid this so I added the red-orange to the test. I will edit it and upload soon.

Also I will edit another video: How the fstop diaphragm affects the flares and How the light intensity affects the flares.

When I was shooting the colored backlight tests I found the flares horizontal dimension changes when the fstop changes.

Fast fstops allows more wide flares, more horizontally stretched. Slow fstops allows smaller flares, more horizontally squeezed / shortened. The vertical dimensions of the flares does not change anyway.

The backlight intensity can make the flares more thin or a little more fat in the overall appearance. Also there is a range where the overdone backlight intensity starts to cause some blooming / glow / halo around the flares. To my taste avoid this is desired, but some small amount of these issues is good looking also.

You can control the backlight intensity using a dimmer (electronic light intensity control), different power lamps, nd gel sheets or changing exposure in camera (fstop, shutter, iso). To control the backlight intensity direct in the backlight will not change the exposure in front of the main subject. If you cannot control the backlight intensity (street shoots, and so on) you can add more light to the front of the subject to do a balance between the front and the backlight. Or you can just ignore light differences and just shoot... As a low budget guy I am always trying to get the best from available light and good images can be done under it.

It seems all my efforts will down the drain... Or would you prefer glass instead of digital simulation? Is this similar to the film grain x digital added film grain debate? I would like to know your opinions about this:

http://www.cineflare.com/anamorphics/

So the emotive moment has gone and now I will do the second coating test video: colored backlight and how do they affect the flare color in each coating. It is raining a lot here, so I need to wait the best day to do street shoots, this is why I started with inside shoots first.

@JohnBarlow Thanks! Do you believe I did not watch this classic movie until today? It is time to do it asap. Best thing I found now is I did not cry in the difficult moments, just in the end, in the successful moment, something like an outflow, a happy outflow after surpass all obstacles... Now I am feeling a good inner piece and it will be good for the work.

@silvertonesx24 I will build more units. stay tuned in the new video. thanks.

"Don't cry little fish, don't cry, don't cry"

http://uk.imdb.com/title/tt0028691/

I think I don't need to be shy to say when I was editing the video, after cut and lettering, I added the first music and when I hit play for the first time my eyes watered... I think this can be the theme song for "Apefoscope - The Man Behind The Glass" feature film (to dream is for free!)

If build Apefoscope is walk on water, make a movie is to fly, and to fly is not so easy... but to dream is easy and free!

Apefos, im very happy for you!!! You have produced a complete product. This shows your good will, and determination. I like very much the look of the coatings, and fuck!!! you even give us the choice of coating color, wich many top manufacturers dont even think about.. The price is very fair, and i think you should put made in brasil by apefoso, engrave it damnit!!!!!!!. Can i make you a logo and the box for your new APEFOSCOPE ? Is for free, i hope you like the idea.

I think the choice is a "personal view" , just trust your choice and be happy!

The schedule is: Finish building new units in January with the funds from the two first uncoated units sold on ebay and with Indiegogo funds (they are on the way). Finish coating tests until the end of December. Sell these first coated units in January. Sell the first new units in January and February. Start building more units in February with the funds from selling these first coated units. And so on... So yes 2013 will be the sale moment.

PS.: From now, after the coating tests, the units will be offered to donors first until fill their will. Feel free to start a waiting list (no prepayment required).

from September 12, 2012 - till December 19, 2012:

Thanks VK, PV, all followers, all posts, my donors, and God.

@apefos Awesome, I wasn't sure if I wanted to purchase the uncoated one or wait for the coated one, and I think for what I need I would like to wait for the coated one. I ask because I have a few 2x Schneider anamorphic lenses (the big brass ones) and while they are interesting, they produce NO flares whatsoever and dull haze around brightly lit points.I liked the LA7200 and modded it for close focus but I would always get aberration and it was never sharp at the edges which was very frustrating and unusable. I could rarely get the elements to line up nicely either and would always have subtle distortion.

Just curious, how much will the coated one cost?

@Vitaliy_Kiselev no problem!

Oh God, it is raining ice stones here! The day Apefoscope Final Units are getting ready the sky Gods and dead scientists got angry! Galilean, calm down!... I am your grandson!... (hey man, stop screaming towards the sky!)

Just waiting lens cement to dry!

Time to lunch now. Assembling is working in progress.

@Meierhans I did not understand the comparison with used cars.

@Vitaliy_Kiselev In the old 35mm adapter times, there was lots of people trying to build adapters, so I developed mine and I found when people started to scold, threaten, disagree, they were trying to make me say things I was keeping for myself. Or maybe run away with me due to competition. In that time I was banned from one forum site and some time after I found the brother of the site owner was a 35mm adapter manufacturer also.

I am thinking about to do 4 videos: candle light, spot light with different source colors, street shoots, and the adapter review (fstop test, chromatic aberration test, center and corner sharpness test, build quality). Depending on the results of these videos maybe I can consider the project successful. So it seems the moment to completely stop posting in this topic is arriving for me...

Improve light transmission was a goal, but avoid unwanted reflections was a goal also, Both was a main goal and work together, when you avoid the reflection more light will pass through, when you increase the light pass through it will decrease the reflection... they are inverse proportional. Increase the light transmission is important to make fast lenses, avoid reflection is important to make the lens usable. (in the Apefoscope case, the uncoated version is usable because it has few lens elements, so it will not decrease the light transmission significantly and the flares will be pronounced, but usable and with the feature of keep same light source color in the flare.)

about the "bullshit" you said quoting the reflections colors, I will let the next video answer it. An image is better than one thousand words.

Now it is 7:30 am here and I will go to the office/workshop to continue the assembling job. It is time to work more than talk!