You are right. Sedna has more detail than Orion. Will fix that.
Nick (Driftwood) is always primarily concerned with improving quality. Second to that is satisfying the needs of, for example, documentary shooters who want spanning. Sedna followed Quantum so Sedna is an attempt to 'better' quantum and its various matrices. He provides these 'updates' free of charge and for the benefit of the community. There's no go to update that will satisfy the needs of everyone. It's a £600 camera that is being pushed a lot further than its maker intended.
Unfortunately you have to read a lot and ask questions, but never demand. My understanding from reading these forums is that HBR will never be as good as 24p because of the interlaced wrapper business. And I don't think the gh2 will ever be a 'great' low light performer, but it's still good. I've shot at 1600 ISO and used a denoising filter...the results are acceptable. The best thing to do though is light your scene and stay within ISO 160 - 800 (don't forget the ISO bug though!)
I'm using Sedna A Q20 and have found that there is more latitude when grading when compared to earlier releases. I'm only interested in shooting 24H(p). In Nick's opinion (I think?) Mysteron and Mysteron Burst are theoretically better than Sedna (but they are experimental and some are saying they don't grade as well). Canis will be the best for 24H(p) when Nick releases it, but for other modes...who knows? There are too many variables to have a one update fits all solution if maximum quality is your prime goal. Horses for courses I'm afraid, but Nick always provides enough information about his updates so that you can make informed decisions.
Best of luck
@thepalalias Quantum X (v4d Orion) CBR with 'Dark Matter v3' Matrix. firmware v1.1 and ptools 3.64d '200212 Can the same patch Q v4 be used with v1.11 requires ptools 3.65D. I am not sure, I seem to be getting subtle anomalies such as weird shimmering lights after coding and what seems to be loss of sharpness. Could it be a Ptool incompatibility? And next time your testing let me know, Ill come down and help or ask more stupid questions. Thanks
@exilenorth I will definitely let you know next time we test.
The PTool 3.64D patches should still work with PTool 3.65D but my suggestion is to create two versions of .BIN file (one with PTool 3.64D and one with the newest 3.65D with FW 1.1) and do a controlled shot with one right after the other.
If the artifacts only show up in one vs. the other, we should be able to identify them in screen grabs and possibly debug the issue. If the two turn out to be similar, then it may be that the shooting conditions were the issue rather than the setting.
Appreciate the reply, @ignatius. Yep, these settings are free and if you don't like something, there's a money back guarantee. Fair enough :-)
I also made a donation because it's amazing what's been wrung out of this little camera!
In a previous life I was heavily into open source and I contributed a couple patches back and helped debug a few things. If I find anything interesting while shooting I'll report back, but when it comes to video I am still coming up to speed so I'll do the best I can.
Horses for courses makes sense. The replies today really helped fill in some blanks for me. I'm gathering the Driftwood series are highly 24p centered so today I grabbed GOP3ZILLA w/ Sedna to see if it works well for the modes I want to do most (VMM 80%, SH, HBR).
Regarding the "ISO bug" you mentioned, that's the one where you always choose a higher ISO by 1/3 stop and then go back down to the one you intend to shoot, right? I've been doing it but I wondered if it was solved in the 1.1 firmware and thought maybe I was just being superstitious.
@bmcent1 Yeah I think v1.1 maybe fixed it cause I never seem to have to do that with my camera.
@DeShonDixon @bmcent1 Several other users have said that FW1.1 did not fix. I have continued watching out for it just in case.
@thepalalias Thanks I will do this over the weekend then post.
I picked up a DSC color chart at NAB. I plan to run some tests to see where the color accuracy is profile wise and how to compensate for it over the next couple of weeks. It surprises me how many people shoot without a color chart. http://dsclabs-us.intelex.ca/product.php?product_id=22
@Bueller Would be great to include it in the follow-up testing. :)
@BuellerBueller at that price it doesn't surprise me a bit... bitt.... bitty.... oh if I were a rich man a rich man an itty bitty rich man.
But... I am quite the opposite, and suspect many on this forum are even if they have allot of fancy kit. It's hard times for dreamers ;)
That's why it's great that there are those who can afford to test things that some of us can't.
Just been running a few tests of Sedna A Q20.
Aiming for high detail deep DOF shots with a Tokina 11-16 and an ND filter Aperture closed down to around f11 mostly. In camera I stuck to 200 400 or 800 iso and 1/50 shutter, I only shot at the highest bitrate 24H option in cinema 24. NR was -2 everything else -1 and 'Film Mode' was Nostalgic, exposure manual.
When I reviewed some of my shots they had a band down the right side of the shot that is about 1/10th of a stop darker than the rest of the shot. This didn't happen in all shots though.
I was able to fix it in post without too much trouble but wondered if there was something I was missing that could be causing it?
Here is an example, the first shot and last shot have the band of lower exposure (there are only 3 shots in the video).
And here is a graded version which corrects it -
Thanks in advance!
All Sedna Q20 B, nostalgic -2, edited and graded in premiere with magic bullet and stock plugins.
@MinorHD Really nice!
@DaleCampbell M43 is diffraction limited at around f/5.6. Avoid f/11.
@ssh would that explain a completely straight line down just the left hand side?
@ssh So you mean to say don't go above f5.6?
@DaleCampbell @jhero Yes, don't close your diaphragm beyond f/5.6 (M43), you will get fuzzies.
@ssh don't go over f 5.6 seems a little extreme...maybe can move these to another topic
@luxis f/8 is the diffraction limit, lenses typically perform better @ f/5.6 hence the above recommendation for the maximum sharpness, and yes, you are right, this is completely OT.
@thepalalias Well i dont know if it's the card. cause I got it from Amazon, in 24p it happens to record just fine without it stopping, only in Manual Movie and HBR Modes it stops sometimes randomly. When recording at ISO 12800 it just cannot get past 1min and a few seconds, the same goes for all the ISOs until 400 where I am able to record for a few minutes until it stops, that file also becomes unplayable in the camera and not allowing me to delete it.
To remind you, I am using Sedena Q20 'A' on a Sandisk 16GB Class 10 95Mb/s SD card, I think it's so ridiculous that I've spend alot to try and record high quality footage as I was not able to with my previous card but I still happen to get the same results! :( This needs to be fixed.
@GH2_Fan The Sedna setting have been optimized first and foremost for 24H. In other modes, if your scenes have too much detail, you may run into problems on any current card.
But for SH mode, I normally use Mysteron (which has very similar image quality and is the settings that Driftwood has pushed most recently). As you can see in this table, it spans properly in SH mode on the cards I have tested so far.
If you want to use HBR mode in Sedna Q20, I suggest trying Sedna Q20 C. On the 64GB card I recorded 17 minutes of spanning footage before it ended the recording on me and I had to start again. The other Sedna settings I tested so far did not span in HBR.
I have not been testing HBR very much. Is that the mode most important to you?
UPDATE: You are using PAL mode, right? Just want to make sure I am checking the right settings.
@GH2_fan i am using the same card and have no issues with mysteron it should span on 24H 24L and SH most likey HBR too but have not tested it yet since it is not something i need. i did have issues with the SH or FSH(or both) with sedna a1 b on this card whereas Mysteron/SH runs even on on class 4 15mbits san disk card without too much panning and extreme detail.
@thepalalias Thanks for letting me know, however I do want to record with as much detail as I can and there will be times that I want to have continous recordings like interviews or performances, yes it is PAL as I am in PAL land :D So it is essential for me to record in 50i and 25p.
It just seems that 24p is somehow the most stable, isnt there any way for anyone to somewhat 'fix' the other modes to have the same stability as 24p within the firmware??? I will make donation! :)
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