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GH3 Best Video Settings
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  • joetheprojoethepro

    @rNiel I disagree a little bit about never underexposing. I have had great success with a mild to moderate underexposure in shots where I wanted to preserve the highlights in a very contrasty scene. The GH3 holds so much detail in the shadows, and its grain is "high quality" i guess you could say, that when using something like Neat Video it clears up the noise perfectly. You may lose a slight bit of resolution and detail in those areas compared to a proper exposure with slightly blown highlights, but Neat Video brings almost all of it back with its awesome temporal filters.

  • surfculturesurfculture

    to continue my exploration of the calibration image from my GH3, my last video. Preset: all-intra 25p

  • yakyak

    My 2 cents on why 60p is as good or almost as good as 24p.

    "In All-I the compression is done in each frame is restricted to that one frame. In IPB, the compression is done across frames, by taking advantage of parts of the image that do not change from frame to frame."

    Since there is alot less movement between frames as 60P there is more interpolation, how much more... no clue. But a 60P All-I would be a very different story, It would halve the data. Not IPB.

  • maddog15maddog15

    @jonpais Good stuff. Very natural looking. What profile settings did you use?

  • jonpaisjonpais

    Here are some face shots I made with the GH3 at 24p. http://jonpais.wordpress.com/2014/02/10/faces/

  • stariosstarios

    Yep, probably not, sorry, it is not a conclusion :) I just find it strange that I cannot see any difference comparing with some friend's old nikon that when you set 50fps video becomes useless.

  • maddog15maddog15

    @starios "I am asking cause it looks to me like gh3 always shoots maximum fps and delete half frames,". Really? How did you come to this conclusion? Surely not.

  • stariosstarios

    @Mistas, about bandwidth and fps, it sounds reasonable that 30fps have more bandwidth than 60 per frame but I probably don't know how to test it in post, in my tests, shooting in 50fps(europe) and shooting at 25 image have same details in darks, same noise, same color, I probably don't know how to test it, could you or anyone upload an example of differences between 30-60 in same mbps. I am asking cause it looks to me like gh3 always shoots maximum fps and delete half frames, I hope not!

  • tosvustosvus

    @rNeil and @starios, thanks for more good insight! The last point about WB is one I made the same mistake on - used to shooting raw photos and never had a problem in post, but definitely something I should worry more about for video!

  • rNeilrNeil

    @starios ...

    Yea, pushing shadows 'up' is not a pretty sight, is it? On the Adobe forums I just "counseled" another still-shooter-now-shooting-GH3 to nail WB and exposure as tightly as possible in-cam. Especially to avoid under-exposing, as it is FAR better to expose flat & to the middle at a step higher ISO than slightly underexpose as step lower ISO. He's so worried about protecting his highlights he hadn't realized you have to balance those.

    And besides, shooting "flat" with quite low contrast and moderately low saturation settings is all about getting things as close to the middle in-cam as possible. One of the delightful things about hanging around here is all that I've learned about this from so many others here. :)

  • maddog15maddog15

    @starios Thanks a lot. I wish I had focused more on the sun shots. Those were my favs too.

  • stariosstarios

    @rNeil from my discoveries in gh3 and getting in mind a lot of opinions from pv: contrast -5 for DR and -3 or closer to 0 (never 0) for skin tones, sharpen almost never, saturation as you said -5 to -2, I am usually at -3 and in low light conditions the less noisy result for me is saturation -1 or even 0 and noise reduction 0 or +5 depends the light. If it is extremely dark :P it is better to go even at 6400 iso and grade it a bit darker lowering the mids than 1600 and pushing all the trash up, for sure this offers the most non pro result but in light infortunately gh3 has low limits :(

  • stariosstarios

    @maddog15 very very nice, the shots against the sun are amazing, very good cc, nice subject!!

  • rNeilrNeil

    @tosvus ...

    Depending on what subject/lighting you are shooting, contrast shouldn't go above -3 for studio or controlled lighting, and yea, sunlight like maddog15 was shooting is definitely -5 on the contrast.

    Sharpening ... the cam doesn't do the cleanest job of that, so if you plan to do any post-work on it, stay at -5 or highest -4. If you're going direct to say youtube you might go up to -3. By 0 ... not pretty if you're going to look at it past a small viewer.

    Saturation ... for post-processing in non-people shooting the pref's around here range between -5 and -2, with a few shooting sat at 0. If skin-tones are involved, you should probably try between -2 and 0.

    Noise reduction ... the cam is not the best option, so again ... looking at the settings suggested here you'll find -5 to -3.

    Again ... if you're going to pass the shots straight out to small web-viewing or things like that, you might take some of the settings to the higher side. If you're going to do any grading in post, stay to the lower side. Flatter original footage keeps highlight and shadow detail well past "normal" settings, typically is less noisy, and doesn't risk clipping either highlights or colors. Also ... do NOT under-expose or you will get noise in your shadows when you lift them in post ...

  • tosvustosvus

    @maddog15 Thanks! :) I will go with these settings too, seeing the results you are getting!

  • maddog15maddog15

    @rNeil @matt_gh2 Thanks guys. I really appreciate the feedback. Good and Bad!

  • matt_gh2matt_gh2

    @maddog15 Winter Shots video looks great - really pro stuff here. Well done.

  • rNeilrNeil

    @maddog15

    Nice job ... liked the winter "feel" to your grade.

  • maddog15maddog15

    @tosvus Thanks a lot. :) Yep... for the most part I always use Natural and the settings listed above. Note: I only shoot 60fps when I intend to slow the footage down to 23.97. Otherwise it's the 24p 50Mbps IPB setting for shooting anything else. The only thing I'll bring up, or closer, to the "0" setting is saturation. Especially if skin tones are involved. I want to shoot flattest image possible to maintain dynamic range and pixel information. Gives you more control for color correcting and grading in post.

  • tosvustosvus

    @maddog15, fantastic video! :)

    Is that your preferred settings now? I am getting dizzy from all the suggestions in this thread :)

  • maddog15maddog15

    • Using a blue adjustment layer after basic color correction in Premiere Pro CC to achieve a cold, or cool, cinematic feel. • Warp Stabilizer and Varavon Slidecam 900S • Natural -5 -4 -3 -5 • Lens: Lumix 14-142mm f4.0 • 1.2 ND filter • Shot in 60p 50Mbps (59.94fps) then reinterpreted in Premiere Pro to 23.97fps

  • larsaruslarsarus

    The eternity for my camera to drop from the mount on the fence to the rocks below was hell. I doubt my heart did a beat for that duration. Then I remembered that all it took was money and I would be back in business, and I managed to stagger down to inspect the damage. Boy was I surprised...

  • maddog15maddog15

    @larsarus Yep I was lucky. Your scenerio would have caused a change of underwear on my part. (Sorry to the group for posting off topic.)

  • larsaruslarsarus

    @maddog15

    I'd like to ask a favor if any of you have the time. I dropped my GH3 and hoping I didn't cause problems. Camera is fine... only fell a couple of feet. Not dents or scratches BUT....

    I dropped mine 8-10 meters, straight onto rocky ground. It did not turn off, and it worked perfectly afterwards. It did get a few scratches, the manual lens got its UV-filter dented, the eggtimer plastic half was scrathed (it fell because a timelapse eggtimer split in two, and this was probably the most dampening part), and the protection of the internal flash - the part with the "Lumix" text - broke straight off and the flash looked mangled (never tried it before getting the camera repaired). But otherwise it was fine. I took a couple of weeks of photos before repairing it. Obviously the flipscreen was not out and about during this mishap, and I was lucky with how my camera hit the ground, but know that if you aren't really unlucky, a two feet drop is likely to be nothing. Yes, I also lost the EVF mussle, so it was probably also part of the lucky crashdown dampening...

  • maddog15maddog15

    @UEstudios Thank you for taking time to look at it. I now believe it's mainly because of the 30p 72Mpbs All-Intra setting. I usually shoot 50Mpbs IPB which my experience has shown to be much cleaner in regard to noise. All Intra is really not a viable setting until the bit rate gets to 100+. (Check out the GH4 announcements)

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