@shian Ah, see you edited your post for clarity:

• Clearly, you have not worked with this sensor. You won't be pulling as much usable data from the shadows as you might think. [edited cuz kholi pointed out my extreme finality of my declarative statement. For once he has a point, but is still a colossal douche] But you will be able to pull from the highlights. Unless BMD has fixed the way they encode the DNGs, you'll want to meter your DR, make sure you can fit it in your 13 stops, make any adjustments lighting wise to do so, and then expose for your shadows.

There's ample detail in the lower end, down to the last existing stop. It, like most cameras, would require noise reduction to become adequate if one did need that information, but it's there. That was my point.

Edit here: and I didn't see your following post.

There's still a lot of misunderstanding about Blackmagic's approach to linear data, how it pertains to highlights (and the misuse of the term blown out right now), and shadow. But, I guess this probably isn't the thread to dispel things in.

@shian

I thought so. It would be strange for someone to get truly upset over being asked to further elaborate, or to discuss -- in a friendly fashion, a statement delivered as fact.

It's clear that quite a number of people will migrate, or add a camera to their arsenal, personally I don't see anything wrong with cross-checking each other so that everyone benefits from accurate data... or as accurate as it can be on the internet.

Does anybody have any guesses how this thing will shoot indoors without a light kit?

I am planning on using speed-booster, a fast lens and shooting in RAW. I would like to avoid giving my money to cannon for an overpriced 5d3.

Thoughts?

Perfect!

I saw this video on vimeo.

This looks great to my eyes in low light for the type of work that I will be aiming to make.

I have 2 questions with this video.

1) Will the low light be different on the cine from the original BMC shot in 2.5k 2) Will I be able to achieve similar DOF shown in this video on the sensor?

Thanks so much!

Wouldn't the addition of the speed booster to open up your glass even more make it almost impossible to keep focus on anything? If you're shooting everything at 2,1.6 or even .95 would that be insane or does the fact that it's a S16 sensor increase your DOF at those fast Fstops the booster would put you at? Not sure how all that math would work out there, thank you Florida public school system! :)

@eyeiaye if your main goal is low light without adding light to the scene:

malls and restaurants, building windows and streets with post lamps have enough light to shoot with 1600 iso at f1.4 to f2.8, but...

There will be situations in which you will become hungry for 6400 or 12800 iso. So, consider buy this camera and a Nikon D5200 as a B camera because it can deliver good results in high iso after small denoise and it is not so much expensive as 5d3. Also D5200 can use Flaat profiles with 11 fstops DR results, no moire/aliasing and good resolution after small sharpening in post.

Try yourself go shoot with yout actual camera and set it to 1/30, 1.4, 1600 and see what you get in places you want to shoot... if it is enough, BMPC will be enough. Do not forget to try some clandle shoots as I did in the "no light" test with the GH2.

Hey, look: a 16mm film cam that shoots raw for under a grand is a STEAL. I just need to get a 3mm lens for wide shots, and a MOVI rig for the Jello, and I'm set. :)

Speaking of Jello. It's pretty bad on the BMCC and this thing is even smaller, and lighter. [which usually translates into more jitter and vibration as there is less weight to compensate pitch, yaw, roll] so I'm thinking a cage or heavier rig of some type will be essential, so factor that into your costs when picking this thing up, unless you already have all that.

@kholi I wasn't talking about the SLR. I'm well aware about the mounts on lenses. I was simply given random fstop numbers as examples of shallow DOF which I actually try to avoid because I see that crap all day long from everyone with a DSLR.

I'm hoping that someone will make a fast 8mm in m43 or a 12mm FF because if they do, every Pocket Camera owner will want one.

@tinyrobot

The Zeiss Superspeed S16 set that I use has a 5.9/T1.8 and an 8/T1.3 (I think it's a 1.3, might be 1.8)... that's kind of standard so yeah, I agree, but I think the niche is so small that noone's going to want to take on the task of crafting a fast prime that costs nearly as much as a new Voigtlander 25/0.95. =T

I've got some GH2+ETC Super16 glass footage floating around on vimeo, though. ETC on GH2's smaller than what the Pocket cam shoots, maybe that'll give some people an idea on what to expect.

Run-n-gun only with a mini-steadicam. They made something really small for iphones somewhere on kickstarter, can't remember where, so i hope something like it will be made for this cam too, albeit that it's a good few hundred grams heavier, even with a light lens.

FOR ALL

So with a speed booster attached to this cam can I assume the DOF and Low light will be equivalent to my gh2? Will it be better?

I seem to remember one of the BM guys saying OIS would be supported on the active M43 mount, although some of their comments have been contradicted by others, not sure there is a way to be certain..?