Yeah, I've got the Oly too, just very different. They both are valued parts of my arsenal.

@aljimenez As you slide off the aperture ring, be carefull that you get the ball bearing before it rolls away. Also, most of the Rokkors have a spring inside of a hole just under the ball bearing. Make sure you pull that out too. I use a safety pin or straight pen to pull it out. If the spring is left on, it can get caught in the aperture ring an really mess things up. I work on top of a flat baking pan with raised edges in case screws, springs or ball bearings can't get away from me.

There is a problem that comes with declicking the Rokkor lenses. It is difficult to keep them opened to their full aperture without the ball bearing. You will most likely have to use a very stiff grease under the aperture ring to keep the lens fully open.

@fredfred27 you look so professional with your setup! And I see quite a collection of lenses there; very nice. Thanks for your tips... Al

I hope you can post some photos of your opening it, otherwise it may be hard to give you help. It appears that there may be a spring that is not back in its place; it may have flown off? Putting the bearing back in will not solve the problem of opening and closing the aperture blades all the way. So sorry, but you did the 135/2.8 and that might help you. Take a look at the spring in the 135/2.8 for hints on what is wrong... Al

Actually I can open it to f1.4, but it won't hold that open by its own. If I release the aperture ring, it jumps to aprox 2.8 - I've read @fredfred27 words: "It is difficult to keep them opened to their full aperture without the ball bearing" and thought that it may have something to do with it.
I can close it step by step to fully closed, but this fully closed condition does not match f16 on the aperture ring, but f8 aprox.
BTW, I don't recall any spring.
Unfortunately, the aperture mechanisms of the MD 135 2.8 are completely different from MC 50 1.4 as far as I can see. I will try to post some pics tonight. Thanks @aljimenez!

@Flaaandeeers Which 50mm (MC or MD Rokkor or plain MD; f-stop 1.2,1.4,1.7 or 2; 55mm or 49mm filter ring) did you open? I will try to help you work this out.

Thanks. Yes Fred. I had to unscrew that metal piece in order to remove the aperture ring. I screwed it again in the same position, but I might be doing something wrong. This seems to be a very tricky lens. PS: I don't know if Vitaliy thinks that we should follow this via PM. I think that maybe your tips would be helpful for others.

Nice to read you fixed it, yeah! To increase friction add some scotchtape inside the aperture ring and it will stay at 1.4 and 16... Al

Ok. Just my 2 cents here.
I've used my Rokkor set a couple of times so I think I could share my thoughts about them:
- MC W. Rokkor 24mm f2.8 - Small but solid built. Sharp WO. Decent bokeh. Short focus throw. Maybe the best 24mm I've tried.
- MC W. Rokkor HH 35mm f1.8 - Built like a tank. Pretty sharp WO (totally usable). Even sharper when stopped down. Nice bokeh. Very long focus throw. I really like 35mm FOV in my GH2 so this is my best all-rounder.
- MC Rokkor PG 50mm f1.4 - Almost identical to the 24mm build wise. A bit of glow WO, but maybe less than on FD or Ai. Stepping it down a bit (I have it stepless so even around 1.8) it gets really sharp. Bokeh is pretty nice. Long focus throw.
-MC Rokkor PG 58mm f1.2 - Similar built quality than the 35mm, heavy and solid (pure metal and glass). Focus throw is not as long as on the others, but longer than on the 24mm. Not the sharpest guy in town... but, BUT its bokeh is sooo creamy. A real beauty.
-Minolta 85mm f2.8 Varisoft - Solid built but not heavy at all for its size. Not razor sharp WO, but sharp enough and bokeh is beautiful just by closing the varisoft ring even just a bit. Long focus throw. The varisoft feature is a very rare and a nice thing to have.
-Minolta 135mm f2.8 (4/4 version) - Solid but not heavy or too big. It has its own hood. Sharp WO. Pretty nice bokeh. Very long focus throw. VERY cheap.

For wide land I use my Lumix 14mm that has a very similar color to the Rokkors, but I'm planning on getting Noktor 12mm since I really like the feel of manual glass for filmmaking.
Overall color has a nice subtle warm tone and matches very well among all the set. The Tokina 28-70 2.6-2.8 looked bluer than Papa Smurf next to the Rokkors.

@jazzroy: You may need to have the aperture blades cleaned, even if not visible there might be oil on the blades.

Regarding the 85mm lenses: If you are lucky enough to own one of the rare Varisofts, getting the 85mm 1:2 at it's side may be useful. It is not so sought after as the 1.7 version for it's bokeh, but the Varisoft is more flexible in that aspect anyway. The 85 f2 is small, light and tack sharp WO.

some recent boring test sh*t using a Rokkor MD 28mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.7, 135mm f/2.8 and 3 shots with the SLR Magic 12mm, which I'd say blends well with the Minoltas. A few shots have a greenish look because of the Marumi ND filters I used. I'm not sure if the tint is from the filter or the camera (auto) WB. I need to check that. Otherwise no grading, just Cluster Drewnet X v.7 with Standard 0,0,0,0 profile.

I love my Minolta MD 35-70mm f/3.5 Macro. It has nice colors and incredible resolution for his age. I would like to match this lens with other series of the same family (wide-telephoto) having almost the same characteristics of the above lens. Will you recommend those lenses, like: Minolta MD Zoom 50-135mm F3.5 Minolta MD Zoom 24-35mm F3.5 What is your opinion? Do you have any experience on those lenses?

@Flaaandeeers Check your adapter. I improved mine with matte black model airplane paint.

@sakattaq76 I don't know the 50-135mm from own experience. The 24-50 is another very nice lens, but a tad weaker than the exceptional 35-70.