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Official Panasonic GH3 topic, series 3
  • 1137 Replies sorted by
  • Looks like it's the light cycles and your shutter speed.

    In 60hz nations (NTSC) I use 60 or 30 for indoor (30 only for low light low motion stuff where I need the extra light). It has to do with the hz cycle your lights operate at. Sorry I wish I could explain this better. Google can probably help explain it more in depth.

  • @maxr

    Oh, yes, if you need a critical use for say, sports ... sharp detail, high-speed focusing, HIGH ISO, yea, the D3 is gonna blow the GH3 out of the water. Journalist use in fast street-stuff, especially questionable lighting amounts needing high ISO, yea, stick with the D3 ... gonna focus and shoot that better. Ultimate family portrait image, well ... the D3 does really nice, and the D600 with even more rez does really nice.

    For most of my portrait work, folks will not see the difference once I'm through in post. And yea, I know what you mean ... even though for some of that use the GH3 at first feels like a light-weight brick ... some of the features like being able to simply tap the evf for focus area, that sort of thing ... makes going back to the D3 or over to the D600 feel like handling an antiquated tractor. :)

    A VERY ... heavy ... tractor.

    Neil

  • @Flanders The general rule regarding shutter speed with video is that you double the shutter speed via the Frames Per Second (fps). So if you're shooting at 24p (that's 24 frames per second) your shutter speed should be set to 50. 60 fps is a SS of 125. (NOTE: Yes rule can be bent. You can shoot 24fps at a SS of 30. BTW: this trick is how to get rid of that pulsing florescent street light. Similar to the problem you've encountered with florescent lights indoor.) Stay away from letting the camera choose the SS in auto mode. Eg: on a bright sunny day the auto SS mode may jack your shutter speed up to like 400 or more to compensate for all that bright light. Your video will have a kind of jerky studdering to the movements instead of natural motion blur that'll appear more "normal" looking to the viewer. I think (as most of us have learned) you'll find the best and really the only way to shoot proper video is in all manual mode. There are always exceptions though.

  • @RatLabProductions

    @maddog15

    THANKS, THANKS, THANKS and THANKS! Indeed the problem was the shutterspeed. I had no idea of what I was doing. Now I've set it right (24p=50shutter) and I can see no "flashing" at all.

    And thanks for the trick, I'll remind that:

    When shooting "lights" outside in the dark. Even if it's 24p, go down from 50 to 30.

    thanks again, I'm going happy to sleep :)

    (Now let's just dream about a GH3 hack!)

  • And when you're wondering how in the Hades you get a decent exposure outdoors in sun shooting at say 1/60th second without having to be out darn near f64, well ... neutral density filters are your answer. Past a camera, a couple lenses, and a GOOD cine tripod, this is the next major expense ... they are dark pieces of very high quality glass (you hope!) to cut down light coming into the lens.

    You will need several strengths, and it just makes more sense to buy large-diameter ones and get step-up rings for each lens filter size you need so you only get one of a strength and can use it on any lens you've got. Some people use and like variable-density ND filters, others think they're the plague. Decent ND filters are spendy. GOOD ND filters are ... spendier. Cheap ones ... well, why did you spend so dang much money on a good camera and good lenses just to knock the crap out of your footage with the dang ND filter? :)

    If, of course, you've stepped up your game and use a rails-system to mount camera, EVF, sound gear, matte-box and all, of course ... then you can get the large square ND filters that fit into the matte box filter-holder. By the time you've got that, you probably won't be spending too much time around here ... ha.

    Neil

  • @Flanders while you are getting your head around the subtleties of shooting manual if you just need to get the shot indoors I'd be really tempted just for this time create a custom setting put it in P, go to the motion picture menu and scroll to page 3 and select flicker reduce 1/50, set the ISO to I ISO and let the camera use that to manage the exposure most likely the aperture will stay wide open indoors assuming you have the kit lens. Then use the little red button to record rather than the shutter button like you would in manual. I'd take the time to white balance it manually indoors that's not that hard and will give a better result just find something neutral to set it on or your hand etc. until you have a grey card. Also use the AF/AE lock button to set the focus and exposure before hitting record that will stop it hunting and that exposure change you had in your video around assuming your doing fairly static shots.

    Going forward manual is the way to do for consistent results, but I have the above set up for a quick just get the dam shot option and it works well indoors. Outdoors as others you'll need nd filters etc. to keep the shutter speed in range and get exposure. Have fun! (btw the internal mic is not good if you are thinking about recording music keep close eye on levels and get some test runs first if you are relying on that as you had an instrument in your picture!)

  • If you have a chance to go to the location and do some test shots that could really help to make sure you're ready.

  • When taking photos with GH3 one must stay below iso400 or iso320 if one wants to get good photos. With GH2 limit is iso200. Otherwise it is a struggle with noise.

  • @Vesku That is just plain wrong! Do you even use this camera? ISO performance is very good up to 1600 with a little bit of noise reduction in Lightroom or Imaginomics or whatever software you prefer. Spreading this kind of disinformation is not helpful.

  • I agree with @Conundrum. I have even had good results with ISO 3200 for photos.

  • I agree with @Conundrum. @Vesku saying "good photos" is very subjective. Just like some people say purple vs violet vs lavender. They're all "purple".... or are they? No. As far as photos on the GH3, you can shoot a myriad of ISO speeds before noise becomes a "problem." Plus, what if I'm going for a grainy distressed look that can't be achieved by just adding noise in PhotoShop? A photo shot at 6400 might me just perfect in achieving a "good photo". This of course is all in my humble opinion.

  • @Conundrum, @aljimenez, @maddog15

    Okay I ment exellent photos with no noise and good added sharpness and pure colors. I have been taken about 40 000 photos over a year with GH3 and about 100 000 with GH2. If I shoot RAW photos (GH2 over 200iso, GH3 over 400iso) I must make a compromise between clarity and detail vs noise. With GH3 even 125iso is much cleaner than 200iso. But that is relative. I talk about absolute quality like compared to 5d3 or Sony A7.

    In generally one can say that GH3 800 or even 1600iso photos are good or acceptable. When you look photos with 50inch screen at 100% you start to see differences. For example GH3 is so much better than GH2 with same 100-300mm lens that I could think it is hole different lens. Much better contrast and sharpness.

    By the way when I shoot GH3 video in bright sunny day I can see difference in noise between 200iso and 400iso.

  • @Vesku

    Amazing number of photos, as a portrait pro even when we had out biggest clientele I never approached 40k images a year ... wow! :)

    Neil

  • some nice GH3 footage shot recently

  • Remember that we have running PV video contest at http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/9159/personal-view-video-contest

    With Varavon 1m SlideCam V medium slider as main prize for Panasonic cameras owners.

  • Merry Christmas to All!

    Shot with GH3 + PLeica 25mm f/1.4 + Oly 45mm f/1.8 + tripod during yesterday. No additional lightning.

  • Some extreme low light shots here, for those who are interested. Music video shot with GH3, Natural -5 -3 -4 -5

  • @greyapple, really loved that video. Great look and feel. Some of those shots were really cinematic and emotional. What lenses were used?

  • @Aria thanks! i used 9-18 olympus, 25mm 1,4 lumix and 45-150 lumix

  • Panasonic GH3, Samyang Cine Primes, Glidecam HD-2000, Sachtler Ace-L Tripod.

  • @fancydancer

    That's overall quite an enjoyable bit of vid. Would certainly love to have been there just to play with their "toys" and watch them fly. One thing I wonder about ... I do love some bits where the camera moves, but early on, the camera movement is so constant and changing it almost seems more the "subject" of the footage than the image itself.

    Or am I just ... well, unique in viewpoint? ;)

    Neil

  • @fancydancer

    Very nice CC!

  • @fancydancer ...

    I didn't presume it was your video. My comments were therefore simply in general about it ...

    Neil