Chain link to stop it rotating in the wind shows good design. Very tempted to give this a try.

China are getting better and better at concepts and design (even though they probably still copy a lot!!). Next Japan? I think so... They are becoming sophisticated yet cost effective.

Oh camcorder fist style kung-fu

Thanks for all the information. I have to buy a stabilizer asap. CoolCD seems to be a good option. The other option is WONDLAN Ares.
I guess the difference in price comes to 50$. Wondlan looks more solid and easy to balance and carry more weight may be. Will CoolCD be easy to balance too?
Theres another interesting stabilizer:-
http://www.youtube.com/user/nakulembracevideo#p/u/9/at_CWdpNMns
This one has solid platform and I am told by the manufacturer easy to balance. But it seems little heavy. It costs little more than 300$.
http://www.embracevideo.com/purchasecasper.html

Most of the videos online are of the footage taken from the balanced systems. While the main concern is how easy it is to balance the rig.

Still confused, which one to choose from these three.

Don't know any of the above stabilizers, but from my experience here's my 0.02 euro about choosing one:

1) Choose the lightest one if there's a clear choice. It's hard work operating any stabilizer for any length of time and heavy weight makes it difficult to keep it steady as you're holding it away from your body and that's difficult to do well for long. You also need ideally some sort of stand to hold it while you unmount the camera (for regular shots).

2) A stabilizer is like a musical instrument - it won't guarantee fantastic results from the get-go. You have to put in the hours. The best designs will put fewer limitations on your skill as you get better at operating it, but when you say you have to buy a stabilizer ASAP, I hope that's to allow for the practice time!

3) In my experience, the most difficult and revealing bit about stabilizers is when you change direction. So have a really careful look at any promotional videos to see what happens when you change direction - does the thing start to swing or wobble? Look particularly at footage where there are lots of horizontal and vertical lines (such as buildings and roads) and using these as reference points, pay close attention to what's happening at all four edges of the frame, as that reveals any problems with jerky panning movements or pendulum motion when changing direction.

I use my monopod as a stabilizer

Just received the ASX-MOV ST-10 from CoolLCD (£160), took four days from China to UK via DHL with standard £35 shipping (quick!); packaged as a gift saving me some dosh ;-) (only £8 VAT!); Opening the box you find yourself with a fake Sony Vaio-badged laptop bag (pleasant surprise!); open the bag and all the bits in the picture are there to be found and assembled (looks fairly robust metal castings); the CD jpg'd manual is in chinese and is sooo small its unusable and is not that adequate (it doesnt take much skill to put it together :-) ); the accompanying 'how to' video (again in chinese) is for the larger video camera model setup and not for this, the 7D/HDSLR version (so I'm going to make my own for us GH2 users!); 1/ find the balance of your camera(+chosen connected lens) and find the mid weight point - mark mid-point with tape, mount quick release plate onto GH2 underside and slide into the top mount (flimsy quick release button but adequate), use the brass coloured X/Y screwable adjusters to set camera centre of mount (repeat this later to finalise camera to weight balance position), 2/ lock into place the head extender and mount it onto the top of half-hoop, mount the T weight (which has a spirit level set into its head) to the bottom of the half-hoop and tighten, 3/ begin to place weights onto the T base to counterbalance camera until you have the spirit level dead centre (of course the T bracket can be adjusted in height to further aid stability), the weights have three areas each side to attach weights to aid balance to to the camera - especially as HDSLs such as the GH2 are heavier on the battery side (so add the weights to the left and and back for the GH2!). And thats it. Two things annoy me - the two half hoop screw fixers (to the camera mount and the T base provide inadequate tightening (they supply three extra screw fixers) as they are easy to come loose sending the camera/or weights off balance; but Ill tighten up (may have to gaffer it down...) and get on with using it, Yep, the car style shock absorber system from the handle to the half-hoop seem to react well with any movement...

Well I'm nearly set.... more thoughts soon as I will be trying it out today...

@driftwood Thanks for the inputs!
Hope the system is not a burden on hands and sets up quickly with good balance.

Dreadful. The pivot is way too far below the camera platform. This means that the counterweight has to be that much further away and/or massive than it would have to be, and so the entire unit is then larger and/or heavier than it has to be. Really basic physics, people!

And what's with the bike chain? If you want the pan axis to be locked to the grip instead of being free to turn, just use a universal joint for the main pivot, not a ball-joint. Ball joints have way too much friction anyway.

I see the the auction listing addresses the crucial question of its operation on stairs. Very important, since we all know that stabilizers must be tested on stairs. No mention of how it performs in front of a mirror, however. :)

VK,
Agreed that is why with smaller/lighter camera many have to add weight or move them up away from the platform to get stability.

Never seen a tightrope walker with a three foot long pole. Usually around twenty feet, same principle, more stability. Same physics!

@driftwood Thanks for saving me from the headache. Again I am stuck with what to buy question:(