theres the link to the video i really just want technical advise , i know i need stabilisation stuff, and threes an issue with ghosting on the lens,i have a uv filter on the nikkor 50mm 1.8 is this it? why? what else?
ta
complete noob sorry :S
heres a version that plays better (fits 1080p screen) but has a lower bit rating...just under 4MBps
When you say Ghosting I guess you mean lens flare to reduce it you will need a lens hood or Matte Box Also when you say stabilisation stuff just use a tripod or monopod or keep a wide angle lens on the GH2 as your 50mm is really 100mm with the x2 factor. A 28mm or 35mm would be good. Do you have a OIS panasonic lens as this helps loads but most of the stock lenes are to slow for night shoots
i have a 28mm 2.8 i just didn't think it fast enough for such low light stuff..... i have a photography tripod... i just don't think it will do for film through... i will get one for film soon. by ghosting i meant the blue reflections of lights yeah , just the really prominent blue ones .. sometimes they can be distracting.... i think its worse with the uv filter on....
a canon 50mm 1.4 fd is on my list of lenses to acquire soon, along with an fd 35 mm f2 i think, and also a cowboy shoulder strap and a new tripod (i would have used a tripod but mine was in my studio ... don't worry im not saying im a pro my ART studio ) yes uv filter off and a lens hood then, and tripod next time. and mix in some 35 mm shots to give variation.... anything else? like editing? i did minimal editing tbh but was that ok? i just want to know how u guys get your films looking so good !!!!!
I think a bit of slow-motion would look nice with stuff like this. Also I love the round blurred lights (for example at 0:53). When it focusses on things I'm then disturbed by the lack of very accurate focus. But for example, a foreground object like a railing, or some steam from a drain, perfectly in focus, with blurred lights moving in the distance behind it, is a lovely subject. I'd say yes to the tripod rather than a stabilizer, because otherwise you have moving subjects (the lights) and a moving camera. A stabilizer with a moving subject will still have essentially two moving elements to it, whereas the tripod will give a sense of solidity and "class" to the whole thing. Especially with a bit of slo-mo. And if you throw in a bit of grading with different curves to each of the RGB colours, you might end up with interesting false colours in the lights, which could be a good look to experiment with if you are aiming for something abstract. Have a search for grading on this forum to see what's possible. Also could you refine it to a particular theme to give it slightly more coherence? Perhaps choose a word or two that you want to illustrate in pictures, then go out and shoot with that in mind?
cheers mark :) focus im still getting used to i will practice, (im used to autofocus doing my photos like here -http://jakepowellart.com/index.php?/ex-nihilo/ex-nihilo/ ...) tripod for shots , im going to get into the world of twixtor also :) so slo mo soon :) and grading is so far over my head but i will research asap ... thanks a lot more to follow to see if i can improve :)
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