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Cheap 27" 2560x1440 monitors based on S-IPS panels
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  • @Vitaliy_Kiselev Just curious, is there a particular forum thread you recommend?

    Greensum just sent me a generic response that really didn't address the issue I contacted him/her about.... I'm thinking about sending another email, but I guess I want to try to fix this first myself.

    @DrDave... you didn't have this problem I take it? @jpbturbo how would black electric tape work in this situation?

  • @qwerty123 It would depend on the monitor construction.

    Basically you want to seal off the edges of the display.

    Here is a link: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/dell2005_backlight_fix.htm

    Something like that maybe.

    It all depends on how your monitor is constructed inside as to whether or not you can actually block the light at all.

  • @jpbturbo

    This is very specific case, as monitor is small and does not use screws to mount panel.

  • Finally got one. Minor light leak in bottom right corner. If I look plain white screen there's blueis/greenish cast on the left side on the panel, on right looks normal. Hard to notice in normal use. Paid extra for pixel perfect so no dead pixels.

    I was hoping that refresh rate would overclock atleast to 85hz (that's why I bought "catleap" model because them used to overclock), but this seems to be locked to 60hz.

    But still I'm pretty satisfied.

  • My Catleap 27" monitor has no backlight bleed, even less than my high end Dell, but I did not order the Shimian for a number of reasons. I suspect it may have more to do with the batches than the brands, but I only have the one monitor. A lot of people order the Shimian, so there is a presumably a reason to do so, I had heard reports about buzzing so I went with the Catleap.

  • Yep, this one does not make any extra noises.

  • Update: I followed the guide I linked to before, and I actually physically bent the part of the monitor that was warped and I added the screws mentioned in that guide... now... virtually no backlight bleed at all!!! :-)

  • Considering the alternatives, which are DOA, making it worse and dead pixels, I would say you did great!!!

  • Btw, check http://science.su/Korean_Monitors/FAQ.html , it is big FAQ about this monitors (use Google to translate).

  • Purchased 3 of the Crossover LED-P. This is the basic Crossover monitor, in that it has just a DVI input, but it has swivel, portrait mode, a good stand. Crossovers are supposed to have the best stand as compared to Achieva and Catleap. I didn't go for the scaler version with more inputs as it has a lower response time and I VERY occasionally game on this machine.

    Have to say these monitors are unbelievable, so well worth taking the risk (so far no trouble). I was sweating a bit with fingers crossed when setting them up to check the pixels. However, there are no dead or stuck pixels, none at all. Checked them thoroughly and used a 50% grey background. Lots of things that looked like dodgy pixels were actually dust, most blew off but some needed a little screen wipe. Dust settles very quickly on these things.

    I'm running these on 2x ATI 4770s just now, so no crossfire possible, but that's not an issue to me. If I had bought these for gaming eyefinity or surround I'd have more money than sense. Next upgrade will be to an Nvidia but waiting on the Nvidia 700 series coming in March/April hopefully.

    The seller I bought from was AccessoriesWhole on ebay. He has the best rep as far as I can see. If the monitor has more than 3 dead or stuck pixels total they will pay for return shipping. Can't say fairer than that. The other highly recommended seller is BigClothCraft (who thinks up these names :-)

    I did not pay the premium for "pixel perfect" monitors as it doesn't seem to make much difference according to those on overclock.net, so could have easily had dead/stuck pixels (up to 3). Great service as well. They checked that the PCB was the latest green one and also got the monitor to me in 4 days (to the UK).

    The panel is not super reflective as I was expecting. It does have a reflection but nowhere near as bad as a mirror like reflection.

    A lot of people need to understand that Apple and Dell come with stuck and dead pixels too and have quality control issues similar to these Korean monitors. I went round and saw a Dell 2412 a few days ago and it had awful backlight bleed, plus a shitty anti glare coating that I really could never stand, unless you like looking at everything with a film grain effect.

    If you are on the fence about these monitors definitely consider picking one or two or three up. This is near enough an Apple 27inch IPS for £260. They are so good I almost cried. I was watching the 2560x1440 Timescapes film: http://timescapes.org/ and was just amazed.

  • It looks like there are 30" versions available. I am also thinking it may be worth paying slightly more on Amazon because of easier return policies. Any opinions on this one? http://www.amazon.com/Crossover-30Q5-Pro-Black-Resolution/dp/B00ARB6CYK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1358529663&sr=1-6&keywords=Crossover+Monitor

    Thanks

  • Guys, is anyone here using Dell 27" UltraSharp U2713HM IPS monitor?

    I saw one in the local PC store, the picture looks just amazing. Anybody has some experience with it?

  • I'm very close to purchasing one of these. Any updates on how these displays are working for you all? thanks a lot.

  • @cls105 No change to my last update, works fine.

  • @tetakpatak I’m using the pretty similar Dell U2711 and sadly it’s pretty rubbish. Its surface has some anti-reflective coating that both hurts the eyes and changes the color of individual pixels, the inner bezel reflects the screen enough to distract sometimes, the background lighting is inconsistent and has some light leaks, 4 pixels already died and power consumption as well and heat emission aren’t good either.

    Of course I can’t tell which of these factors also apply to the U2713HM and I’m aware that some of my issues are related to just having received a faulty unit.

  • Still very happy with my Yamakasi Catleap. Zero dead pixels (I lucked out). The only minor weirdness is when I first power it up, a couple minutes later, sometimes the display brightness with flicker for a few seconds before settling, and then it remains solid until I power off the monitor again.

  • Does anyone have a problem with CC and grading on these monitors with glass screens? It seems to me that all of my CC and grading looks different on 90% of what everyone else will be looking at the finished product through. I have a couple monitors at my house I'm trying and while one of these type of monitors looks great, it's so far off the others in terms of sharpness and color. Am I over thinking this here? And yes, all monitors have been calibrated with the Spyder 4 Pro and all at 100% sRGB.

  • @vlcharris I don't own these monitors but I'm interested in them. What do you mean by "terms of sharpness and color"? Are these monitors oversharp? Oversaturated? At least I have noticed that glass screen Apple Cinema display looks more sharp and saturated than, for example, my HP LP3065. I'm pretty sure that it's all about anti glare surface which tames down the sharpness and saturation a bit. Which doesn't apply with glass screens.

  • @Pavezer Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Maybe it's just the way things are heading but when I grade something on this 27"IPS monitor, then go look at it on a MBP or my girlfriends 23" Matte IPS monitor, it looks very different. I understand it's going to be impossible to grade for every screen and computer but since, I'm guessing, most people will not be viewing on these monitors, is this not the best route. It almost reminds me of the new tv look that drives me crazy. All the HD stuff on those glass screen TV's with the 120hz refresh rate. Drives me crazy to watch anything on there. Of course these don't have that refresh rate but it is leaning that way.

  • @vicharris

    First thing to check is lighting you have behind monitors and overall lighting. Monitor calibration alone is not enough.

    If you don't have stuff that reflects on such monitors they are better suited compared to matte ones.

  • @Vitaliy_Kiselev Yes, I've checked lighting. I've tested during daylight hours, during night. Also the Spyder 4 Pro does account for ambient light in your workspace and adjusts your monitors saturation and brightness to that. I guess I'm just thinking into it too much. I'll get a hold of a few post houses here in LA and see what they think.

  • @vlcharris Well, I do know what you mean. I'm mainly working with HP LP3065 and i feel more comfortable working with it than glass displays. It tends to be in a way that if it looks good with antiglare, then there's generally nothing to worry about, they will look good on glass displays. I also have seen some good looking clips done with glass displays and they look good on glass one, but when they are displayed on antiglare display, they are not working that well.

    If these cheap korean displays are tending to have this manner, I might aswell skip them. Anyway, I'd like to hear more comments from these display owners about this issue, so please step in. :)

    Are these korean monitors clear glass displays? In another words: they don't have any kind of antiglaring?