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Driftwood VY Canis Majoris: This thread will now be integrated into 'Driftwood Series 6 Settings'
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  • redbaronredbaron

    Canis Majoris Night used indoors in gallery. Graded very smoothly. Smooth -2 -2 -1 -2 Rokinon 35mm 1.4, Rokinon 85mm 1.4

  • gokuan003gokuan003

    @ 5thwall has noted, we are not alone, I'm almost over, all the GH2 have the same problem, if you can called it a problem ... I noticed that, after setting my recess and Canis Night curiosity, a face image quality in the dark, I could see it ... then certe I do not think I'll shoot in conditions above the iso 1250 but it has something to ask :/

    I would love to have an opinion also Vitaliy_Kiselev @, @ driftwood :/ and I do not think that by buying me a GH2 made ​​in japan, it will change :/

    thank you

  • bheathbheath

    If you don't underexpose your shots. The shitty line will go away. And all the other shitty everythings too. :( = :)

  • gokuan003gokuan003

    Haha! thank you, we do not look stupid: D anyway thank you for your answer, it is clear now I lowered the exposure to 30 or even self, to see that the problem no longer have :). gonna reassured the rest of the gang: D

  • peaceonearthpeaceonearth

    did anyone test HBR mode? I need the GH2 as B cam sycnhronized to the main camera in 25fps. Thanks for sharing your experience.

  • TifoseTifose

    @redbaron what Software did you use to grade ? Great skin tone

  • EYESOULEYESOUL

    @redbaron the footage looks great!good example of what the settings are capable of..what was the iso range used?

  • BonzaiBonzai

    @5thwall ~ As gokuan003 has discovered, if you keep the shutter speed (SS) below 30 you shouldn't have a problem with the dark horizontal line when shooting at higher ISO settings. I occasionally forget to lower my SS when shooting high ISO and see the dark line around 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the frame. Lowering to SS 30 for HBR30P or 25 for Cinema 24P eliminates the issue. BTW: the same issue is evident wit the stock Panasonic firmware (1.0 and 1.1).

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    Last night, while shooting wide timelapse footage of the "super moon" with a Canon 50D, I shot some Canis Majoris Night (and later a couple other settings) EX24H footage on the GH2 at 400mm with the Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L at f/5.6.

    You can see a bit-accurate frame grab at http://perlichtman.com/pasdenapulse/wordpress/2012/05/06/super-moon-2012/

  • redbaronredbaron

    @Tifose I Used Premiere Pro to cut and After Effects to grade. I used curves to match all exposures and technical grade and @Shian ColorGhear for a creative grade.

    @EYESOUL The Rokinons at 1.4 allowed me to shoot at 640 - 1250 iso. It was pretty dark indoors! ;-)

  • MikhailKMikhailK

    @Bonzai, @5thwall, @gokuan003,

    "if you keep the shutter speed (SS) below 30 you shouldn't have a problem with the dark horizontal line..."

    I disagree with the approach of keeping the shutter below 50 (or even 30)!

    Please keep in mind that when you shoot using 24 frames/second and you wanna achieve the correct "CINEMA SHUTTER SPEED RULE", you MUST use the shutter speedof 48 (frame speed is multiplied by 2). I.e. - 30 frames/second will have the shutter speed of 60. In our case GH2 doesn't provide 48 and the closest shutter speed that simulates the rule of 24p is 50. If you wanna have the same motion that feature movies have then you must use 50 on GH2.

    If you go over 50 then in some ISOs (especially while shooting in a room with an artificial light):

    1) You may have a blinking effect; 2) You may get some sort of a stop motion effect (the beginning of Saving Private Ryan has this effect during the initial battle). Motion doesn't look natural there because Spielberg did this on purpose. The only good thing while going over 50 is that almost all objects in a frame (especially on the shutter of 100 and over) will have no blur during the motion.

    If you go below 50 then:

    1) You'll have an extra F stop (or F stops)..., but then why don't we say - why do we care about some fast aperture lenses? Let's buy some slow ones and push down the shutter speed for our movies and save some money!? :-) 2) You'll get rid of this "LINE" bug, but you'll get the same problem with the motion naturality and almost all objects during some small motion will have a blur.

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    If you really want to use lower shutter speeds, you can use VMM to compensate. If I use a 1/15 shutter, I use VMM 300% to maintain 180 degree rule.

  • vittowarvittowar

    Hi, let me show you some footage with CM Day Pm, in my opinion is the best patch I have tested, incredible, now is time to donate.

  • HillTop1HillTop1

    @driftwood, I am doing some fast moving sports shoot and will be using 720p ( I will be doing some fast pans). CM Day has some rolling shutter at 720p. I was wondering can I turn up the GOP for 720p and it reduces it or possible eliminate it? Or can you suggest a possible solution? I know most of your quantum hacks didn't have rolling shutter on 720p.

  • driftwooddriftwood

    You can get away with GOP1 on 720p50 with a lower frame limit and FBuffers. Check earlier Quantum settings and copy them in.

  • driftwooddriftwood

    @vittowar You are absolutely correct. Day PM is very good in my own filming. I spent over two weeks refining this setting. Day AM will be released as soon as I feel fit.

  • shianshian

    I can't wait till I have time to test CM. The Day PM stuff reminds me of the results I used to get shooting Fuji Velvia.

  • driftwooddriftwood

    @MikhailK I prefer by the rules too, 24/50 PAL/30fps/60NTSC. And I often use 100 shutter in PAL land.

  • 5thwall5thwall

    @driftwood any recommendations for which setting I should use for shooting in a conference room that we will be lighting. Not sure yet what our lighting scheme or overall look will be. Lights will most likely be kinoflo.

  • driftwooddriftwood

    The correct shutters mentioned above should be suffice. But check with all lighting in the room and do test record/playback recordings before the event happens.

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    @Driftwood @5thwall Yes, flicker can be maddening if your shutter angle is out of sync with lights refresh rate. But the effect gets worse the narrower your angle, so I would stick to checking 1/50 and 1/60 if you are shooting anything other than SH mode footage.

  • 5thwall5thwall

    @Driftwood et al... sorry, I meant which VY CM settings patch would you recommend based on interior lighting scenarios?

  • meemee

    I recently discovered a sweet spot for flicker at 1/100 here in Tokyo. Before I was using 1/50 and lower. With current shutter speed options it's pretty much impossible to avoid all flicker here simply because of the sheer number of lights, a few are usually dying and flickering in big shots.

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    @5thwall If you are at all worried about under-exposure, VY CM Night. If you are more concerned about skin tones and have enough light, VY CM SkinTone Soft . At least that is what my testing is suggesting at the moment.

    @mee I find that some gyms are really "flicker-flourescent-city", even harder than shooting some of the streetlights around here. But you must have an even harder time if there are that many lights. Good find. :)

  • BonzaiBonzai

    @MikhailK ~ You are entitled to disagree however my experience has been if I shoot high ISO - say 2500 and above - I need to drop the SS to 'native' (30 for HBR30p and 25 for Cinema 24P) to avoid the dark horizontal line (changing SS upward will raise it up the frame). I'm no disputing that multiples of 30 or 24 is not the correct SS settings, only that the GH2 will yield the dreaded dark horizontal line when shooting above native SS (the same as the base configuration) when shooting high ISO video. It also depends on the 'grain' of the subject as to how visible it is but if it becomes an issue drop your SS to native (at least for 30P and 24P).

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