how is the APSC mode? any reduction in quality or other strangeness?

@animanus I haven't had a look at APSC yet (no glass!)- but you can put it in APSC mode ?? Kind of pointless - can just crop after...

@swester Filming power lines is not my idea of fun... however this is the worst... it does have issues, but not as bad as you have shown... This 'may' fix up with a HDMI tap?? (I totally understand that these are sensor issues- however the severity seams to come and go on a per frame basis - so possibly i-frame codec could at lease make it something I could live with) Anyway- this was shot into the sun.. so I am happy with the DR range! :-D (And yes that is dust on the f#king sensor... :( I have to already clean the sensor... :#

Image shot at F 22 Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 shutter 50 (iso I forget- something like 500-1000?)

Oh.. sure sorry @VK and @animanus... My head has been in photo mode for a few days now... (camera is 90% for photos). love the GH2 too much to ever ditch it! :-D

For images obviously just crop... video no crop for sure.

The clip is from from Jacob Fenn, (DSLR News Shooter covered this in the D800 posting) Ill ask DSLR Shooter if he can pop in his prototype Mosaic engineering OLP Filter for the D800 (same hole size?) don't know...

Cheers, Al

@alcomposer Thanks for testing. I was wondering: Any idea what's the best method for giving Nikon feedback about this black border, and no-aperture-change while in live view? I always fear that Nikon is not getting the message, so at least we should provide feedback as best as we can..

@evero & @LPowell

Personally I have fixed the aperture issue. (My fix) Is to only use manual aperture lenses. As we all know this really is the only way to pull aperture if needed in shot (exposure control). Otherwise you will get a lovely stepping effect.

The issue that I have found is that some of my lenses don't like being in manual aperture control (EE is displayed on D600). My primes are fine - but Tokina zooms (don't laugh- at f4 they are razor sharp!) don't play ball.

To get around this I set the lens to camera control (largest f number lock) then also set the camera to the largest f number- and the correct shutter speed. Then when I enter Movie LV I simply unlock the aperture ring on the lens and BOOM! Smooth aperture control.

So currently I don't have issues with aperture at all. Unfortunately Moire is horrid (aliasing is not that big a deal compared to patterns for me)- and HDMI is playing 'who framed Roger Rabbit'.

Fortunately I purchased this for event photography- studio - etc... so I am not reaching for the invoice quite yet.

YMMV

@evero I have already sent off a service query- as far as I am concerned the black border is NOT uncompressed HDMI. They also should get a reality check with Moire which is a real game stopper, however I understand the technical issues in trying to please every camp.

I have some very large Greenscreen shoots coming up next year, and if nothing changes till December will most probably be investing in a BMDC MFT. Once again I'm not selling my GH2 yet- but greenscreen is a RAW affair, and it will cost basically the same for an external recorder for the D600 as the whole darn BMDC!

@LPowell you have D600? As for glass, latest lenses tend to be more expensive- so at least there is a clear price advantage!

I am shuddering to think about getting the new Moire filter only to kill parfocal lenses! :-(

@alcomposer No, I considered the D600, but since I don't need full frame, it's not a useful upgrade from the D5100 for me. While the D600 has measurably better sensor specs, it lacks the D5100's swivel LCD and its video functionality isn't significantly better. I use the D5100 for still photography and low-light, high-ISO video, where it fills in the GH2's gaps very well. Since the Nikon lacks a Live View histogram, I never use it in manual mode, and its auto-ISO Aperture Priority operation makes it very easy to shoot with.

I'll probably get a D600 in the near future. If so, I can test the HDMI with black magic and sound devices pix 240 recorder. We should make a list with compatible and non compatible devices.

@alcomposer As I understand, the D800 is able to output 720p via HDMI. Do you know if this is possible with the D600? (I know that this mode is worse image quality wise, but still it's needed).

@alcomposer thanks for reporting.

I now have a D600 here. Some nice things and bad things:

• On D600 it's possible to adjust ISO and WB while recording (not possible on GH2 - but contrary on shutter and aperture, so..).
• For run and gun I also like the Shutter priority mode, with auto ISO, and I can force hold exposure with the lock exposure button in situations where needed (BUT I haven't succeded configuring the "AE-hold lock" function to work in movie mode. I want to "activate"/"deactivate" manual exposure by pressing the button, not hold-press to keep the exposure locked)

Other things I haven't figured out:

• How can I adjust shutter speed in live video mode? It seemes to be locked to 25 when I use 1080p25, and 50 when set to 720p50 ? Or am I getting something wrong? This is either respecting the 180 rule, or enabling me to use faster shutter when forced to in run and gun outdoor shootings without ND (not ideal, I know, but happens), and also when you want to use fast shutter speeds for slow mo recordings etc.

Would be great to hear comments on this!

@evero If the D600 works like the D7000 it's based on, you should be able to set your preferred shutter speed and use the AE-lock button to lock exposure before shooting each video. Here's how it works:

• In the Custom Settings Menu, set Assign AE-L/AF-L button to "AE lock (Hold)".
• In the Shooting Menu ISO sensitivity settings are several important presets:
• Set ISO sensitivity to the lowest desired ISO (usually 100).
• Set Auto ISO sensitivity control to ON to enable Auto-ISO.
• Set Maximum sensitivity to the highest ISO you want the camera to use.
• Set Minimum shutter speed to your preferred shutter speed (e.g. 1/60).
• Set the mode dial to A to select Aperture Priority mode.

To prepare for shooting video, you must preset your desired aperture before entering Live View mode. The camera will then use that aperture with your preferred shutter speed and adjust the ISO according to the current Exposure Compensation setting, which you can freely adjust. Once you have the exposure you want, press the AE-lock button, and the settings will remain constant while you shoot your video clip.

What is a little tricky is how Nikon cameras manage exposure settings when the required ISO ranges above or below the min/max settings you preset in the ISO sensitivity settings menu. In those cases, the camera will pin the ISO to your min or max setting, and start adjusting the shutter speed to obtain the proper exposure. However, you can use the Exposure Compensation button to push the shutter speed back to your preferred setting, and then use the AE-lock button to hold it there.

Once you get used to Nikon's semi-manual exposure controls, it's just as quick to use Exposure Compensation and AE-lock buttons to set your exposure as it is to set up manual exposure controls. Since the D600 lacks a Live View histogram, there's no way to manually gauge your exposure anyway, and I've found it best to simply rely on Nikon's excellent light metering system to adjust the ISO for you.

Interesting thing is that accorsing to ifixit report Nikon still use old approach with Toshiba separate controller, and even SD separate controller.

@LPowell very useful, thanks for helping out. @sohus if correct, thats very good news. the d600 is turning out to be a very capable full frame cam for me.

It would be totally awesome if a hack would remove the record time limit, that's probably my last grip.

I guess focus peaking and exposure aid is something I will get in a EVF. Hoping maybe a cheaper EVF would come to market after a while :)