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Affordable and Effective Light Meter
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  • Thanks shian.

  • This has already been mentioned, but it looks like the Kickstarter is well-funded, and there are a few days left to join if you want to get in early.

    It's a light meter for a smart phone.

  • @shian or anyone... I want to buy one of these to improve my footage. I shoot with a BMPCC which only has crude zebras. No scopes, meters or anything. How would one calibrate? Is it possible? You said earlier that light meters must be calibrated to the camera via grey card, scope and internal metering. Thoughts?

  • yes, it's possible but probably not that necessary. I used mine on a shoot with the BMPCC and it was fine. No calibration needed.

  • Like Shian said, it's fine with BMCC cameras. I've been using that cheap meter he suggested a year ago and it's been just fine. Same damn battery I might add.

  • So just to make sure: calibration is not necessary when using the BMCC camera's (supposing we use RAW recording), but you can effectively use the light meter to create contrast ratio's, making sure it fits the DR etc?

  • duh. :)

  • @shian I'm a little embarrassed to ask this, but if I'm using a 1 stop Speedbooster do I offset that on the meter? I'm leaning towards yes as the light hitting the sensor is being condensed.

  • If I recall correctly the speedbooster has it's own exposure ring and that's where the exposure is controlled? And It's not marked in f-stops, correct? If so, you'll just have to count clicks. And compensate by 1 stop. So if your lens is a f2 the booster makes it a f1.4, so then I guess you just count backwards. Meaning, if the meter says f2 then set the booster to 2. If the reading is 2.8, set it to 3, and so on...but I don't have a speed booster, so @vicharris would be the one to ask.

  • Hey @shian cheers for responding, I know you're busy mate. I'm using the FD version, so aperture control is on the FD lens iris. What you're saying applies though, and is in line with my thinking. Essentially, meter and knock it down a stop.

    I do have the Nikon version too, but it's the early one which is hit and miss on each click. Allegedly the new version (not advertised as new by the way) has more accurate gearing in that each click is a stop. I've not used my Nikon mount on set yet as I don't trust it until I get a monitor with false colour or waveform.

  • @shian Was wondering if shooting RAW on BM(P)CC changes the way you light, as ETTR appears to be the way to go?

  • no. it just gives me a little more flexibility with the exposure and the highlights. I don't have to be so paranoid about losing highlight detail.