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GH4 - Best Video Settings
  • 753 Replies sorted by
  • VeskuVesku

    Here is sample frames of Potplayer deband filter. This is a 100% crop of GH4 4k video. I have sharpened images so that the effect is more visible. First is normal and second is with debanding filter.

    Looks like the filter adds dithering breaking the hard lines of banding. In very high pixel density 4k screen this looks like a 10 bit video because dithering makes more tones than 8bit can create. It also calms down the nervous bands and macro blocks. The effect is better in moving video than in frame sample.

    norm.jpg
    1648 x 930 - 1M
    deband.jpg
    1639 x 929 - 2M
  • sam_rides_a_mtbsam_rides_a_mtb

    some really accurate dithering is exactly what is going on there! if someone can findout how to do this in Premiere and other NLEs, there would be a lot of happy 8-bit shooters here! perhaps its already been discussed.

  • VeskuVesku

    The dithering and banding smoothing effect is best in player because if we re-render the smoothed video the banding will be there again. The codec renders out fine noise or dithering especially when using lower bitrate.

  • lmackreathlmackreath

    wondering what people have as their default metering mode for video? i set mine to multiple and then correct in post....wondered if people use centre weighted as their default and if so why?

  • BrigBrig

    I am old school: spotmeter! With which I look for approximate 18% parts in a picture (road, walls, roofs sometimes) or human faces or my hand, and then adjust what I feel like right. But that's when I use light meter AT ALL!!! Sadly ever since the LCD screen started showing framing on cameras, I forget that scene needs to be measured (a realy realy bad habit) and rely mostly on how it looks on the screen and then I regret for my lazyness and bad memory. On that token, sometimes I wonder if spotmeter on GH4 works propertly because on some occasions seems like it doesn't.

  • caveportcaveport

    I change the metering mode to suit the shot and lighting.

  • lmackreathlmackreath

    Ok todays question....white balance?...how do you set yours? what do you set it to? I know this is a bit of an open ended question, just wanted thoughts, those that use AWB and are happy, those that go custom for every shot etc. I have read and followed the theory of using simply 5600k setting for daylight regardless of weather and 3200 for indoors with lighting, and maybe 4500 for mixed lighting. this seems to work for me and when its not right its close and can be tweaked in post...anyone else use this method?

  • LukaszLukasz

    I use always manual (3200 & 5600 k)with good results..mixed lighting 4600k ..In my job as eng cameraman ,we always use the same method as well in bigger cameras. As my friend said once...If you make custom white balance in shadow so it looks like no shadow anymore. Anyway auto wb works great in gh4

  • lmackreathlmackreath

    so are we saying 5600 on its own is fine under daylight circumstances without any real need for changes in post? The threory is that if it is cloudy or overcast we should be looking at around 6000-6500...and even more for dalyight shade so in these cases wouldn't 5600 be to cold?

  • nobbystylusnobbystylus

    I tend to use 5500k for all daylight exteriors, and it usually works very well with a tiny fix if needed. Interiors I use 3200k and mixed lighting 4400k. I think the GH4 is a 'warm' image generally so cooling down the kelvins a touch is usually a good thing.

  • LukaszLukasz

    In Canon i used 6200 sometimes to get it warmer if needed.but in post is easy to correct for taste anyway

  • natureflixsnatureflixs

    Color temperature can be all over the place both inside an outside. Best to manual white balance.

  • BrigBrig

    Is there a knowledge consensus or a developed workflow/instructions that can help me figuring out and determine how and in what way changing parameters in GH4 profile settings affects a picture?!

    I am tired of watching the crystal ball to find out what 3/-2 Highlights or shadows, or sharpness to -3 and contrast -5 could do to a picture?I mean more in a analitical and controled understanding of effect, cause I see the results what it does at the end, but I would like to develop a predictability system at least so I know which buttons to play around (if you do this and set this to certain leven-then that will affect a picture in relationship to where some other this and that will do...).

    From what I see, everybody relies on trial and error approach to determine what works for them? Is there a help and guidenence of some sort that I can rely on figuring out best settings for myself? I guess big problem is because the real quality of GH4 video picture lies in post work and not neccesserely in the original file shot on camera! P.S. Similarly, whats the best way to figure out the parameters of picture that is already shot (is there a tool in FCP or Premiere that shows metadata?). I found some footage I shot couple of days ago that looks amazing but have no idea what kind of settings I had on.

    TIA!

  • caveportcaveport

    @Brig Shoot a test chart with controlled lighting & try all the settings in a systematic process. Keep notes for each setup. Use video scopes to see what each change does to the chart. Make notes. Also read the GH4 manual to see what the setup functions do. There is no simple answer as all the settings are just tools to deal with specific scene requirements. The settings will affect each other when used in different combinations. It's better to understand each setting individually and it's intended purpose & then you will know which settings will help get a good image when dealing with scenes you are shooting.

    GH4 internal setups are not recorded as metadata. You could use an identical setup on a different scene and get bad results as every scene is unique.

  • Zaven13Zaven13

    @Brig I did my testing similar to what @caveport suggested above. I setup the camera on a tripod and recorded myself sitting in a chair with bright color short and shirt articulating in the video the specifics of the profile with various profiles and even modified settings of each profile. Then I look at the test files on a larger PC screen for differences. I even import the files in Premiere pro and using picture-in-picture, I put 4 profiles next to each other and render the timeline. Then I play it on big screen and compare. In a nutshell, The more you move the settings toward (-) side the flatter picture you get (less contrast, less saturation and less sharpness, more dynamic range). This fits better for more post work. The opposite is true using (+) side of settings which would minimize work in post. As for metadata after you shoot, you can see most of the information during in camera playback using one of the DISP button views. I believe I have been able to see the metadata for picture in Adobe Lightroom and for video in DaVinci Resolve. Hope this helps.

  • VeskuVesku

    Exiftool program shows very much of GH4 video metadata. It tells profile, contrast, sharpness, NR, exposure, EV, iso, exposure program, objective focal mm, etc. It is funny and sad that the GH4 wont show exposure values during shooting but still writes values to exif.

    I have wondered if the -5 contrast has more dynamic range than 0 or has it just different curve and the absolute dynamic range is the same?

  • caveportcaveport

    Absolute dynamic range is determined by the sensor. It's just a different curve.

  • caveportcaveport

    I tried Exiftool on Mac but it does not show much metadata at all for quicktime movies from the GH4.

  • VeskuVesku

    @caveport

    Exiftool in my PC tells quite much:

    http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/14012/exif-data-in-panasonic-cameras#Item_2

  • BrigBrig

    Thanks everybody for their answers! I am very grateful for your help!

    But also sad about it:(

    Your answers basicly tells us that 2 years after camera is out, one still needs to do the ground work by himself about figuring out the basics of the tools:(

    Collective knowledge does not have a way to be systematized and used for "future generations"...

    Its not that I am lazy to run tests! It's just that if I do them, with my limiting knowledge in postprocessing digital picture and inadequate hardware I have (non calibrated monitors, outdated processors), my tests will rather be "playing around" and not proper TEST with correct results and conclusions. And whoever comes after me with similar problem like mine will have to do his own again and again, becase my results will be of little value to him/her. So where is improvement there if we are turning in same old circle...?!

    Ok, let me try PLAN B:

    If we assume that post processing and handling of my footage will be handled by a top postprocessing people, what settings should I use when shooting internal UHD with 24fps, in order to obtain the best possible image in a run'n'gun scenario (doc movie)?

    As of today, june 2016, what is considered a optimal settings? What profile, luma, contrast etc settings would you suggest?!

    P.S.

    How much in F-stop values can I count on be on my side when salvaging underexposed footage? If I underexpose for 1,5/2 stops, shadows will suck. Can I expect Leonardo who operates Davinci to perform a Miracle there?

    Also, if 100% zebras are blinking (in cine-D, 0-255) is that part of picture lost-LOST, or Leonardo can do something to somewhat save it?

  • caveportcaveport

    Do tests, use video scopes and eyes. You are asking people to give you a crash course on film making and camera basics. Perhaps a short photography or film course is best for you.

  • AzoAzo

    @Brig

    Maybe you should be a Director then? LOL... Ok seriously though at the very least purchase a Light Meter, ,Calibration Device for your Monitor, and a Passport Color Checker. If you are not willing to purchase the bare minimum tools then you are wasting your time IMO.

    In regards to settings the Natural profile works great as well as Cine D with the Leeming LUT. In terms of under or overexposure... again purchase a Light Meter because you don't have that much latitude in post. There are plenty of threads about using Natural as well as Cine D... Search and do your homework.

    I don't mean to come off condiscending with the (Search and do your homework) but the Picture Profiles have been covered numerous times. In short though my picture profile preference is Cine D with Pauls Leeming LUT along with his quickies applied. This fixes the funky colors with CineD and gives you the best dynamic range IMO and it is only $15.00 try it out you may like it.

  • VeskuVesku

    It is sad that the GH4 wont let to use FM quick buttons for image adjustments. It would be much easier to adjust profile, contrast, sat, etc. if there is an option to save image adjust to FN like was in GH2.

  • thetricksterthetrickster

    I'm too using Cine-D with the Leeming LUT.

    If I'm in a changing environment, with a bit of camera movement. I run my camera in shutter priority 1/50 (for PAL) and a base ISO of 800 and let the camera adjust the aperture, I run my GH4 with +2/3 Comp and centre weighted, so its exposing to the right, but not clipping the highlights, I have the zebras at 105% - just so I can see if anything is blowing that shouldn't be. If I'm static, I'll run it full manual with the same settings apart from selecting my own aperture.

    Would love to see which the aperture is (with in priority mode), as I'm guessing what the hyperfocal is and mostly hoping I've got enough Dof!

  • caveportcaveport

    @Vesku "It is sad that the GH4 wont let to use FM quick buttons for image adjustments. It would be much easier to adjust profile, contrast, sat, etc. if there is an option to save image adjust to FN like was in GH2."

    That is really strange as I have image adjustments on my GH4 Fn buttons to do all my settings and I have them on the touch screen too!

    You seem to dislike the GH4 so much that I would suggest selling it and getting a different camera.

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