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Panasonic AG-AC90 topic and comparison with GH2, video test
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  • @tommy You can adjust it to a great degree but you also need to know what the settings do. Changing one can have unexpected results.

    The ND's are disappointing because it really needs them assuming it has the same sensors as the 160

  • @peternap if i will buy the camera i would get a variable ND but another issue is that the lens hood is fixed so it is perhaps difficult (if not impossible) to access and turn the ND :(

  • @tommy Thanks for the extra videos. Even though they are clearly stress tests Im actually pretty damn impressed by the quality shown in these clips. The noise seems pretty fine and im guessing the image detail doesn't mush up too much at higher Db . Shame about lacking a ND but there might be a workaround.

    The dithering in the out of focus area in 0067 looks to me the AF working overtime. My VG did this. I bet if you shot the same and locked the focus it would solve the dithering.

  • I checked out tommy's 1080p50 AC90 AVCHD files in Stream Parser and Elecard Streameye. They're recorded at 28Mbps with a 24-frame IPB GOP. The AC90's AVCHD encoder uses both 4x4 and 8x8 quantizer matrices, much like the AF100 and GH3. From what I saw, the AC90 records much like an AF100 with a small 3MOS sensor. Looks like a very good choice for a compact shoulder-mount videocam with a fast motorized zoom and advanced image stabilization.

  • @tommy Are you saying the hood can't be removed? If it will come off which it should, either use the ND's without the hood or use a screw on hood on the ND and turn the whole thing. I have a couple of aluminum wide angle screw in hoods I use for that.

    This is the hood but you can get them for about 9 bucks if you look. http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Pixco-82mm-Wide-Angle-Metal-Lens-Hood-Black-Aluminum/701997_445460921.html

  • After a bit of editing with the footage. I would say id rather buy this camera than the GH3. :-D

  • Can anyone tell me what is the difference with X900 in video part?

    As I remember Panasonic is quite famous for using such approach on semi-pro cameras.

  • @LPowell THANKS! This sounds great!!! Although (to be honest) it doesn't say me much ;-) But I like the sound of: "much like the AF100 and GH3"
    If you can tell more about the files (or where I can read more about quantizer / GOP meaning) I am always interested.

    @peternap See picture. Yes I am saying the whole large lens hood can not be removed. (at least that is what I heard). The lens protection cap also goes in the hood and I suppose the Variable ND needs to be close to lens (otherwise I could screw a hood on the lens, with the ND on that and a lens cap on there. )

    lens-hood-.jpg
    531 x 591 - 183K
  • @tommy That sucks! I'll be honest, I'd start looking at other models before I bought that. I'm sure there's a workaround for the filters but it doesn't make any sense to me to pay two grand for a new camera and immediately start jury rigging something as basic as filters. I'd keep thinking "WHAT'S NEXT"

  • @tommy Here's a short intro to AVCHD video stream structure:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Group_of_pictures

  • @Vitaliy Damn! You got a point there! :-D

  • @Vitaliy_Kiselev @mimirsan I think I am missing the point. Are you saying the AC90 is a X900 camera in a different body? This is the case with most prosumer / semi professional camera's. But I know now (and understand) that I have to pay for XLR, more buttons, body etc. It does have a better OIS but indeed even a smaller (different) sensor.

  • @tommy

    As far as I understand sensors are the same, as well as all video parts.

  • @peternap 9.28 As you can read in this topic, I had many cameras in option. There sure is no perfect one. So I don't think, that 'thinking' will help me ;-)

    • AC130/160 = 3-5 times more expensive for a bit bigger sensor, ND, and a worse OIS
    • FS100 = I don't think is suitable for me (handling, off the road, documentary, etc)
    • NEX EA50 - Like the NEX5 / VG20 moire/ aliasing.
    • GH3 - It still has no XLR etc, and I already have the GH2 (and also want to have a camera for more corporate things)

    What camera (s) do you have?

    @Vitaliy_Kiselev Thanks . But I read you (really) liked the X900, right? So I pay some extra for XLR, buttons, etc. Would you not go for it (in my case)? I think I am running out of possibilities

  • @tommy I have the AC160.

    The AC130 is about 3,000.00 which is a long way from 3 to 5 times more expensive. The OIS is fine except at full zoom and they are all iffy at full zoom.

    You're right, there is no single camera that does it all and I have 5 for various things (Not counting POV's)...but I could live with the 160 only, if I had to.

    Just figure what you do the most of and make it work for the rest.

  • @tommy The Nokton f/0.95 lenses have a VERY different look from the 20mm f/1.7. I enjoy using both of them and have used the 20mm pancake for everything from professional portrait stills to timelapse and music videos. It is a different look, like I said, but it is not a bad one at all and it is both fast and detailed for the money.

    If you want a softer look with fast glass, look into using vintage Rokkor lenses. I am quite fond of the 58mm f/1.4. It is softer than the Nokton but has beautiful bokeh and can be picked up for well under $130.

    Anyway, there are tons of good fast lenses you can pick up for the GH2 without spending as much as a Nokton. They just are not quite as fast and they (once again) have a different look.

    Here is a still that was shot at a fairly high ISO with the 20mm f/1.7 - it has been scaled down and watermarked but you can get some idea of the character of the bokeh. Shot with Dynamic B&W RAW+JPG. This is the JPG version (I would use the RAW if I wanted to recover the highlight recovery, obviously).

    http://perlichtman.com/pasdenapulse/wordpress/2012/03/09/emma-and-molly/_1730987/

    And here's a long exposure averaged from a few shots, with the 20mm used with a lower ISO.

    http://perlichtman.com/pasdenapulse/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/2011-10-04-GP-Brightest-Only-Set-04.jpg

    And here is some of the NAMM show coverage I shot earlier this year (with the infamously poor audio since my shotgun mic mount broke right before the show and I had to use the internal). All of it shot with the 20mm f/1.7, including the intro.

  • @thepalalias thnx I bought the 20mm pancake that same day. I already filmed and edited it. And like it very much. I have a vintage 50mm minolta f1.6 that is soft as well

  • @tommy Sounds like you're in good shape. :)

  • I think I'll purchase the AC90. As the lenshood is fixed, I think it is difficult to reach and 'turn' a variable ND filter. Does anyone have a clue how to bypass/ fix this? I don't have experience with filter holders or a mattebox and because the lenshood is fixed they might also won't fit / or can not be mounted as well.

    Hope to hear some creative ideas about this (besides braking / sawing the lens hood off)

  • Tommy, this is an excellent analysis of the camera. I must admit, this totally didn't register on my radar and I was all set to wait for the VG30 from Sony.

    Now you've got me in a pickle.........

    Low-light is a major one for me, second is DOF. Reading your account and Barry Green's, i don't think the camera will have any issues in low-light. So how does the DOF compare with some other cameras? I have an AC160, GH2 and a Panasonic SD900. We want to replace the SD900 as we believe it to be the worst performer for what we need. Will this camera give any greater DOF than the SD900 do you think? I believe it will based on the 1.5 f lens.

    I hate the auto-focus of the 160, i use manual pretty much 99% of the time and it does me proud with that but we use the 900 for shots that have to be captured quick and i really wish the 160 could do auto-focus like the 900 does. So next question, auto focus on par with the 900?

    I realize these questions will be impossible to answer without having used a SD900 but worth a shot i thought!

    Cheers

  • I was an owner of a GH1, GH2 and HMC-40. The HMC-40 was an amazing camera outdoors in good lighting but quickly fell apart in low light. It had massive amounts of gain but the image really started to turn to noise mush above 12db. I recently had to sell my HMC-40 because it just couldn't hold against my GH1 and GH2 in low light. Even the GH1 with the fixed pattern noise could handle low light better at ISO 640.

    The AC90 on the other hand from the test looks great. It seems to handle low light much better then the HMC-40. From what I understand on it's own it may be slower but the lens starts at f1.5 which compensates. At 0db they may be about the same but the grain is apparently much cleaner on the AC90. There are times when I really miss having both types of cameras. I don't do a lot of projects that require a true video camera anymore so getting a better camera is out of the budget but the AC90 may be a great camera to replace my HMC-40 I sold.

    I would be curious to see just how clean the camera is at different db levels.

    I should also point out that a GH2 would still spank the AC90 with a good fast lens at f1.8 or faster. So this shouldn't be viewed from the perspective that it really is as sensitive as the GH2. The 14:140 lens is very slow. Still a great test since many times the zooms are more practical to shoot with in environments where you would also want to use the AC90.

  • @Sph1nxster I don't have a SD900. The AC90 is the little brother of the AG-AC130. I would expect cheaper (undressed) models to be less good, but I think the AC90 uses newer technology and therefor in some ways is better. For example the BIS 3MOS sensor is better in low light, better 5 axes OIS, etc. I heard (rumors) that same technology will be used in the successors of the AC130. I emailed Panasonic with some technical questions, and wait for respond.

    In my opinion the auto focus is fast and accurate (not like Gh2's rack focus, that zooms in and out...) Here is a test shot: http://wtrns.fr/rm_gyTBe8d7zyw A pan from (too) close by flowers in the shadow! to a couch with a colorful blanket in the sun. Although the couch is over exposed I think it is quite good, but you should test it yourself. Please let me know what you think

    When I have the camera, I will try to change some settings, so auto exposure is a bit less.

    DOF, is hard to say. I think it is quite well for a little sensor, because F 1.5. Because it has a good OIS, you can go more tele handheld to get some more DOF as well. The aperture goes only to 11 and than closes and you loose your DOF. I did most tests outdoor in bright sun, and didn't have a ND filter, so that is the main problem.

    I hope to hear some good solutions for my question / post above (Oct 1st). How to keep your aperture between 1.5-4 (for DOF) in day light. Variable ND / filter holder / small matte box, but how do i know if it will fit (because the lens hood is not removable.

    I will get the camera in the end of this month, but will immediately go abroad to film. Therefor I need to order some variable ND / filter holder now. Hope you (or others) have some idea

  • @smetvid I now have the 20mm pancake, but unfortunately don't have the AC90 anymore to test it. (The end of the month I'll have it...) Do you have a nice filter holder / mattebox / variabel ND solution for this?

  • @Mimirsan @smetvid @Sph1nxster @zigizigi @mozes @brianluce @John_Farragut

    Hereby some of your questions I couldn't answer before. I got the information mostly from Jan Crittenden Livingston (Panasonic)

    • LCD: 8.8 cm ( 3.5 inches) wide LCD monitor (Approx. 1152 K dots)

    • Viewfinder: 0.61 cm (0.24 inches) wide EVF (Approx. 263 K dots)

    • In build seamless automatic ND (exact same as HMC40)

    • Low light: 1/4 BSI 3MOS would be similar to AC160 1/3 3MOS

    • AVCHD 2.0

    • Similar camera as the Z10000 (only USD 1600 cheaper, and no 3D options)

    • Dimensions (W X H X D): 160 mm x 195 mm x 350 mm excluding protruding parts (6-5/16 inches x 7-11/16 inches x 13-1/16 inches)

    • (Clean) 4:2:2 HDMI out

    According to them:

    • the AC90 is VERY sharp and may actually out-resolve the chips in the AC130 by a bit. It uses three over- HD chips (I think 2.3k-ish) and then uses spatial offset to turn that into a 4K image, which then gets down converted to 1080P upon recording. It is super sharp, super crisp, and super clean.

    • About the automatic ND: The system uses zero ND filtration when the iris is set between f/1.5 to f/2.8. If you "stop down" the lens past f/2.8, the iris doesn't actually change at all. The system adds a little bit of ND filter to make the same exposure as if you'd actually stopped down the iris. It brings in more and more ND until you hit f/6.4 when the iris display reads out f/6.4, it's actually f/2.8 plus all the ND filter the camera can deliver. If you stop the iris down any further, it actually starts closing the iris again.

    This has two massive benefits: 1) It delivers seamless exposure changes 2) It keeps the iris in the "sweet spot" for as long as possible, avoiding the crippling issues of diffraction. If they'd gone with true iris changes, diffraction would start mushing up the image as early as f/4 (and, in the red channel, as early as f/2.8!) By the time you got to f/11, the image would be a total mush of soft, fuzzy, out-of-focus nothingness. But by doing it this way, they avoid diffraction entirely down to about f/10. F/8 is pretty much diffraction-free. It's really clever engineering to avoid the serious side effects that could occur, from using such a small chip.

    To get rid of (some) over exposed highlighting (I had in my test) in auto settings:

    • use cinelike-D gamma (or, if any other gamma, use KNEE set to LOW), and drop the color saturation down some (maybe -3 or so).

    • To lower overall exposure to avoid highlight clipping, you could set the Auto Iris level setting to a negative value, each increment accounts for about 1/6-stop drop of exposure.

    • For the flattest image for grading, use cinelike-D, norm1 matrix, drop the color saturation, and maybe raise the master pedestal about to +2 or so.

  • @tommy

    I think it is almost exactly same camera as X900, not Z10000.