I have a tiffen 1/8 lo contrast filter - only used it once since getting it on sunny exteriors, but it definitely left me with shadow details to work with. Must use it more!

If what you're aiming for is simply lowering the contrast for a "flatter" image, you may want to look for Ultra Cons instead, which don't have the halation around highlights and what-not a Low Con has. I like the look of Low Cons a lot, but it's a particular aesthetic that is what it is, not a short-cut to creating a flat picture style for grading. The most sterling use of Low Cons must be Kubrick - the #3 on "Barry Lyndon", and a #1 on "Eyes Wide Shut".

Don't the Ultra Cons produce higher contrast instead on lower? As long as I know they are used for stars and galaxies shots.

Since I use Yashica manual lens 28-105mm 2.8 with rear thread 72mm, it's a real headache to find 72mm low contrast filter.

Like Psyco said, in spite of it's confusing name, the Ultra Con lowers contrast, and the number relates to strength of the effect. Low cons are not technically a mist/diffusion filter, but they do act like one! (I've got #1 thru #3, and like I said I like em, but wouldn't use them on everything, or even most things) Ultra Cons are a more recent invention, which lift the blacks but don't have the misty effect. Ultra Cons will flare on you, though.

Now, how well do any of these do for improving DR? Maybe a little, but unless you want to start and end "milky" in the blacks (sometimes I do for a "pastel" look), I'm not sure it gives you much detail. Especially with the better patches from Driftwood or Lee Powell, you have more detail in those shadows than you might think. With a camera like the GH2, I like getting the look close in-camera. On the other hand, Shian has posted good tips on this sight for lighting to get an image that's very grade-able.

Yes, and there is even #4 which I really want to buy.

Probably so, yeah. I just stay in and curse the heavens those days!

If you wanted to compress contrast without diffusing effect magenta color correction filter will do that. Useful dynamic range is better.

I have attached three screen grabs from GH1 video from a high contrast scene. I used a Tiffen CC40M filter. In After Effects I applied a green photo filter with 40% value to offset the magenta. Now the image is desaturated and the captured compressed contrast is seen. Values have been shifted to the left, which means dark hues were encoded at higher level. Now there is room to apply curve to simulate blooming high-lights that seems to be the desired look these days. In the final version you could also see that the color gradients are smooth.

Also. You'll need a higher data rate for haze. I can't tell you which patches to use for it. But the sub 100 Mb/s patches tend to hate haze and smoke, whereas 130Mb/s and above never have an issue.

The all patches will actually drop the data rate when haze is used, and on the lower Bit rate patches this will create massive macro blocking.

To avoid these have a flag or sheet of black wrap on standby. And read that with the spot meter when the fog is perfect, then keep using it as a reference to how thick/thin the haze should be.

Great tip added to my list of tricks.

I have a 3x3 (cokin A sized) Hitech Ultra Con permanently on my 1/3" Sony Handycam .. it helps.

I did a very quick comparison with my Tiffen Ultra Con2 a couple weeks ago. Take a look for yourself.

Which one looks more grade-able? Look into the garage bays.

@Psyco - That was a 2. It's the only one that I have at the moment. You have to be very careful as to any lens hits. The subject was under an ez up tent, so his lighting was very even, I wanted to see more of what the filter would do in regards to the background holding exposure as well as, seeing more detail in the bays. I think it worked pretty well. I think the 1/4 may be a little too little, but it may work for applications inside better. The 2 can get pretty milky...

What do you think, guys, about Skywatcher Ultra High Contrast Filter 1.25"?

Is it suitable for our purposes?