@jeffgibbstc, I was using VY Mysteron Night with the 14-42 panasonic kit lens, oh and the closeup of the Pansonic sign was shot on EX Tele, so that one was a bit of a shock to see it looking so clean. I can't wait to use a faster lens! Also Jeff, though I didn't notice problems with yellow and greens specifically, I had what may be the opposite using the night patch. A giant neon sign that was clearly Orange was red in the videos. I even shifted the white balance all the way over to the yellow spectrum to see if it corrected, with no such luck. Curious, since reds and yellows showed up fine. I need to check for other oranges I may have caught to see if this was an isolated sign vs camera issue.

@mee Agreed, colour rendition is the only outstanding issue. I find that manually correcting WB with the old two clicks left one click down for skin tones does help a lot with orange. Had an indoor shot the other day testing CM Skin Tone soft where there was an orange lantern in the background that came out exactly correct (but I appreciate this was probably just a particularly lucky orange colour). Also, neon orange is going to be a wholly different proposition probably. @JeffGibbsTC yellow/green being too fierce has always been an issue, you have to pull the green back on pretty much every shot as there is a green cast on everything you shoot with a GH2. Basically there are issues accross the whole spectrum with the camera, but its all correctable with colour correction, plus it varies a fair bit with different film modes.

I just buy the GH2 Not so long ago, I am EXTREMELY surprised at the result ... it's pretty amazing, when you go to the panasonic firmware hack (Sedna AQ1 and Canis Majoris) I'm still on your ass. : D I'll give something for the tremendous work done, as soon as I received my pay :)

Just to know, sometimes hack the device with the plant and there's no way to turn off, remove the battery apart, I hope this does not damage my GH2 :/ I press right off and I pull the battery out. I wait a few seconds and then I turn it on.

thank you in advance for your precisions

Just to get a summary of the last weeks of patches I would be grateful if someone could just briefly tell me what's the patch you currently like the most.

I'm using v4b Orion but according to many people, it seems like Canis Day is maybe better in details, and maybe also when it comes to grading? What's your thoughts about which is the most useful patch for daylight filming?

(Interesting with the night version btw.)

"Mee" thank you, Cam reassuring because it happened to me happened when even 15 times, if not more .. my errors writing often turns into a crash (when I use the FSH and HBR) Finally I got scared because of the instructions, precautions should I take scary anyway, speaking of the device that "could to function normally ": D I try to follow the advice thepalalias but it is true that orion and Canis Night, are not listed on the table, I should try on Sedna AQ1 ... and respect what you told me: D, I find it prettier colors on Sedna AQ1 A but I find the sharper image on the canis night, after I did not try Canis Day ... I tried to see what it gives like knowing that my goal and not to film the night but the limit in the evening.

Well I am reassured to see that this case is solid GH2: D

Swan--CM Day PM test, 14-140mm, high contrast.

Another view of Swan, tired of wrestling with Vimeo today, this is compressed but seems like a good representation of what CM Day PM can do.

Through having a picky eye, we see faults everywhere: D

@CurtisMack Its hard to say, I definitely feel that it does result in better sampled chroma channels, but this doesn't necessarily mean the colours themselves will be anymore accurate. I don't believe that you need a filter to accomplish this either, you can just set your WB manually on a green card. But if its something you intend to do always then yep get a magenta filter and create (in a studio setup to make damn sure you've covered the entire range from black to white) a good LUT or constant workflow/script to do your conversion to remove the filters cast. It is a PITA workflow and not one I intend to use. I'm happy knowing the camera limitations, what I need to do to on a given shot, and what I'm going to need to do to colour correct it. I have noticed that it does improve things with regard to banding, but still its not worth following that approach for me personally. I mainly shoot with bkmcwds GOP 3 settings and rely on the less compressed I-Frames to sort out most potential banding issues.

Thing is the new matrices that driftwood is providing are having a dramatic effect on the way the chroma is being encoded as it is. I've been playing around with CM Skin Tone shot footage today and I've noticed a great improvement in the red channel and, I feel, (but this is just a gut feeling) a worrying drop in the blue channel (which is a shame as the specularity of white skin for example is mostly blueish). Driftwood is doing great work with the matrix settings, and it is having a positive effect on colour rendition. If we do get to alter film modes then maybe we can sort it all out once and for all, but as we're getting enough data to fix most of the incorrect colours I'm not that fussed myself. Oh and don't underestimate the effect of the green cast the camera gives, taking that out well has a large effect on every colour, maybe thats what the magenta filter approach is mostly doing.

@AlexManta just wanted to know where you bought sandisk 30mb for 10$ not at bic camera for sure???

Really! I could use ten of them!

@Stray Good post and information, Thanks!

Yes I have also this problem and at the same place, you really pulled recess in the dark to see but ISO 800, in the dark it is almost invisible ... Finally, I'd have another opinion on the subject, if other people also this phenomenon, ca already be more reassuring: D

@thepalalias,

"CM Night has been very clean and very detailed during my daylight testing so far - I have not scene any situation where it did worse in those areas so far."

Thanks. It's a result anyway!

@5thwall "i found that shooting at standard all 0 hid the issue"

I've just checked this issue with this "horizontal line" as @gokuan003 wrote previously.

All I can confirm is that on my GH2 this issue DOES NOT go away even if you shoot at standard or other picture profile. From my point of view this shitty line appears starting from ISO 1250 (during some shots it's hard to notice but it is there!).

@Vitaliy_Kiselev, @driftwood - I wish you could help us on this issue with this shitty line during high ISOs...