@jvalal Here is what all of the modes using the AVCHD codec mean. Note that the NTSC numbers are rounded to the nearest frame (e.g. 60P) or field (60i). Note that a field is only half a frame, but that is a whole other topic you can find information on elsewhere.

• 24H: 1920x1080, 24 fps, higher bitrate.
• 24L: 1920x1080, 24 fps, lower bitrate.
• HBR: 1920x1080, 25 fps (PAL) or 30 fps (NTSC).
• FSH: 1920x1080, 50 fields, not frames (PAL) or 60 fields (NTSC), higher bitrate.
• FH: 1920x1080, 50 fields, not frames (PAL) or 60 fields (NTSC), lower bitrate.
• SH: 1280x720, 50 fps (PAL) or 60 fsp (NTSC), higher bitrate.
• H: 1280x720, 50 fps (PAL) or 60 fsp (NTSC), lower bitrate.

You can also use "24H" or "24L" in the "Variable Movie Mode" (VMM). VMM shoots 1920x1080 footage at different frame rates without sound, then plays it back at 24 fps. The % indicated is how fast (or slow) the footage plays back vs the rate at which it happened. For example:

• 80%: Shoots 30 fps, then plays it back slowed down to 80% of the original speed. 30X0.80 = 24.
• 300%: Shoots 8 fps, then plays it back sped up to 300% of the original speed. 8X3.00 = 24.

Now that you know what all the rates are, here is the most important part to remember. Camera is setup to be able to handle the most detail when shooting 24 frames per second. When Driftwood makes patches, his first priority is the performance in 24H mode - he does not really test 24L.

So if you are shooting Driftwood and want to get the very best image quality, then use 24H.

You can also see what modes do and do not span for certain memory cards using different settings. I just started testing it last night, so it is very incomplete, but it makes a decent starting point.

http://perlichtman.com/pasdenapulse/wordpress/gh2-hack-reference/

That chart may also help @bmcent1 to find settings that work in the preferred shooting modes. @Bmcent1 The 24H modes will always have the best image quality, whether they are in VMM or not.

@jvalal As far as "M" in "Exposure Mode", yes that gives you full manual control in "Movie M" mode. If you use that, what you see before you start shooting and what you see when you are shooting should be closer. There are other configuration options that make a difference, but I won't get into those here. Good luck!

@thepalalias ok, learning more. Where do I set 24H? I see in the camera mode (Manual movie, HBR, Cinema, and then Variable). When I go into variable mode I only see % 80,160...

@thepalalias yep. Man so many hidden features.

@thepalalias I get confused on the Driftwood posts. For ex. Orion Darkmatter patch states"...Details: Featuring the new 'Dark Matter' matrix set (three version variations) based on current Orion Matrix with hi/lo freq adjustments. Plus 720p on 9/6 GOP..."

Does this mean it only shoots 720P? Looking at other patches they also say 720P, yet I thought I was capturing at 1080p? Confused.

@jrd Thanks I played around with my GH2 a little and im pretty sure I got the hang of things now! :D

These aren't hidden features. They're well documented in your GH2 manual. Also, read the FAQs. http://www.personal-view.com/faqs/gh2-usage/gh2-usage

Well, I've read the manual, and quite a few posts here and elsewhere, but it's quite a lot of information, and though the answers may well be out there, they can still get lost at times... for me anyway.

I've read that the GH2 can't really do 1080 30p... that it's always 1080i, but then can be fixed to be 1080p in post.... then I've read that it CAN do 1080p at 30fps with the new firmware... then I've read that it still isn't true progressive, and still needs to be fixed in post. It's hard to tell sometimes whether the posts and responses are accurate or outdated.

Basically, just wondering if there's a specific stable hack that not only makes sure it's true progressive, but makes the post process easier in general by outputting a format that's easy to import and work with in AE. For instance, is AVCHD really what I want in this scenario, or something else?

I don't know much about the compression codecs... just enough to understand that I'd prefer something that doesn't need to be converted/decoded in order to be imported and edited. I know how to use AE, but I've never used the various compression codecs before.

Also, doing greenscreen work, so wanting to make sure that of all the things that could be squashed in the name of bitrate, that color info is the least harmed.

@gregsage, I'm just getting started with this camera too and the manual isn't laid out the clearest. Add all the jargon of the settings (aka hacks) and it is a lot to digest in the beginning. But, keep reading and it starts to come into focus.

Regarding your questions: "Basically, just wondering if there's a specific stable hack that not only makes sure it's true progressive, but makes the post process easier in general by outputting a format that's easy to import and work with in AE. For instance, is AVCHD really what I want in this scenario, or something else?"

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think any of these settings/hacks changes the record modes (24 Cinema, Variable Movie Mode, HBR, SH, etc.) of the camera in terms of output fps rate or progressive/interlaced output, nor do they change output file formats. They only optimize the way the AVCHD codec that's built into the camera encodes the raw video by improving the tables it uses and bit rate settings.

@Vitaliy_Kiselev 's tool has allowed removing some limits that were in the stock firmware such as ISO limited to 3200, allowing an NTSC/PAL switch, and enabling more languages but I believe all of these things were in the original firmware but locked out or set as toggles and ptool has allowed enabling them.

The are switching bits around within the existing firmware in places they can improve the camera but I don't think they can write brand new software and compile that into a firmware the camera can use. It's amazing what they're able to do by splicing parameters into the stock firmware.

@gregsage, if you don't care about sound and you want 30fps, try VMM 80% mode. It is 30fps played back at 24fps, you can easily speed it up by 25% to get back to 30fps in AE in post. I found it to be identical in quality with 24H (aka 1080p/24) in one test I did. In theory I think 24p should still do better but VMM 80% is your best 30 fps option. Try Sanity 4.1 or Sanity 5 or No Adverse Affects for good all around hacks. I started with those to get used to my camera. Then experiment with another patch if you find a particular need.

Well, I was thinking Sanity 5, except for all the warnings about it not spanning in HBR.

I've got a 95mbps 64GB card, though, so not sure if that makes a difference.

Looking into NAE... Taking up a lot of people's time on this shoot, so trying to make sure no snafus waste that time.

Greetings, I’m about to make a short film with the Panasonic GH2. I would like to know wich is the best hack up to date. I'm working with: SeaQuake - 24H - Sandisk 64GB Extreme Pro SDXC 95MB/s. ¿Is It there a higher hack version or am I good to go? Thanks

@gregsage

I always use the red button. I don't want the camera to refocus when I start a video. If you use the shutter button it will do that. If you use the red button it will not.

Whether hacked or just running stock firmware, you need to be in creative movie mode and select HBR to get 1080p/30.