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Video-Friendly Lenses for Lumix DSLRs
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  • @alcomposer Thanks for the evaluation of the Tokina 28-80mm f2.8, I added it to the list on page 1 of this thread. With Tokina zooms, the focus ring rotation is determined by the type of lens mount - so Nikon F-mount lenses rotate in the Nikon direction, and Canon EF-mount lenses rotate in the Canon/Lumix direction.

  • Fixed... Got a bit too overexcited... Really nice lens...Will be using this lens in the theatre for sure.

  • Well, if it's Nikon, focus is the other way 'round.

  • Ok... I just received the Tokina ATX-Pro 28-80mm 2.8 Nikon Mount lens:

    http://lensbuyersguide.com/en/lens/show/Tokina/AF28-80mm_f2.8_AT-X_PRO

    • Manual aperture ring: Yes
    • Direct-coupled focus ring: Yes
    • Proper focus ring rotation: Nikon direction
    • Non-rotating outer barrel: Yes
    • Non-extending outer barrel: Yes
    • Constant field of view: 80 Yes, (Closer to 28 breathing is noticeable)
    • Constant f-stop aperture: Yes
    • Rotational zoom ring: Yes
    • Parfocal zoom: Yes
  • Hi People... Just ordered: Tokina ATX-PRO 28-80mm 2.8 Aspherical Nikon mount

    (Will report back here- purchased for zoom work - should be par focal... and for low light theatre work) Fingers crossed!

  • astraban, thanks a lot for your response clarifying this. I really appreciate it. Now can purchase one being more confident about it.

  • @willianaleman Not all the lenses listed have autofocus in the first place. For those that have it working on the GH2, it's because there is adapters with electric contacts (4/3 to m4/3) from panasonic & olympus - even cheap chinese one, cf. http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/1612

  • GH2 Lenses with Adapter and Auto Focus?

    It has been mentioned on this topic that all the lenses listed  by DPowell work with auto-focus. However, all these lenses with the  exception of the Panasonic, require adapters. How is it possible that a lens requiring an adapter can work GH2 in  auto-focus? Could you clarify this for me. I'm really confused about. Thanks 

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  • I recall the Tokina ATX Pro 28-70/2.6-2.8 is basically the same lens as the Angenieux AF 28-70/2.6-2.8 that only came in Nikon mount. I have the Angenieux 35-70 and 70-210 zooms in FD mount. A few years ago, they were very cheap, until collectors drive their prices up unfortunately.

  • Got hold of the 4/3 Olympus 14-35mm, its a really, really amazing lens. Yes, the iris flicker is a drawback, but I do not zoom around anyways. (Thanks for the info about 2.8, did not recognize that!) Focus breathing is very low and even at 14 mm you can get your subject devided from background which is gently and elegantly blurred. Well, you know the specs from above.

    Now on the two real drawbacks:

    This lens is huge and very heavy. You don´t believe it until you hold it in your hand, this thing is like a brick. The cheap MFT mount plus the adapter add quite some play, so don´t even think about using this lense with a FF without an additional mounting point in the front. You could try to focus by hand, but due to the play you will as well easily add shaking to the picture. Sadly there is no matching lens support from Olympus available, at least none that encircles the lense completly and keeps it tight in position. So you will either need to buy one of those.. http://store.zacuto.com/studio-19mm-locking-lens-support.html .. of get one crafted as we did. Now this thing gets into the way if you want to use another, shorter lens, so you have slide of mattebox to get it out of the way on lens change... well, you get the point.

    The second drawback is the amount you need to rotate the focus ring to get from closest to infinite. While on many foto lenses the way is much to short, on the 14-35 it is really a bit to long. So you need 1.5 full turns on FF to get from closest to infinite. This can not be done with one hand. Might get a bigger gear wheel for the FF, but you still you run into problems if you want to do fast move from something far away to something really close.

    Beside these drawbacks I would really recommend this lens. Its a working horse indeed!

  • @LPowell

    Yes I was talking about the m4/3s lens. I didn't realize that the 4/3s version was the one we were talking about. I sure wish the m4/3s lens didn't do it.

  • @mpgxsvcd Perhaps you're thinking of the Micro 4/3rds version of the Panasonic 25mm f1.4? My copy of the legacy Four Thirds 25mm f1.4 has virtually no visible focus breathing.

  • The first post says that the 25mm does not focus breathe. It is actually almost as bad as the 20mm for focus breathing. It is really quiet though.

  • @Meierhans - The Olympus 14-35 has iris flicker / shifts while zooming on the GH2/Af100.
    From my research, only at f/2.8 does it not flicker while zooming. If you want to zoom while filming, you will notice this glitch and it's frustrating. If you want to use it like multiple fixed primes @ F/2, then it's amazing. Best footage I've ever taken was the AF100 / Oly 14-35mm @ F/2. Period.
  • @Meierhans
    Both Panasonic and Olympus make Four Thirds adapters that work equally well with all Panasonic and Olympus legacy Four Thirds lenses.
  • Planing to buy the Olympus 14-35mm f2.0 SWD Four-Thirds. Looking for quality 4/3 -> MFT adapter. Guess it needs to be have electrical connectors change aperture and use AF. Any hints?

  • @AlexManta

    Sure, just verify the mount, and get a suitable adaptor.
  • Hey guys, do you know if old Chinon's lenses can be adapted on a Gh2?? What do i need for that to work??
  • @p_hawks
    Great to hear that you like Russian lenses. I was looking at a few Jupiters just the other day, but decided to grab the couple of Carl Zeiss Jenas that were on offer instead. The Jupiter 11A , and 37 are quite solidly built, and are multicoated as well, but I thought I would rather get the real deal. The Jupiters were actually built on Sonnar architecture, so between the two, CZ was a no brainer.

    You might also want to check out the Tair lenses, and the Pentacons (or the older Meyers). Pentax Takumars and Minolta lenses are also quite fantastic. So are the Konica Hexanons - easily available and inexpensive

    I generally prefer European lenses. Right now, I shoot a lot with Flektogons (20mm, 35mm, 135mm), and a few Zeiss T* lenses, but I make an exception for 2 outstanding Japanese lenses - the Nokton 0.95 (Voigtlander), and the Revuenon 55mm (which some say is a remake of the venerable Tomioka).

    I generally avoid AF lenses even though I sometimes need to be on the run and gun. I take it as good practice for me to get my focus and exposure right, no recourse just get it right!
  • @kazuo, on the second page I posted about the helios 44-2. I am looking for more m42 glass, but most of it ships from the ukraine, which takes about 2 months to get to me (according to ebay). The helios is a solid lens, built like a tank, very smooth focus ring, nice vibrant color rendition. Anyways, I copied my post and pasted it below.

    I just got a helios 44-2 (58mm f2), and I love it so far. I heard that on these lenses oil on the aperture blades also isn't an issue, as many soviet lenses came from the factory that way. Anyways:
    Manual aperture ring: yes (very cool 2 ring system, allows you to open the lens and have a completely step less aperture if you wish)
    direct couple focus ring: yes
    proper focus ring rotation: counter-clockwise to infinity
    non-rotating outer barrel: yes
    non-extending outer barrel: no, extends about 1cm, maybe a little under (just from eyeballing it)
    constant field of view: no, appears to zoom out slightly when focussed towards infinity, thought I haven't tested this thoroughly
  • Only japanese lenses? What about the old M42 lenses?
  • Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 EX DC Four-Thirds

    Constant field of view = No.
    This lens breathes quite a bit; about as badly as the Leicasonic 14-50mm. The exposure does not flicker while zooming though at any f stop, but the focus shifts noticeably while zooming in and out. Autofocus isn't too bad on the GH2. Push to focus does not work on the AF-100 but auto-iris does.
  • @Psyco
    I've been using strict criteria to judge both focus ring operation and lens barrel extension.

    By "direct-coupled focus ring", I mean one that has both calibrated focus ring position and hard stops at each end of focus ring rotation. Reason being, you want to be assured that the focus ring will not slip after attaching the Follow Focus gear to it. This cannot be guaranteed on a lens that lacks hard stops on the focus ring.

    Regarding lens barrel extension, it doesn't matter whether it occurs due to focusing or to zooming. In either case, extension of the lens barrel will likely conflict with the use of a rails-mounted matte box.
  • @LPowell
    There is an error in your listing:

    "Olympus 14-35mm f2.0 SWD Four-Thirds

    * Direct-coupled focus ring: No"

    The 14-35 has a directly coupled focus ring. It is just friction coupled and if you turn it beyond min./max. it will slip further. But as long as you stay within these limits there is a mechanical connection between the ring and the focusing mechnism.

    Also the lens barrel extends, but only when zooming. It doesn't extend when only focusing - but I'm not sure which one counts for your "* Non-extending outer barrel: ?"
  • Has anyone tried the Sigma 10-20 f4-5.6 for static shooting or the olympus 12-60 f2.8 -4.0 as a all around camera?