@Tscheckoff yes i have an arm brace and it is better than nothing , thank u for u r u info i think i will skip the vest issue for now and ill give a second chance for myself and ill Train train and train :) thank You

@Vitaliy_Kiselev true what u said people like us may have addiction to buy gear . u r right i must try harder thanks for u r advice but if u have info about how much bad or good is the single arm i d like to hear if u have time .. thank You all for Your help i appreciate it

@Tscheckoff yeah i think so too this cheap vest needs a lot of DIY modification at least to change those hard springs and i am not that DIY man at all so i am afraid to do so , and as u mentioned the Laing is good quality but over priced to get it from outside ..

@Vitaliy_Kiselev thank You for u r help , do u mean by Gimbal the electric motorized ones ? if so , it is actually highly priced and again it must have its own learning curve and it must have pro and cons etc , and that is too much to do now and it also means that i failed with steadicam , and i like as the members in this thread told me not to give up quickly and i should try more

btw guys what do u think of single arm and vest , it is reasonable priced and even if it is low material the springs in many of them not that tight , i know it wont absorb operator movement but it must be a better way than handheld ? at least it will take my arm pain away and let me focus on composition

is it a good choice some people say that handheld the stablizer is better than the single arm , other reviews says it is better than handheld and i am confused about it ..

Well - Seems to be really one of the worse models.
The Laing X-15 vest + arm system seems to be quite ok (and also works with lower payloads).
But also not super cheap (and as you said - for sure not available locally) ...

Ah. Ok. I also know such plates for macro work. They work quite nicely. ^^
If you have that too, then a HD2000 / 4000 model makes absolutely no sense.

About the west: Hmm. Did you try to loosen up the weight adjustment knobs on both arm parts completely?
(As you can see here at point 10 in the diagram: http://www.sevenoak.biz/tools/products_down.ashx?id=46)

Btw.: Did you loosen them up while load was applied or without? (If you did it with load applied it maybe wasn´t possible because the springs where under load / strained. So the adjustment mechanism wasn´t working as it should.) I only found the max payload of 6kg - No minimum payload. But there are also many arms, which have a quite high minimum payload overall. Just a few are capable of carrying very wide payload ranges ...

About your last block / the first sentence: I don´t understand 100% what you´ve written - But if I understand it right -> Yes. Steadycams add alot of quality to videos (and they are worth the effort). But they also need ALOT of training. Btw.: With glidecams it´s the same like with sliders - A few people are REALLY good using super cheap standard sliders (even together with fluid heads on top). But they also needed alot of practice to get to that point - It didn´t happen from one day (or one week) to another ^^. The same applies to glidecams. You need to invest more time training with it. Also try out different droptimes for example (to find the best setting for yourself - Or for certain applications).

Btw.: Don´t give up that fast ^^ - It´s worth training & investing time according steadycams ...
(Also watch as much as possible of the training videos which are available online.
There you can also see how to properly walk and train overall for example.)

Have a nice day! LG

@Tscheckoff thank u very much , yes my stablizer can move the gimbal up and down and i use this feature a lot , i can balance my own rig and in the picture if u look close i have added a plate that is actually a 3d plate for mounting 2 cameras , but i use it for moving the camera side to side easy for more accurate fine adjustment ( as u mentioned yes i am good in primary balancing steadicams and in any shop i go they ask me to balance different rigs for new clients ) . as for the vest in my country we have just 1 vest in all of the cam shops and i do not know why ( actually it seems that they get it very cheap , on amazon they say that it is more than 800$ but they sell it here for less than 400$ !!!!!!! .. http://www.sevenoak.biz/products/show/472.html but when i tried to use it with my rig i found the arm very hard to push it down as if it needs much heavier rig or actually we couldnt use it at all , i tried with the tension knobs very hard but it still very hard to move it down i have to put very very much force to push it down , so i couldnt ever make it work

about why glidecam i thought there gimbal itself is much higher quality isnt it ? You know i was trying to use a good steadicam that all people use smoothly , so if i couldnt then it means that the problem is in me and i have to quit , but for now i am not sure is it me or is it the rig that is fault !! thank You very much

lol

I do. I employ his shimy and hip wiggle technique as my primary steadicam moves. Always impresses the client.

@AlexOh thank You for u r help but the test shots are not what all i need to do and using 4k action cam made a very ugly footage b4 ( actually it depends on how u use it and what u use it in ) for me it will not meet my needs specially ( when trying to match it with my 5d and also in the low light narrative shorts that i do ) , beside all that it is a new system and must have it is own learning curve that i do not want to start in , i am just wondering if getting the Glidecam HD 2000 or 4000 will make my life easier ?

For the shots in your test you can use a good 4k action camera which can be had for a couple hundred US dollars or less and a brushless gimbal which is cheap for that camera weight.

Keep your stedicam for slower shots where you can control the movment, need a different lens focal length and if needed you can add digital stabilization when editing.

Running with a steadycam is always a problem. It´s shaking already through the air resistance (and also through the inertia of the system). And you cannot touch the pole while running - That´s just not possible (it would add shakiness). I don´t know which solution you mean -> With only one hand. But I remeber a double handle solution, where the 2nd hand was then stabilised through the 2nd grip. So it added less shakiness gripping the pole AND removed also strain from the main hand. But that´s no real solution for your problem (as it was a DIY project which also takes time, money and resources).

In your case try different positions for your 2nd hand. And try to gain skills (using it that way). You need to invest more time. Btw.: Also only touch the pole with two fingers - And walk as steady as possible, as the 2nd hand is directly connected to the pole. So your movements are more important than if you only hold the steadycam over your right hand (which get´s compensated in big parts over the cardan joint of the steadycam).

Btw.: Overall a gimbal is way easier to use (and you can concentrate better on shooting). Altough: They are also more prone to dust (and sand)! So keep that in mind (if you plan to upgrade to one). You need to keep them as clean as possible (especially the newer models with 360° capable motors, which are running with "sliding contacts" - Not cables anymore) ^^.

For steadicam you need to use two hands. But you need good steadicam, good balancing and skill.