Personal View site logo
Sold: Rare anamorphic lenses
  • All lenses have been sold!
  • 17 Replies sorted by
  • Iscorama Anamorphot 1.5X - 54 adapter

    3136 x 2352 - 1M
    3136 x 2352 - 1M
    3136 x 2352 - 970K
  • Century Precision Optics 1.33X Anamorphic Converter

    3136 x 2352 - 1M
    3136 x 2352 - 1M
    3136 x 2352 - 1M
  • LOMO 35NAC4-10 Square Front 1.75X Anamorphic Adapter

    3136 x 2352 - 1M
    3136 x 2352 - 1M
    3136 x 2352 - 1M
  • Century Optics 1.33X Widescreen Eyepiece Adapter

    3136 x 2352 - 1M
    3136 x 2352 - 2M
    3136 x 2352 - 2M
  • Auctions have ended.
  • I may want to grab the Lomo, I was wondering, I have a 5DII (full frame obviously) and was wondering, can I get a 50mm lens to work on it and no vignetting do you think? or at least the Helios 44m (58mm)? Thanks and also was wondering, since it's stuck at infinity, that means I can just focus the taking lens and be able to rack focus with it with no issues?
  • @StephenB
    I think there's a good chance a 50mm prime would work with the Lomo without vignetting on the 5DMkII. Bear in mind that with a 1.75X squeeze factor, the Lomo creates a stretched aspect ratio of a little over 3:1. To get a 2.39:1 cinemascope frame size, you'd crop of the left and right edges, which would likely eliminate any vignetting in the corners. Your impression of focusing is correct, with the Lomo set at infinity, you simply focus the main lens as usual.
  • @LPowell
    The lomo that you sold above, is it the same one you hacked here:

    The reason I ask is because the one you hacked looked like it was pretty dirty and you mentioned it had fungus but the one you sold above looks beautifully clear. If it's the same lens how did you manage to clean it so well?

    I found a lomo in a bookshop in Istanbul which was in pretty bad condition and has lots of stains on the surface of the lens which create milky patches. I can work around the patches to a certain degree if I open up my taking lens quite wide, but I would prefer to have them removed entirely, so I was wondering how you did it.

    Here's some pics to show you what I mean:

    Many Thanks
  • @RJH
    I removed the front faceplate of the Lomo and was able to remove the front element. It's wedged in place with thin steel shims. I was then able to thoroughly disinfect the interior of the lens and polish the glass with toothpaste.

    The glass on my Lomo was only mildly discolored with a faint haze. It was easy to polish clean after I removed the front element. The Lomo in your linked photo looks severely corroded. I don't think I'd attempt to restore a lens in that condition.
  • @LPowell

    I have taken the lens apart before and cleaned inside although I didn't disinfect it so I should probably do that. I think you are right about the corrosion, it's there to stay...I had my fingers crossed you knew of some miracle cure. I've never thought of using toothpaste as polish, is it safe?!

    I shot this little test with it, it didn't perform too badly considering it cost me £20!:

    Thanks for your help :)
  • @RJH £20????? whereee????
  • jajajajja but with a good amount of fungus, but anyway was it ebay or a secret webpage, or?
  • @lolo

    I found it hiding on a dusty shelf in a bookshop in Istanbul and asked if I could buy it. It was in pretty poor condition, I cleaned it up as best I could but I couldn't get rid of those stains.
  • @RJH - "I've never thought of using toothpaste as polish, is it safe?"

    It's safe enough to use on your teeth, after all.
  • @LPowell

    :D Very true, but what is it especially that makes it good for polishing lenses?
  • Its an old scuba mask cleaning trick