@designatedmedia If you can put up with the existing lens/adapter combo for a while, you might get them apart later without straining anything.

If in a hurry, the usual mechanic's rules apply: worry them apart. If either the pin or the mount shows any microscopic play at all, then gently rock it through, a few minutes at a time, over a period of time. Moving one part with one hand may free up the other. Any heat, force or lubrication should be left to the technician.

I have also bought an RJ Lens Turbo and encountered some problems although I am surprised by the overall build quality ;) I have posted a short review on my blog:

http://sonneo.blogspot.de/2014/12/rj-lens-turbo-review.html

@Bernie

Do not worry, will be solved.

Note - some old lenses can damage such adapters.

Also suggest to attach much smaller photos.

Hi. After a year using this adapter with Nikon lenses, here's some remarks & questions about it:

-On nikon lenses with/without aperture ring at f/2.8, the maximum opening is only at the equivalent of f4 if you use the adapter's aperture ring instead of the lens' maximum (f/2.8 for the present exemple). Is that normal ?

-On the adapter'aperture ring, there's no indications for the iris opening (f1, f2.x, etc). Is there a way to compensate for this ?

Aside of those two points, the adapter seems to be ok and works well. I just hope that some modifications (mentioned on this forum) will come soon and perhaps a way to replace/modify the older models with some compensations. I mean, the manufacturer/seller for those could do some specials for people who bought older models but needs the new modifications. I'll show the caring for the customers and assure their faithfilness for future products.

What do you think about this ?

Hi everyone, I'm looking to get a focal reducer and I had a question. I'm sorry if this has been addressed before in this thread.

So I'm planning on purchasing a sony a7s to complement my gh4. I'm trying to plan my budget and I'd like to get a focal reducer. I was wondering if I should/would be able to get a single focal reducer (say an FD to Sony E) and then get a cheap Sony E to M4/3 adapter to use it on my gh4. Would the focal reducer still be as effective as an FD to m4/3 in this case?

Or should I just get an exclusive focal reducer for each mount? Thanks!

@aldolega well that makes sense. I had no idea. Thank you!

@aldolega

This is to put a MFT lens on an Emount camera with an adapter.

I don't own anything in E mount, but, bought on Amazon an E mount (cam mount) to MFT (lens mount) adapter. I recall that emount is a shorter FFD than MFT mount. The FAQ supports this: http://www.personal-view.com/faqs/camera-usage/lenses-mounts-faq

I bought one made by Fotodiox on Amazon. It looks like this generic one: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Micro-Olympus-Sony-Adapter/dp/B00DSGLZWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421280554&sr=8-1&keywords=MFT+m4%2F3+lens+to+Sony+NEX+adapter

Be aware that many adapters are made to guarantee infinity focus and therefore are made too short (so infinity is at say 10' on the lens scale). Stacking adapters, especially behind a speedbooster may yield focus issues.

@texpic wrote me some questions regarding the RJ after I have it for almost a year now (I participated in this thread earlier, around March '14). Anyways, he thought it might be beneficial for all so I'll just copy my answer to him:

Regarding the blue flare. I now was able to get it into the image, but that was only when I stopped down a lot, I think we were at f/8 or f/11. That's something I knew before, but at that day I simply forgot the NDs at home (as it wasn't an important shoot I didn't really care too much). Usually I wouldn't go to f/11 or so anyway, as I'd rather use a Lens without a Turbo in that case (if I want to stop down really hard there's no reason for an additional stop of light). Anyway, I "recently" bought a cheaper competitor from eBay, 70€ or so, and then I understood why people have a big deal with the blue dot: it happened a lot. Here's an example I uploaded some time ago, RJ vs the other one: https://www.dropbox.com/s/19xdf08ilbxiycp/rj-lengril-comparison.jpg?dl=0 That was wide-open, not stopped down a lot, on a Tokina 11-16mm (no idea which focal length)

Putting a Nikon->EF Adapter on top of the EF Turbo was something I tried, but in the end it's not really a beneficial combo. Maybe my NIK-EF Adapter is bad, but it simply intoduces a lot of wobble. This is, at best, only a temporary fix. That's actually the reason I bought the cheap adapter I told you about, because I wanted a native Nikon one (but save a bit of cash at that end). What I noticed it, it isn't worth to buy a cheaper Turbo (and the difference is only 30€ or so), and it seems that it isn't worth to get only one Turbo if you need Nikon+Canon. OM, Pentax, M42 - those adapters fit fine on the EF Turbo, and that works out. Simply because the adapters are generally a bit better and thicker. But the thin Nikon Adapters aren't that good for this. I know that the additional cost of a 2nd Turbo can be a problem for some, but in the end you are still cheaper with two Turbos in comparison to one Speedbooster... :)

Hope it helps out one or another

So Maximizer, FD to RJ EOS worked fine for you? no wobble?

Hi, same problem as Bernie. The tensioner ring is broke. Although I have shaved the rear aperture lever. I removed the tensioner ring. Is it essential?

After shooting with this adapter in bright conditions where I was stopping down to f/8-f/11, the blue dot is so bad that the footage is almost unusable. I suppose I could make a LUT or powergrade that color corrected the dot region and apply it to the entire timeline....

What is the lens you used? As thing called blue dot is actually happening due to reflections and is dependent on the lens used.

It was a Nikon 35mm AI at the time.

Hi everyone,

Recieved my RJ adapter (FD) within two weeks (I live in the Netherlands). It looks very good, and now I'm doing some testing. It doesn't fit too tight, there is al little play, I will have to look up how I can fix that. I couldn't get the aperture to work, it was stuck wide open. Untill I found out that I have to push the lever for the aperture on the back of the lens al the way untill it "stuck". Then screw it in the adapter and then set the adapter to lock. Is this a normal procedure for this adapter? It works with my Canon FD lenses but I also have a Kenlock lens and with this lens the lever can not be locked. I don't have another normal FD to m43 adapter so I can't compare the shots, but so far the images look very nice. Okay, my experience so far :) Tips are always welcome.