GH series do not have such issues with IR. But for strong filters it is always preferable to use good filters with IR cut. From affordable ones I suggest Skier.

Thanks for the replies Vitaliy and Tscheckoff. I was able to do a quick test yesterday and stacked 2 regular non-ir nd .9s and an nd .6 for a total of 8 stops and still did not get much of a shift. I did auto white balance in camera and then used the auto color effect in premier for a slight tweak. I think the stacking of the tiffen and schneider filters did more to alter skin tones than the blacks. That combo gave me a bit more pink in the skin tones.

I wonder if the IRNDs even at the higher densities would introduce more color shifts because of the ir filtration which doesn't seem to be necessary on this camera. I wonder if a Skier hot mirror out front would be too strong to stack with other regular nds to cut the minimal ir effects that one sees at very high densities on the GH4. Although I would prefer to not have to stack. My problem is that I have a larger cine zoom lens that can't take the screw in filters. So I have to stick with the 4x5.65 filters for that. It would make sense though to purchase some 77mm for the others for no other reason than to be free from the mattebox.

Has anyone tried other brands including the IRNDs such as Formatt Prostop IRND on the GH4? Notice any color shifts?

@Vitaliy, I assume you have had good results with the Skier. Did you stack them at all? If so, where there reflection problems with the hot mirror? I actually tried to order those before but they are out of the .9 and 1.2.

@Tscheckoff, I've heard good things about the Hoya ProNDs but I've also heard that he filtration is actually a coating on top of the glass and not between the glass like other filters. I've heard its more prone to scratching because of this. What are your thoughts?

@kinopoietes:

Well - About the IR filtration: I never tried them (the Hoya ProNDs) til now on a GH4. But on a GH2 for example the UV/IR cut filter is helping to avoid IR contamination with the stronger filter strengths (and it also helps a little bit according the purple fringing of my Yashica ML C/Y lenses - The UV cut). About the lens which isn´t accepting screw on filters - You could use a 4x4 (or a 4x5.65) filter holder for that one - There are adapters available for 82mm or 77mm for example. Though: You´re normaly blocking the 2nd filter tray with such a solution (only if you´re using it at the front filter slot, it´s not blocking anything - Anyway - It would be at least possible to use the screw on filters with that lens ^^. And it´s nice to use your most used filters wihtout a mattebox as "must have" ...

About the ProNDs and scratches: Well - I can confirm this. The surface is quite prone to damages (at least I think it is). At least cleaning it is already a challenge - THOUGH: If you have a good cleaner (fluid) and a microfiber cloth - Not that of a huge problem any more ^^. Btw.: I am always using the UV/IR cut too (in front of the ProNDs). And as it´s kind of a protection - Not a problem any more at all. Just keep in mind to handle them well in field - And I also wouldn´t borrow them away ^^.

No video camera should respond to IR. The simple test for this is to take a remote control unit and point it into the lens, then start pressing buttons. If the IR LED is seen lit or flashing, then the camera must be responding to IR since all consumer remote controls use LEDs which emit ‘light’ at about 930nm, well beyond the red extreme of the visible range. Any camera which does show a response to IR will show odd colour behaviour under some lighting conditions, and will potentially have unstable black level, due to this light pollution.

Alan Roberts BBC/EBU.

My GH4 responds to IR from a remote control.

@arknox thanks for that test. I only did a brief outdoor test and noticed some but not this much. Its good to know. I'm debating the Formatt-Hitech Prostop or the Firecrest. The Firecrest claim to be the most neutral of any ND filter but they have yet to provide test images. The stats seem impressive though. They do offer some group purchase discounts. They had one over at reduser that is still running. I know you can stack those because they are not hot mirror. The prostop are a dye process similar to the Schneider irnds and the Firecrest are multicoated layering (and pricey). You should be able put that Skier 1.2 hot mirror out it front of your regular NDs without problems. That should probably do the trick.

I was filming the Playa Del Rey beach in Los Angeles with heavy variable ND on the GH4 in 24p and got significant IR pollution which gave the whole scene a brown-gold color cast. The golden waves coming in were artful, but not what I wanted. Here's the link on vimeo:

A lot of the Blackmagic people are suggesting the Hoya IR/UV cut filter. The best IR cut effect usually comes from the one that matches the sensor best. Has anyone found something they like on the GH4?

Hoya ProND filters seem to be the best value I've come across. Very good color reproduction on the GH4, LX100 and BMD cameras and not very expensive like some others. No noticeable color tint and blacks seem very consistent for a given filter strength.

When using an IR cut filter, is it better to have it in front or behind a Variable ND? Or does it matter?

how many stops an IR filter cut's?is it camera model dependable?

Ps i just tried a hoya R72 on lx100 and outdoors daylight have to use 800iso and 1/3-1/8 sec at f/2 for normal exposure..and that's without an nd!!