What Contax version exactly?
sorry, my bad! I was referring to contax/yashica mount
@JBraddock thanks for your reply! do you remember how long ago you got that answer? and apart from that: how does the EF solution work for you? any problems, focus to infinity for instance?
regards
@htf, when I asked a couple of months ago, he was considering it; however, two weeks ago he told me that the priorities are now different.
The EF version works great; there is no play or rattle on the lens turbo side; however, adapter ring that I use jiggles a bit. I've ordered a leitax adapter and am waiting for it.
The infinity focus is a bit off, meaning that you have to dial a bit back to focus on infinity; however, the fix is easy. See the previous page as to how to fix it.
Does anyone know of a cheap version for the BMPCC being planned? With its 0.58x factor glass?
It is possibility, but I do not know any exact date.
@Azo Thanks for posting your results. Mine were less scientific and I only own a Metabones Nikon to M43 speed booster.
In your test the RJ does look good. Were they all shot with your Nikkor G 35mm f1.4 at F1.4?
Like in your samples, I shot the same chart (although only 1 chart filling the frame) and found the MetaBones Speedbooster introduced some chromatic aberration (the rainbow colors) in the area of the chart's trumpets & patches, just where resolution falls apart.
Any idea why this happens? Seems to be inherent in only the focal reduction shots. I saw it happened with all 3 you own and like my own test, without the SB, the chromatic aberration on the chart was gone.
I also own older Nikkor AIS glass and have found in theatrical stage situations (lots of backlight and dark backgrounds) they tend to flare wide open, but, it mostly goes away 1 stop in form wide open. Sometimes in only a half stop in.
Is that the problem you saw? The G lenses are better (since they're newer)?
I shot everything on the Samyang 35mm 1.4 because it is a really sharp lens across the whole frame. In terms of chromatic aberration yes all of the speed boosters seem to exhibit this problem.
The newer Nikon 85mm 1.8G, 24-70, 70-200 VRII etc all have the newer coatings and help reduce flare etc. The Samyang 35mm 1.4 is super sharp but does not have the same coatings so when you shoot with this lens with a high key backdrop etc you will see a loss in contrast. The newer Nikons and Art Series Sigma lenses perform extremely well with very little loss in contrast.
I like Nikon G series lenses but I am migrating towards the Sigma Art Series lenses. The only downfall about the Sigmas is that they are not weather sealed but other than that the build image/quality is superb. To answer your question IMO the newest modern lenses be it from Nikon/Sigma/Tamron/Panasonic etc have better optics then the older Nikon lenses.
There was another member on Personal View that said that the newer Panasonic lenses are superior (optically) to the older Nikon lenses. At that time I did not believe him, part of this was because I love the build quality of the older lenses and did not shoot any charts or high key backdrops etc. I only shot real world subjects so did not notice a difference, however when I shot the charts and high key backdrops I then realized what he was talking about.
That being said the older lenses are still very good but optically I concede that they are not as good as the newer lenses from pretty much all the manufacturers. To play devils advocate their are those who will say that sharpness and contrast is not everything and sometimes you want that soft flattering look, well for me I want the lens as sharp and contrasty as possible and would prefer to add softness etc etc in post if I choose to do so.
So moving forward for me it will be Sigma Art Series 18-35 F/1.8, 24-105 F/4, 35mm F/1.4, 50mm F/1.4 hopefully they will release the 85mm and 70-200 Art series to complete my lens kit. The Tamron 24-70 and 70-200 VC is excellent optically, but the build quality is not up to par in comparison with the Sigma Art Series lenses.
Attached is a test picture in my studio with the Sigma 18-35 1.8 @1.8, I am purposely pointing the camera at the hair light (10:00 upper left) there is basically no loss of contrast with this lens. This lens is superb, sharp images and excellent build. Anyway this is basically what I am talking about so hopefully you can get an idea from the attached picture.
@Azo thanks for the tips!
Just received my RJ Speed Booster EF to m4/3 and I am very happy with the results! A non scientific test (very lame to be true) with some lenses in my desk office with terrible lighting and awful conditions. But I did get the results & answers I was looking for. First thing I noticed was that the Samyang 35mm Cine version was much better wide open. Yeah!!!
GH2 Settings - Driftwood's Moon T7 24p @140Mbps
Lenses Samyang 35mm T/1.5 VDSLR Canon EF 100mm f/2 Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 50mm f/2.8
PNG Capture Frames in Full HD 1080p with 2 crop frames at 200% of center & edge.
Thanks Vitaliy for the offer! Check photos on Lightroom to compare the differences. Hope it helps! Enjoy . . .
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/633pa85888mbrnp/AABz5v8zIxN9B6vDsRcR4lEIa
I have a few quick questions that no one has seemed to ask before:
What is the weight of the new nikon to m43 version?
The one with the tripod foot?
Is the tripod foot arca compatible like the metabones?
What is the weight of the new nikon to m43 version?
Is it really important? :-) As your lens will weight more.
Is the tripod foot arca compatible like the metabones?
Yep.
@Vitaliy_Kiselev I know that the lens weighs more. I want to know the weight of everything in my rig so I can manage my weight distribution.
I want to know the weight of everything in my rig so I can manage my weight distribution.
What exactly is "weight distribution"? You want to know balance weight or what?
I never heard about rig that is remade for each different lens :-)
I'm finally getting around to test the RJ I received. So far I'm pretty happy with the results although using the Sigma 10-22 outside brings up the blue dot in most shots unless wise open where the blue dot disappears but casts a barely noticeable blue tinge over the image.
My RJ has a little bit of play between it and the GH3 and also between the nikon lenses. Doesn't effect performance but it's there. Mine didn't come with the tripod foot. Is it available to buy separately?
Tests with photos to come soon.
Does anyone know of a cheap version for the BMPCC being planned? With its 0.58x factor glass?
It is possibility, but I do not know any exact date.
A reasonably priced (passive) EF->BMPCC adapter would be a huge thing! YES PLEASE! Also, the BMPCC is not such a niche product anymore, a LOT of people bought the camera during the summer sale and now can't justify spending more on a focal reducer (the metabones one) than they did on their new camera :) The problem is, the demand is there NOW, hard to say if it will still be there in 6+ months (or however long the design & production of such an adapter usually takes).
Can someone point me to where I can find instructions on adjusting the infinity focus on the RJ? Mine's quite a way out.
@JBraddock, Thanks. I'll give it a try.
I would be disappointed if mine came without that tripod foot.
Mine didn't come with the tripod foot. Is it available to buy separately?
If it is Nikon G adapter it must have with tripod mount.
@Vitaliy_Kiselev, I received mine a few months ago and it doesn't have a tripod foot. It is the Nikon G.
Can I buy it separately?
I'm having trouble adjusting the infinity focus, I can focus to infinity but its not at the end of the focus throw where infinity is marked on the lens. It's a little bit before the infinity mark and if I keep turning the focus ring all the way to infinity the whole image then goes out of focus. I've tried adjusting the RJ adapter and used its full range of adjustment but cant get it to work right.
Anyone had similar issues?
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!