@gameroja @CFreak - I actually prefer that the camera does not over-write my Custom (C1, C2, C3-1,2,3) settings unless I explicitly over-write the setting. It's very convenient (for me) to know that whenever I engage a Custom value, I'll be starting from a known settings and I can anticipate what exposure/setting changes I'll need to make when I decide to switch to a given Custom setting. For example, I use my C3 settings for my favorite quick outdoor video starting points (4k30p, 1080p60-100mbps and 1080p30-96fps, all with 180d shutter setting). It's handy that the Menu/Set button will default to the C3-1,2,3 selections.
I've run into an interesting problem that RED originally had and they tweaked the menus to address.
I went into FHD 100M 24P and enabled VFR (at 60FPS). I shot a bit. Then I changed to 4K 24P and shot a bit. The next day I went back to FHD and THOUGHT I was shooting 24P - but I was really shooting 60FPS MOS because VFR stays on across changes in Rec Quality.
I imagine this is working as intended but it sure is something that can - and probably will - bite people. As far as I can tell there isn't even a VFR status indicator. I think the real fix for this is to simplify the menus by putting all the FPS's together and getting rid of the VFR notion as it's really an implementation detail. But whatever they do, I hope they address this in some way in a firmware update. I doubt I'll be bitten again but I expect others will.
Just got the GH4, and have bin shooting a little with it in bright light. A strange thing I saw on a few shots was some artifacts, like a black ghosting behind a bright hat passing through the frame. It's only when the video is plaing. When paused it's not there. Has any one experienced this, it's not the video player since I see it in premier.
I had problems connecting Roede Stero Microphone to GH4. The levels were extreamly low. The mic worked very well on my GH2. I have now tested different homebiult converter cabels between TRS and TRRS plug. My finding is that the GH4 is using left channel to the tip, right to ring 1 and ground connected to ring 2. I left the sleve open. The levels are still lower than the levels from the internal mics but much higher than before. I have not tested the sund issue yet.
I'm not sure if this has been reported yet but I've noticed that the image that appears on the LCD is slightly flatter than the image on the EVF. Not a huge problem but somewhat annoying.
@brant_moore: That´s more or less based on the technology - LCD has way less contrast (and through the backlight the image always seems flatter / the dark areas always are more "geyish"). Just compare the image on a good external screen, to see which one is more accurate (the EVF or the LCD). But in general I think that you can trust more the LCD screen than the EVF (as most OLED screens I saw til now were not the most accurate ones ^^).
@tscheckoff Thanks for the info, that's good to know! I never noticed this on my gh2. Definitely will do a comparison though.
I had a problem getting the SD card door to shut flush — it wanted to close cockeyed — and it now has a small gap near the back. Anyone else have this issue?
Also had the camera recently lock up while shooting raw photographs at an event. I'm using the latest SANDISK 280mbs.
@brant_moore I've also noticed that. I'm basically choosing the settings I know and trust and not relying on the screen for color.
Just got my GH4 so am in process of checking it out.
First issues that are mostly post and little stuff.
Good things.
So far both my 64gb sandisk cards (95/MB/s and 80MB/s ) seem to record 4k although I haven't done a torture test or long capture beyond a few minutes.
Video looks pretty good, but I haven't done anything of to show off yet. Still in first few hours of going through menu's .
Got lots of tests to do. Same size of GH3 so I can put this bad boy up in the air on my multirotor.
I've encountered an intermittent problem the last few days. Thick horizontal bands show up in the captured images and video. During lcd/ monitor preview, these bands (about 4-5 total at any one time) slowly move upwards - not unlike the scan lines that appear when recording a computer screen that's not in sync with the system frequency.
This problem worsens as shutter speed is faster. At low shutter speeds during video recording it is not noticeable. Yesterday this issue sprung up, even after a power down. Then about an hour later it was back to normal. Same thing happened today while taking photos, then after about 30 minutes back to normal. Nothing in the settings changes anything.
Any ideas on what could be happening? It's like there's a loose connection somewhere screwing things up. I will probably send it to Panny for repair I just wish I could duplicate this problem on demand.
Hmmm - today there were HID lamps, so definitely could be. Attached is an example. Now that I think of it, both episodes occurred indoors. Just bizarre that I encountered the same problem in 2 different states actually, after never experiencing this since I owned GH3/4
@CFreak yes USA
I thought synchro scan was for video??? The banding I experienced was much more obvious at faster shutter speeds 1/1000+
At slow video shutter speed I did not experience the same problem. Intelligent auto mode also did not show the banding because it would select a slow shutter by default.
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