Video is tagged private.

It would be interesting to know if these luminance settings are applied before or after the codec. I would assume that it is before the 4.2.0 8 bit conversion from the sensor data. If this is the case shooting 16-235 would maintain more bits per luma value of the GH4's limited 100mbps codec. This setting could be very beneficial keep more information in the middle of the range we will ultimately be using for output.

My point being that there is no reason to allocate data rate to values between 0-16 when they will just be thrown out in the final output. Why not save that portion of the bit rate for where it is needed most?

After watching some of James Millers tests with cine v (vimeo.com/95589923), I'm starting to think there may be some value in shooting a much more baked in image with this cam.

Curious on every ones thoughts here.

Cheers, Pete

what would the best setup be for nature videos where you need sharpness and nice clear contrasty footage, i will mainly after speaking to a friend of mine be using 1080p 200mb/s 60fps mode and 4k 30fps modes.

my setup will be with a lumix 20mm f1/7 and a swarovski scope fitted ( which is amazingly sharp ) tbh i get a bit confused with all the settings and was reading that cine d ungraded and setting the shutter angle to 180d would be good but not sure why.

thanks

@mrbill Yep, I agree. The camera is what it is. It's not a Red Epic. It's not a BMPCC. It's a Lumix GH4 and the "way" it shoots is wonderful. Would love to see some of your footage with that glass.

heres a quick video i did last night, was overcast, i had shutter angle to 180 and cine d and down vonverted 4k to 1080p with nothing but a bit of contrast added.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hammyuk/14046194588/

@5thwall That is good info - thanks. +1 in the highlights, or shadows? I'm, assuming Shadows, correct? and "-" in the highlights?

@5thwall Hey thanks for passing on what you've learned. Good info about the Master Pedestal intention of Panasonic.

Hey everyone,

so I've had the GH4 for about a week now, and after some extensive personal testing, I've come up with my own "favourite/best" settings. I think these will work extremely well for many people. Feel free to try them out and tell me what you think (:

I call this the RaiChu "Filmic" Profile.

My goal was to achieve a flat, flexible profile that is excellent for grading in post (I was previously shooting RAW with the 5D), by preserving as much dynamic range I could without compromising the natural look of the image. At the same time, I tried to balance this with maximizing the lowlight capabilities by introducing little to no "ugly" noise.

Overall, in my opinion this creates a more "organic, filmic" image to my eyes. ISO 3200 looks mighty clean with these settings, and ISO 6400 is still usable depending on your standards, access to noise reduction software (not always necessary), and final delivery format.

So here are the settings:

CINE D: Everything at -5, except Hue at +2

I want maximum flexibility in post, which included the ability to add contrast and sharpen. So naturally everything is turned down. NR turns the noise from a fine filmic grain (which I like) into ugly mush, so turn that off! The +2 Hue is simply personal preference.

SHADOWS/HIGHLIGHTS: Left at +0/-0 or sometimes +0/-2 (read below)

Messing with the curve gives the image a nasty HDR look to it, and made me want to vomit at +5/-5. It brought in grey, muddy highlights and introduced some ugly noise. I like to keep it untouched, unless there is a special situation where there is ONE or TWO specific blown out spots in the image where you might want to salvage some detail. For these special cases, I dial the highlights down to -2, or -3 at most.

PEDESTAL: Boosted to +15

I find that the pedestal manages to bring up the shadows nicely without creating the nasty HDR look of the shadows/highlights, and also preserves the filmic grain noise in the blacks.

LUMINANCE LEVEL: Set to 16-235

Between the three, this settings seems to give the flattest profile in terms of contrast. I like leaving a little headroom in the highlights, and bringing up the shadows without introducing noise.

i.Resolution: Set to STANDARD or sometimes turned OFF

While I do not like the in-camera sharpening in the picture profile, the i.resolution seems to give a nice "detailing" look, rather than the "sharp" look. This is especially nice in wide, distant shots where there might be a sign with letters far off, clarifying it a bit. But in other normal situations, there is not much of a difference if you turn it OFF.

i.Dynamic: Turned OFF

While it does appear to give a small increase in latitude, turning it on makes the noise turn into an atrociously ugly, fuzzy mush that screams "cheap camcorder video", and is extremely unpleasant. I would much rather do without that marginal increase for the finer grain.

SHUTTER SPEED: Set to 1/50 or sometimes 1/40 (in rare cases, 1/30, but read below)

As with nearly all hybrid cameras, 1/50 is as close to the "filmic" 1/48 shutter speed (180 degree shutter angle) we are going to get on the GH4. However, when a little extra light is needed, I have found 1/40 to not really be noticeably smeary. As a result, I use this liberally. Sometimes it actually helps ease up the strobing/picketing effect when panning or crab dollying is done quickly. In static tripod shots where there is little motion, and therefore even harder to tell, 1/30 is actually acceptable as well. But only in that specific case! And don't even bother trying to stabilize 1/30 in post with software, it will come out looking like crap.

I have tested this "profile" in a variety of environments, including lowlight, highlight, day time, night time, interior artificial light, natural exterior light, etc.

Three lenses were used: Sigma 18-35mm/f1.8, Tokina 11-16mm/f2.8, and a vintage Nikon pre-AI 50mm/f1.4. All three were mounted on a Metabones BMCC Edition Nikon G to M4/3 Speed Booster. Yes the BMCC version works, however it will damage the camera if you use the physical shutter (so I leave it off and turn on the electronic shutter). I think it is worth it though, as you have a constant f1.1 zoom with the Sigma, a constant f1.8 ultra-wide angle, and an f0.9 portrait lens. Pretty darn sweet :D

So far I have found these to be the best settings, but that may only be for me. I'm curious to see what other people are coming up with.

With more feedback and testing, I will update this profile. Please let me know what you think!

Thanks everyone, and have fun! (:

-Wes

@5thwall Currently creating some more rigid test footage. This weekend I will have something posted!

Put this together utilizing down sampled 4K, 1080 24p, 1080 60p slowed to 40%, many profiles, grading techniques, detailed scenes, one's that demand more dynamic range etc. 75% GH4 and 25% GH3 footage. Wanted to see how well the two cameras footage would blend in a single graded edit.

@miza For starters I'd recommend a faster lens. F3.5 is really slow for indoors much less a night shot. Plus, you can shoot at night BUT there's got to be some decent light points or sources. Street lights, neon, automobile lights, landscape lighting etc. Not sure how much "in lens" stabilization would be necessary for a good quad copter. Stabilization with the GH4 makes handheld shots smoother. Handheld and quad motion are two different animals unless your fighting vibration and no lens can stabilize or remove that.

Wish I could be of more help but I think it's safe to say this is not a straight forward ask and answer question. There are too many unknown variables here to provide a simple answer for you IMHO.

Post your vid and settings after you shoot. I'd like to see and learn from your results.

@raichu I agree w/ everything you posted about color settings. I'm also looking for a flatter image and something more filmic. Shot our first commercial w/ GH4 this past weekend with all the same settings except set hue to +3, which definitely captured more of an honest green and yellow in the forest; luminance was at 0-255 (not sure about 16-235 since I haven't had a chance to compare it). I didn't know about the i.Dynamic difference (we shot at standard)... have you tested i.Dynamic in heavy daytime light and a lower ISO?