Personal View site logo
Metabones lens speed booster adapter, focal reducer
  • 873 Replies sorted by
  • @act Usually I would be inclined to agree with you - that anything is possible (or at least that frame of mind can inspire innovation and help overcome daunting challenges). An M4/3 to M4/3 SpeedBooster may not be 'impossible', but as Brian pointed out (and he is the optical engineer for the SpeedBooster): it's not really technically feasible without being prohibitively ineffective. I'm inclined to take his word for it, as the Metabones SpeedBooster has set the bar for quality focal reducers.

    To answer your other point - have you ever used an FD to EOS or Minolta to EOS adapter with corrective elements? In my experience they absolutely destroy the image sharpness, introduce other visual artifacts, reduce light transmission and tele-extend focal length (which, I believe, are the points Brian was getting at when he said 'you would have to sacrifice so much image quality that the device would effectively be useless').

    And to be fair, focal reducers have been around for AGES in cinema for PL mount and in astral photography for camera-telescope adapters. They just hadn't been introduced for public consumption until recently.

    Don't get me wrong, I love to dream, but unfortunately some dreams are just for the pillow.

  • @JuMo" focal reducers have been around for AGES in cinema for PL mount" -can you give an example? I worked with PL lenses for 16 years and only ever saw 1.4x and 2x focal extenders, behind the lens anamorphic adapters (a la "Mesmerizer effect") and in front of the lens "Asperhon" wide angle adapters. I.e: no behind the lens focal reducers in PL mount.

  • @CFreak Sure, for example: the Hawk and/or Vantage 0.7x focal reducer (which was originally designed for the Hawk 150-450mm/T2.8 around 12 years ago). It's no surprise you haven't come across one, they aren't common. They cost an arm and a leg and are only usable on some telephoto and periscope lenses, but there you have it. I guess 'AGES' is a subjective term, but 2002 is a long time ago for a quickly evolving industry. Of course there are other reducers out there for c-mount, etc that have been around longer (for astral stuff), and there MAY be even older cinema focal reducers out there, now buried, but the Hawk is relatively easy to look up.

  • Hi all, I have the speedbooster + sigma 18-35 + gh3 combo! I have one question about the aperture. The f is for the 1.8 aperture, ok, but for the next how can we read it? Can someone give me the equivalent aperture for 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 on the SB please? Could it be f=f1.8, 1=f2.8, 2=f4, 3=f5.6, 4=f8, 5=f11, 6=f16, 7=... ?? Thanks! ;)

  • @JuMo: Yes, I never worked with Hawk lenses. That explains it. The last Anamorphic movie I worked on was in 2000. In my Camera Assistant career I worked with Panavision anamorphics (C, E and Primo series) and Arri's Arriscope series. No Hawks. Here's the link: http://www.vantagefilm.com/en/news/news_2002-08_01.shtml Although I doubt that product was intended for use on anamorphics, I see they also have spherical lenses. For some reason I associate Hawk with anamorphic. Must have been all the advertising. Must be hard for a German lens company to get noticed when up against Zeiss, Leica, Schneider all from the same country.

  • @CFreak Yeah, I think you're right - Hawk's best way to stand out was with their anamorphic lenses, so a lot of people associate them with that, and they are relatively popular in that regard. Their spherical lenses, on the other hand, sort of fell to the way side, even though they are quality optics - there is just too much saturation in that market at lower price points with comparable IQ for them to truly compete. I think the reducer was an attempt to vitalize that product line, or at least draw some attention to it. Unfortunately, it flew under the radar for most.

    @Baramed I don't have that lens or the Nikon SpeedBooster, but I think you just add a stop to each step. On the Sigma 18-35: 1=f1.8 is now f1.2 on your lens, 2=f2.8 becomes f2, 3=f4 becomes f2.8 and so on. Make sense? Maybe someone with this combo can verify this as I'm assuming the SB stops are standardized, and we all know assumption is the mother of all f-ups.

  • What would truly be amazing (perhaps someone already addressed it in the last 27 pages), is if the speedbooster could be some sort of Adapt-all mount. One side would be m43, the other side could have snap on adapters to make it the appropriate size for FD, Nikon, EOS, etc. That way the expensive part of the adapter (the glass) would only need to be purchased ONCE.

    I'm sitting here thinking "man, I wish I could get an Nikon to FD mount ring, then I could just get the FD speedbooster and be good to go". But as already pointed out, no such adapter exists that we know of. So multiple Speedboosters would be necessary, and that's just way out of my budget.

  • @dishe I agree. I would say though, that the tolerances of such adapters is quite fine, so I wouldn't expect it to be cheap. For instance, I've tried an FD to M42 mount on my MFT to FD SpeedBooster and it was really sloppy. I've not doubt that Metabones can't do it, but I think they're doing the right thing for now.

  • @JuMo Thanks for your answer! ;) Someone else know the behaviour of the Speedbooster aperture ring? "F" on the speedbooster is f1.8 on the Sigma 18-35 lens, so "1" on the speedbooster is...?? Thank you. ;)

    speedbooster_NF_M43.jpg
    800 x 800 - 161K
  • Anyone know if you can use OCT-18 Lomo lenses with any of the Speedboosters that will work with M43? I'd like to try my Lomos on the Pocket Cinema and use a Speedbooster to minimize crop factor and of course get the extra stop of light.

  • Small, handheld clip with GH3 with Minolta Rokkor PG 58mm/f1.2 + Metabones Speed Boster which makes it 41mm/f0.85. Clip was deshaken but without cropping.

  • @Baramed
    You can easily check it yourself:

    • mount your camera & lens & MBSB on the tripod in front of the white wall
    • the wall should just have a stable brightness (constant, unchangeble lighting)
    • run the camera in A mode, just make sure that it displays the exposure
    • change the apperture one by one step on your booster and note the exposures behaviour

    If the step 1 to step 2 on your Speed Booster aperture ring changes the exposure value from (just for example) 1/1000s to 1/500s or from 1/320s to 1/160s you've got a perfect step of one EV.

    I use my Nikon G lenses on the µFT cameras all the time that way.

  • I'm sure someone's asked about this, or suggested this, but... well, I'm wondering if the ability to use Nikon lenses on MFT cameras gives us a huge price break in the long run. Buying MFT lenses can be expensive... but there are a lot of Nikon lenses out there being sold through Ebay and used-equipment sources. Has anyone 'run the numbers" on the choice of buying MFT lenses in the future, or buying a Speed Booster and using quality Nikon lenses from here on in?

  • @Brian_Siano If you want IS, keep an MFT lens around, but you are totally right in terms of smarter investment. Not to say that MFT is going to die any time soon (let's hope not), but just as you said: quick comparison of current prices of new glass VS legacy glass = no brainer for those on a budget.

  • @JuMo I've been looking at the SLR Magic 12mm lens, which is pretty wonderful, and it's a mechanical focus so it'll work well with my follow-focus rig. That's something legacy lenses offer-- mechanical focus, and not that ersatz manual system on motorized MFT lenses.

    But the SLR Magic lens is what, six hundred dollars? I figure, if the Metabones is four hundred, and if a wide manual-focus lens from Nikon (or Canon or Zeiss) is available for under two...

  • @Brian_Siano

    I can't imagine you can get something exceptable under $200 that's a wide. Most of those old wides that are cheap suffer from many problems including being slow but I'm not sure what your needs are. I just know for paid work there's nothing I trust there.

  • For a wide on my FD set I like the 20mm f2.8 @ f4 (SB brightness equiv to f2.8) to reduce the slight bloom - or occasionally f5.6 for even a little sharper image. 20mm is the equivalent FOV of a 14mm, which might not be wide enough for everyone on the BMPCC, but I've been enjoying it. I haven't tried the FD 17mm f4 yet, but that would give you a 12mm equivalent FOV, which, at the wide end, those extra 2mm make a difference.

    Speed Booster aside, the c-mount 10mm f1.6 Kern covers the sensor well and is rectilinear. It's tiny, like a lot of c-mounts it looks kind of comical, but it's actually quite a nice little lens (if you find a good copy).

  • Here's a still from my feature film currently shooting in Trinidad. This was shot with the BMPCC, with a Metabones SpeedBooster and the Rokinon 85mm (Nikon mount) with Panasonic LA7200 anamorphic adapter with a diopter. This still is ungraded, unsharpened, direct from camera then unsqueezed.

    victor watches.jpg
    2554 x 1080 - 207K
  • @ahbleza That shot just kills! I want to see the film based on this still alone!

  • @matt_gh2 Thanks mate! I'll toss in a couple more stills for fun, shot on the same night (Monday.)

    the portal bathroom reel k.jpg
    2554 x 1080 - 294K
    portal_j_2013-12-17_0104_C0008_001271.jpg
    2554 x 1080 - 335K
  • @Brian_Siano if your question was meant as the best value for your money, you're ceirtanly on safer side with good Nikkor glass. But you pay about at least double there than for other good vintage lenses. But if you sell Nikkors some day, you will have your $ any time back. For all other lenses: not as sure. You must know.

    Nikkors fit not only on Metabones Speed Booster, but on so many other cameras and all Nikon cameras until today (even on Canon cameras)

  • @tetakpatak Thanks a lot for your answer, i ran some tests, it appear that there is more than 1 stop between the first step and the second one on the speedbooster, I will check it again.

  • @Baramed the original Nikon F/G version which was printed F-through-8 on the aperture ring had a non-linear behavior. The newer version, printed F-through-7 is almost perfectly linear, so each step should correspond to one stop.

  • @aljimenez ... omg. this speedbooster would be awesome for my old minoltas ... any idea on the official release?

  • It was released and is sold out at the moment – I'm waiting too…