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Driftwood Cluster X series 3:│moon T7│ЅріzZ T6│Nebula T7│Drewnet T9│
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  • opps I didn't see the other topic, The Beach.

  • @pchristoph congrats! great work. if you can give us some info, most appreciated. Thanks for sharing.

  • Hey guys;

    Here's another music video I worked on... once again using the DREWnet T9 hack. Unfortunately for this one I bunged one of the settings for 60p (for some reason it didn't come out 60p at all, and it was very low bitrate) and so the fight footage is a tad... yuck, quality wise. Still, this is a fun video... and if you like your metal you'll like this!

  • @pchristoph that looks amazing!!really like the grading..

  • Make sure you put it in the DCIM folder with the other pictures

  • @cbm3222 i tried that way before but it didnt work but will try again

  • @studio2010 I have one for 2.35:1 Just put the file on your card and go to the picture viewer on the gh2. Just make sure you don't have any files with the same name.

    P1000062.JPG
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  • - with the wonderful GH2. Shot using moon T7. Thanks @driftwood !

  • Another short comedy, shot with T7 thank you guys the best camera community!

    Still needs a lot of editing and there are huge scenes missing but great patch all together

  • cjdincer i am not sure but i figure its just a simple as matching the original format and codec that the camera reads but iam not a expert in that field

  • Generally speaking, you want to shoot based on your post pipeline, not the other way around. They do make their profiles with '0' for contrast, I have read that. It would also make sense for them to do '0' for saturation. Sharpness and noise-reduction aren't affected by Film Convert.

  • @rsquires I'm asking myself the same questions, if the filmconvert profiles are based on a 0 0 0 0 shooting for each colour effect. I usually shoot with the smooth profile and every thing at -2 to gain a bit of DR but I don't know if the filmconvert profiles still give a correct realistic effect. I also posted another question to this forum -but no answers-, if there could be any grading differeces between the hacked Gh2 and the non hacked camera. Therefore filmconvert should consider developing other profiles for the most popular hacks.

  • @studio2010 hmm I don't even know if it is doable or Has anybody done such a thing?

  • hey iam look for an image or footage with 2.31:1 aspect ratio a that i can put on my sd card that my gh2 will play back or display so that i can mark my boarders in advance

  • @Gardner That's kind of what I was getting at. Even though you had little light it might have been nice to shoot stuff in silhouette or something. It's taken me long enough but I am now more of the opinion that great cinematography is about what you don't show ( light etc ) than what you do. For years I wanted a very realistic, available light look, whereas now I'd go the other way and stylise. It's just more unique and interesting and it sets you apart.

  • @tihon It isn't a one click solution I'll grant you but you do get where you want to go much faster than other software I have used. So assuming you have downloaded the GH2 settings pack from their website read on.

    I set it to GH2 Cinema for starters. However ( and I have asked the developers this but they still haven't got back to me) I am not sure how they have arrived at their settings as Cinema comes out very washed out and over exposed looking. I shoot cinema at -2,-2,0,-2 most of the time, but I am assuming they tested their footage using a default 0,0,0,0 setting. It would make sense otherwise they would have to do a whole load of different ones. Perhaps it's worth shooting stuff specifically at 0,0,0,0 on each of the GH2 settings, then applying the Film Convert film styles to see what it looks like, and which you prefer.

    I then adjusted exposure to compensate for the over brightness of the default setting, also pulling the curve back to about 75%. I also added some saturation I think, but the biggest change was warming the mid tones and highlights as I felt they were still a bit greenish. This is the beauty of Film Convert. It adds the levels adjustment, basic colour correction tools and Saturation even. In After Effects which has no scopes to speak of ( not counting Synthetic aperture) this is invaluable to have.

    I was also not doing this with scopes etc, just by eye and from the still I grabbed back of the web converted into a movie.

    It is a great place to start however and I think really takes GH2 footage to another level.

    best

    Richard

  • rsquires, thanks. Did you set gh2 standart camera profile in Film converter? Did you only apply Fuji 8543 VD profile without any others adjustments in Film converter? Thanks

  • Awesome work @Gardner . I dig it!

  • @rsquires Thanks for the kind words and as far as lighting goes I only had three LEDs so I just tried to light the scene as best I could.

  • @Gardner really enjoyed that. Very nicely put together indeed. Watching it I have one suggestion for next time and this isn't a criticism at all. If the instruments had been lit with one light to create some nice shadows and modelling or perhaps two with a fill of a different colour I think it would really take the production level up. One thing I have noticed in my own stuff and that is the importance of light or the lack of it. It just seems so obvious when you think about it but, shadow, silhouette and other lighting techniques really make a production. Perhaps this wasn't the feel you were going for I know and as I said at the start this is really well put together, but perhaps for next time.

    Very nice work

  • @tihon Thought I recognized that frame. When I posted that I also spoke about a yellow jaundice look, which I now realize was a bright yellow jersey reflecting into some of the guys faces.

    But to the grey look. I started to do some watching of skin tones on telly in drama and movies and noticed that it's pretty normal for that to happen. Especially if the subject isn't lit artificially.

    This year I purchased Film Convert and I have to say it is really good with skin tones in particular and I'll try and post some examples. It really elevates the image to another level. It's not even subtle the change, but it feels far more naturalistic than I ever had with Magic Bullet Looks for instance.

    film convert.jpg
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  • Hi, I got one simple and maybe stupid question. Does moon T7 change, in any way, the color look if compared to a non hacked camera? Because now I'm trying out Filmconvert and would like to know if the color profiles (for smooth, natural etc.) for the gh2 still work right for a hacked camera giving the correct look and film simulation to final footage. I use Gh2 and gh3. Giving the right profile to each and choosing the same film simulated output should give almost the same result. I haven't tested yet .

  • Hi! Thanks for the great patches! I have a question! I attached an image (http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/65336#Comment_65336) and you can see that the shadows on skin are so desaturated and bad looking... I have the same problem with my shots. I usually use smooth with all -2. I find that i have this issue even if i shoot with wb preset (sun , cloudy...) Thanks for the help

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  • @Driftwood

    Hello.

    I consider loading "moon" T7 1GOP patch, but I need 30fps ability.

    Previously I have preferred 80% mode, but I used Intravenus- patch and recording time was only about 7seconds.

    Does "moon" T7 1GOP patch have working 80% mode, or is HBR 30fps as good as 80% mode in general? I've had always some doubts about HBR modes...

    btw. What do you think about Intravenus II (with 444)? I liked "444" style color rendition a lot.

    EDIT : Loaded up "moon" T7. 80% mode works only for about 7sec. :/ Do you have any patch suggestions for better rec times for 80% mode? I have 45MB/s SanDisk Extreme Pro cards. Does newer 95MB/s SD cards handle 80% mode better?

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