@lmackreath

I've been using the SanDisk Extreme (not Pro) 128GB 45MB/s card with Moon 7 no problems. It even spans just fine.

Has anyone tried the new sandisk extreme 80MB cards

Is the difference in quality of 720 between Drewnet T9 and Moon T7 worth choosing Drewnet over Moon? Any opinions?

@brant_moore,I also think so - ( Is the difference in quality of 720 between Drewnet T9 and Moon T7 worth choosing Drewnet over Moon? Any opinions? )

@Aashay Thank you for the reply.

I ask because I use 24H for work, and 720SH for personal action sports videos that need to be 60p. So having the best of both worlds at the same time is what I am looking for. I do not want to re-flash the camera each time I switch between personal shooting and work shooting.

I guess what I really need is to learn what to look for when comparing two different settings.

@brant_moore Personally, I would advice you not to get caught up in these patches way more than what is needed. If you can't really tell the difference between settings then choose the one that's reliable and looks good to you overall with your lenses. These patches have been liked by people like Sir Coppola himself (who are wayyyyyyy better judge of the quality of the patches/picture than you and me, imho) Driftwood patches ARE quality! No matter what you pick. Now, for 60p some people say shooting intra (Moon) will be more useful. If you have tons of space to spare, go for it. Others (Like Drewnet who is incredible) says long gop patches (Drewnet) can render extremely amazing results as well. Do a little slow-mo test in a well lit environment and compare. We can talk here all day long about different patches but until you do the drill and you feel which patch is right for you, don't listen to anyone else.

@smsjr @driftwood I'm also getting the first frame garbled with Moon T7c setting. Sandisk Extreme 30MB/s 16gig.

@smsjr @x_worpig_x I haven't counted on the first frames of a recording for a long time. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't, and that's true of a lot of settings.

@brant_moore The differences are often subtle and stability is one of the biggest concerns.

But in regards to the differences, here are things you can use to differentiate. Remember, the only way to reliably test is to do one setting right after the other - pay attention to changing lighting conditions (sunsets, sunrises and moving clouds are not your friends) or scene content.

Test 1: Static Detail Stress Test

• Shoot an indoor deep DOF fine-pattern on a tripod (the canvas pattern in a colorful painting sharply focused is a good example) at an ISO setting that approximates what a real-world "high ISO" would be for you. Make sure to get a proper exposure.
• Then examine it zoomed in to get a sense for it. I suggest comparing the top left and bottom right corners.
• As @Driftwood has mentioned before, if a setting is aggressive in using bitrate quickly (like IntraVenus 1) then the bottom right corner will be less detailed than the top left.
• You want to keep an eye out for macro-blocking and the "smooth vs preserve detail" slant of the setting in the noise pattern to pick what suits your taste.

Test 2: Handheld Detail Test

• Shoot a deep DOF handheld shot with a narrow angle shutter (as narrow as you can get away with while maintaining exposure). Subject is your choice but things with fine detail tend to be more demanding.
• Try exaggerating camera motion (both slow and quick pans and shakes) and shooting subjects in motion. Higher GOP settings may sometimes suffer during scenes that combine high-detail with high-motion by running out of bitrate between I-frames at the end of a GOP sequence.
• You are looking for detail, sharpness and macro-blocking in this test - zoom in again.

Test 3 : Personal Taste Test

• Shoot using settings similar to what you would use on-site. Normally this means wider open and wider angle shutter than Test 2 and a more interesting subject than Test 1.
• Analyze the footage using the same techniques used above, in brief.
• Pay closer attention to any stylistic concerns you might have (like motion rendering, edge emphasis, etc.) first zoomed in and then at normal magnification.

When testing SH mode, keep in mind that no popular setting uses GOP1. So if you are looking at stills, don't just look at one frame - go through the whole length of the GOP sequence to look for variation between I, P and B frames.

As well as the first few frames being muddy, there is also for about half a second no audio. This is a limitation I found on both the GH1 and GH2. It's incredibly annoying if you just throw everything onto a timeline to output because you get a 1/2sec of silence between each clip. When I queried Panasonic about this they said it was to not record any on camera noise but that's just stupid. Audio should start when pic starts

@Brant-moore they do not make it too hard - if they want to shoot 720/60p, then DREWnet T9 - the best 720P worldwide. . . if they want to shoot 24p, then Moon T7. . . and all is well. DREWnet T9 720/60p is better than anything offered by other manufacturers staffers, even better than 1080p from Sony, Canon, etc.

I'm filming at the moment with everything DREWnet T9 720/60p

@Butt Totally right the DREWnet T9 is pretty gorgeous.

@dado023

On my very first test of Moon Trial 7, I had about 42 GB of various clips on the card when I tested spanning. It did glitch once with a write error, but then spanned 10 times without a hitch, ending up with over 80GB on the card.

Don't forget also chaps, a lot of the research from the last 2 years done on the GH2 in the encoder will mean a speedy transition to the GH3's AVCHD modes in the future hack. Which means a lot of the Cluster stuff should work on the GH3 - imagine that with the improved sensor.

UPDATE NEWS: Spizz T6 is still being fine tuned for HBR/FSH and 720p modes by myself, @towi and @bkmcwd - apologies for the delay