Thanks, Bubba... but... it's a LOT easier to slap 2 cameras together with a controller than it is to figure all this firmware and encoder patch work out. My hat is off in salute to Vitaliy, cbrandin, LPowell, Driftwood and the other patch workers who are real geniuses.

Flinchmonkey,

There is actually a wealth of information regarding using GH1 and GH2 for stereo - more so that any other DSLR. We've been operating in the same open, cooperative spirit as the hack itself (seems only proper). Most GH3D'ers hang out and share info at: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/categories/3d

As for the mirror rigs that I use, I've recently been lucky enough to consult on the development of a new rig (the Aquavideo AERO - see http://www.aquavideo.com/). This rig is ideal for DSLR projects. The all-up weight with GH2s is 15 lbs, which is light enough to shoulder mount or put on a small steadycam. Aquavideo will post more information for GH3D'ers soon.

A number of GH3D'ers have built their own mirror boxes - which is relatively straightforward.

The other critical piece of gear is the sync controller. I've used the most simple mechanical switch-based controller for over a year without any problems. The diagram for my dirt-simple controller can be found here in the 3D section. I do know that at least one company is building a microprocessor sync controller for GH1/2 that they intend to sell. It's a fancy piece of gear that can do time lapse stereo photography as well. I'll post the info on that when they let the cat out of the bag.

Thanks for helping me get my head out of the sand. What a fantastic 3-d collaboration thread everyone has going on at DVX. I'm going to give your sync controller design a try. Thanks for the great info and footage.

GH1/2 sync is better than the Canon, "release shutter to sync" trick. Canon cameras poll the remote port - so - the sync signal is subject to the polling of the two cameras. In the case of GH1's and 2's, each camera powers on at the same time. I've exhaustively tested two GH1s with MANUAL lenses using the power-up sync technique and found consistently less than .02 ms of offset at the beginning of each test run and seldom more than .1 ms after 5 min. My cameras are very close in serial number - which may help when it comes to drift over time. Your mileage may vary.

Here's a simple diagram here that shows a basic, mechanically switched sync "controller". This device DOES work well with GH1/2s and manual lenses, but, may not be the ideal solution. One of its biggest faults is that the manual switches may "bounce" when closed which can cause sync problems. It does work for me. Your milage may vary! Builder beware!

Usage is simple:

1) turn GH1/2s on (with controller power off)

2) switch controller power on

3) press "shutter release" - cameras will begin recording

4) at end of take, press "shutter release" to stop recording

5) power both cameras off using the GH1/2 power switches (not the controller power)