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Minolta Rokkor Survival guide
  • I thought you might be interested in a little guide I wrote.

  • 63 Replies sorted by
  • @fredfred27 Thanks for asking! Actually I ended up selling it :(

  • @sakattaq76 I have the Minolta MD Zoom 24-35mm F3.5. Sharpness and color as the 35-70 (which is a tack unsharp at the short end). It is close to parfocal. And the Zoom range is... short. Amazing Lens. I would love to get my hands on a 24-50 though...

  • @Flaaandeeers Have you figured out your problem?

  • @fredfred27 Thanks! I couldn't go on guessing for a name like that! :D

  • @jazzroy It was called a "Reversible Professional Spanner Wrench Lens Repair Tool Flat & Point Tips New" on the eBay page where I bought it.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reversible-Professional-Spanner-Wrench-Lens-Repair-Tool-Flat-Point-Tips-New-/160886274756?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257591bac4

  • @Flaaandeeers You might have lens separation in one of the doublets. This is where the glue between the lenses has failed. To test this, find a point light source. (A bare flashlight bulb is what I use.) Turn off all other lights, aim at the point light, open the aperture to 1.2 and set focus at it's minimum. Adjust exposure until you can see the detail. This is the before photo from an MC Rokkor 58mm 1.2 that I had to fix. It is very hard to see if there is lens separation from just inspecting the lens.

    58-1.2_225.jpg
    800 x 787 - 156K
  • Actually @aljimenez, I did not change focus when closing down the aperture ring, so I can confirm it's not a focus problem. f1.2 sample may be a bit overexposed, but in the original file I can see the sharp edges of the object in focus under the nasty glow. I'm still trying to figure out the issue...

  • Those photo samples you posted @Flaaandeeers seems that the 1.2 sample is not focused and like the camera moved. I am not sure what to conclude. The background has lots of light and the entire shot needs something on focus to judge... Al

  • My 58 @ 1.2 looks like urs at 2.8, something is def. wrong with urs. From 2.0 on the glow is gone, extremely sharp at 2.8

  • The lens does not have any visible fungus or haze, but yes, something is not right :(

  • @Flaaandeeers

    ooh that looks nasty @1.2 somethings not quite right there methinks.

  • Thanks @nomand and @soundgh2, but I think I must have a very shitty copy, because the problem in certain situations is truly terrible. Very sharp actually! Even at f1.2, but with a terrible glow around the borders that make it unusable below 2.8-4.-
    And the adapter seems to work great with my other MD/MC lenses.
    I've uploaded an example just to illustrate my problem.

    58.jpg
    1984 x 1134 - 212K
  • @Flaaandeeers

    The 58 's do vary from lens to lens I had one similar to that and my current early copy is sharp from 1.2

  • @Flaaandeeers Check your adapter. I improved mine with matte black model airplane paint.

    @sakattaq76 I don't know the 50-135mm from own experience. The 24-50 is another very nice lens, but a tad weaker than the exceptional 35-70.

  • I think Nomad has said good things about 24-50mm and 70-210.

    Btw, I've tested my 58mm 1.2 further and noticed that it's EXTREMELY glowy until 2.8.
    I guess that my copy is faulty, right?
    I will use it from 3.5 and over, and/or as a nice deco object in my desk. :(

  • I love my Minolta MD 35-70mm f/3.5 Macro. It has nice colors and incredible resolution for his age. I would like to match this lens with other series of the same family (wide-telephoto) having almost the same characteristics of the above lens. Will you recommend those lenses, like: Minolta MD Zoom 50-135mm F3.5 Minolta MD Zoom 24-35mm F3.5 What is your opinion? Do you have any experience on those lenses?

  • really helpfull info here guys, thanks

    @DrDave background wise, liked the third bokeh better

    @MirrorMan not boring at all, I love tests... the pressure of making something "arty" is off and so... curti boe desses enquadramentos tens ai um belo set. tutti bueno
    all good

  • some recent boring test sh*t using a Rokkor MD 28mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.7, 135mm f/2.8 and 3 shots with the SLR Magic 12mm, which I'd say blends well with the Minoltas. A few shots have a greenish look because of the Marumi ND filters I used. I'm not sure if the tint is from the filter or the camera (auto) WB. I need to check that. Otherwise no grading, just Cluster Drewnet X v.7 with Standard 0,0,0,0 profile.

  • thanks nomad!!

    @fredfred27

    can you please tell me the name of the unscrewing tool?

  • @jazzroy: You may need to have the aperture blades cleaned, even if not visible there might be oil on the blades.

    Regarding the 85mm lenses: If you are lucky enough to own one of the rare Varisofts, getting the 85mm 1:2 at it's side may be useful. It is not so sought after as the 1.7 version for it's bokeh, but the Varisoft is more flexible in that aspect anyway. The 85 f2 is small, light and tack sharp WO.

  • I have the 58mm 1.4 and de-clicked it too! But diaphagram stays often stuck at wide open, what should I do to fix this? And.. what is the name of the instrument seen in the picture to unscrew lens rings? I need it so badly!! :)

  • Ok. Just my 2 cents here.
    I've used my Rokkor set a couple of times so I think I could share my thoughts about them:
    - MC W. Rokkor 24mm f2.8 - Small but solid built. Sharp WO. Decent bokeh. Short focus throw. Maybe the best 24mm I've tried.
    - MC W. Rokkor HH 35mm f1.8 - Built like a tank. Pretty sharp WO (totally usable). Even sharper when stopped down. Nice bokeh. Very long focus throw. I really like 35mm FOV in my GH2 so this is my best all-rounder.
    - MC Rokkor PG 50mm f1.4 - Almost identical to the 24mm build wise. A bit of glow WO, but maybe less than on FD or Ai. Stepping it down a bit (I have it stepless so even around 1.8) it gets really sharp. Bokeh is pretty nice. Long focus throw.
    -MC Rokkor PG 58mm f1.2 - Similar built quality than the 35mm, heavy and solid (pure metal and glass). Focus throw is not as long as on the others, but longer than on the 24mm. Not the sharpest guy in town... but, BUT its bokeh is sooo creamy. A real beauty.
    -Minolta 85mm f2.8 Varisoft - Solid built but not heavy at all for its size. Not razor sharp WO, but sharp enough and bokeh is beautiful just by closing the varisoft ring even just a bit. Long focus throw. The varisoft feature is a very rare and a nice thing to have.
    -Minolta 135mm f2.8 (4/4 version) - Solid but not heavy or too big. It has its own hood. Sharp WO. Pretty nice bokeh. Very long focus throw. VERY cheap.

    For wide land I use my Lumix 14mm that has a very similar color to the Rokkors, but I'm planning on getting Noktor 12mm since I really like the feel of manual glass for filmmaking.
    Overall color has a nice subtle warm tone and matches very well among all the set. The Tokina 28-70 2.6-2.8 looked bluer than Papa Smurf next to the Rokkors.

  • The 58mm has a very tight aperture ring and works well as a "stepless" model. You can also bend or dent the ring ever so slightly to make it firmer, but beware, if you bend it there is no going back.

    Here you can see the Rokkor 50, the Vivitar 55 and the Olly 45, pick which one you like the best.

  • Nice to read you fixed it, yeah! To increase friction add some scotchtape inside the aperture ring and it will stay at 1.4 and 16... Al

  • Kinda fix it. Not perfect stepless aperture but can get from 1.4 to 16 without much trouble. It works. Thanks for all the help! Btw, I've tested these Rokkors and are awesome.